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smallfry

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Posts posted by smallfry

  1. Right. Firstly the drill............and by that I mean the machine. Ordinary drills, either mains or cordless are percussion drills. They are NOT the same as hammer drills proper, or Rotary Hammers, as they are properly known They may well have a "hammer" setting, but they will only drill into relatively soft materials, such as brick, mortar, weak or soft concrete (not fully set) sandstone etc. They will struggle with hard materials such as hard concrete and stone materials, hard engineering bricks etc. You can tell by the fact that they have a regular chuck.

    For concrete and hard materials, you need a rotary hammer, which will always use SDS bits, and if you have a decent bit, it will sail through hard concrete (not the reinforcement steel though) I use Dewalt Extreme bits, which are good quality at a reasonable price.You will be amazed at the difference.

  2. I have a similar dilemma with what I want to do Lexus V8 or BMW M57 diesel.

    First you have to decide what you want, manual or auto.

    Bear in mind that if you have to have a ghastly stone age dull as ditchwater manual box, you will be wanting to buy a suitable flywheel and clutch, and it will likely be a dual mass jobbie, and by the time you have bought all that, it will be getting on for Compushift money............

    Other thing is, is you new engine fly by wire, so there is nothing to operate the hydraulic box kickdown cable. I know the box can be run without it connected, but it still has to adjusted to the correct length, but of course you will have no kickdown facility.

    If you want to retain a hydraulic box, I would think you would be better off finding a suitable 4HP22 from a petrol model that uses that or a similar engine which will have more suitable shift points, and swap the innards into the Land Rover case.   

  3. What we have is a length of 18 inch wide carpet fixed on one edge to the door frame horizontally.. The carpet rests on the top of the door "roll" and as the door is raised and lowered the carpet takes up the slack and keeps most of the drafts out. Works a treat and is almost free ! And whats more, you can choose your own colour and texture !

  4. I had the same problem with some hoodsticks from them a few years ago. Same problem with lack of response and inaction. Sent them back recorded delivery, but they denied they had received them. Eventually only got the money back as luckily I had paid by Barclaycard.

    I never heard from them again,

    I will never, ever deal with them again.

    You should do as others have said, and should at least get refunded, and I would NOT under any circumstances send it back at your own expense, AND if it is collected, get the drivers name (not just a signature) and the vehicle details.................just in case. And a photo.

  5. Good to know that some of you have been long term users. I do understand about availability though, although I have a supplier a couple miles away (52.9p ATM) I do not know how long that might last, as it does seem to me that it is becoming LESS popular here, rather than more, as it is on the Continent. Maybe it is just the hassle of supply, who knows.

    I have seen a couple of conversions that have looked like a five year old has done it, and I am sure that will do nothing for reliability OR reputation/recommendation. I was thinking of DIYing actually, and then getting it calibrated/tuned. I dont know how feasible this is yet.

    A cylinder deactivation system sounds a good idea though. I will look into that. Can Megasquirt do that ?

    I fear that Sheffield is correct though. The countdown is running. Mind you, I dont think it will be too many years before new cars are only available in electric. And have no steering wheels.

  6. Being fed up with problems with Rover V8s in general, I was/am going to repower my 90 CSW V8. I had a nearly new 200TDI 90 back in the day, and despite it being a quantum leap compared to the older diesels, I was always underwhelmed with it. Even after uprated turbo and tuning by Warwick Banks Handling. I took it out and sold it and converted to a 3.5 EfI engine (which I still have at 22336 miles) which I found much better in all respects (for me) except for fuel consumption. Having had many problems with later, bigger capacity engines, and sick of throwing money at them, I decided to fit a Lexus 1UZFE (same as Jad) and bought a complete car as a donor, but for one reason or another this has been on the back burner for about two years now, and the 90 has sat forlornly with no engine.

    Its about time something was done, so after large dose of practicality, the quest for better fuel consumption and some research, I decided to fit a BMW M57 3.0 diesel instead and have bought most of the bits to do this. Unfortunately though, during the last couple of weeks, it seems that various parties have a bee in their bonnets concerning diesel fuel and how it is going to kill us all before the end of next year, and as I am trying to build a vehicle that will hopefully last to the end of my driving days, I fear that diesel may ultimately either be banned completely, or made unusable by various prohibitive happiness taxes/charges. Especially as I live perilously close the existing London Emission Zone.

    As the vehicle as it stands is currently exempt,  I am now thinking about reverting to plan A, and to this end begs my question to you guys.............

    What is the reliability of LPG systems in the long term. I dont mean the engine itself, but the gas equipment, and how long should I reasonably expect a system to last ?

    It seems on the face of it a good solution to the consumption problem, but is it ?

    What experience do you guys have of it ? I am a petrol head at heart, and as I do have concerns about the costs of running a diesel engine, I am finding it difficult to choose between the two !

  7. On 20/10/2016 at 10:34 PM, ashtrans said:

    i am also not a great fan of the 'stall test' this involves putting it in drive, foot hard on the brake and then foot on full throttle, even for a few seconds anyone with any mechanical sympathy will cringe at the strain the engine and gearbox are put under and the heat generated is considerable even for a short period.

    the stall speed is important to a vehicle driving well, too high and it's all revs and no go, ie a waste of fuel, excessive revs, excessive noise and you rev past the early torque of a tuned engine,

    Thanks, Dave

    I have never been an admirer of the "stall test" either

    However, the diesel P38 is precisely the setup I am considering using, but with a BMW M57 engine instead of the M51, and as you have pointed out, I am concerned about revving right through the torque band, and whether the lock up clutch is up to the job.

    I do remember a couple of years ago that you offered one of the guys on here an adaptor plate to enable the use of the V8 converter housing with this engine, which would enable the use of alternative TCs. Did anything come of that ? I would have thought it would be a popular conversion.

  8. Is indeed an intermediate front cover with the crank driven oil pump. Pulley should be wide and flat as it runs on the BACK of a serpentine belt. Water pump also runs anti clockwise looking from the front, so if it has been run with Vee belts the water pump would not have been doing much ?????

    Cant tell you about the block without a photo of the side of the block

  9. I am trying to find the rated stall speeds of the torque converters fitted to the various Land/Range Rover ZF gearboxes, and try as I might, I cannot find any info.

    I am of course, aware that there is a small, medium, and large type, but are there only three stall speeds, or are there more. Also interested to know why the 4.6 P38 started out with the large converter, but reverted back to the earlier medium type, with presumably higher stall speed.

    I cannot seem to find any resource with this information available. anyone out there got any ideas ?

  10. Well, heres my tuppence worth..............

    As I DO NOT want a diesel, I am using an old Lexus 1UZFE, and although some of you might laugh at this, but it is for economy. Not only fuel economy, but economy of the conversion AND operation too.

    I would put money on it that I will never have to strip it down. Whereas with a used Rover engine it will likely have a f******d camshaft, followers and timing gear, plus rockers and shafts, and then if its a big bore unit it will be more than 50% likely that you will have block/liner problems too................just not worth it nowadays IMO

    Then, in my experience, if its highly tuned, likely it will not last THAT long before you have problems with it.

    And then theres the fuel consumption...................Again I would put money on it that I will get 30% or even 40% more MPG, and I would think that would go for the Jag unit too

  11. Can anyone help with this............

    I would like to know the length of the old Defender type input shaft on either a LT77 or "stubby" R380. The shorter 4 cylinder pre 300 Tdi type !

    From the front face of the gearbox housing to the end of the shaft please.

    Or does anyone have a broken gearbox they want to get rid of ? Its for an experiment with an engine swap.

    I COULD ring Ashcrofts, but I dont want to, as I am sure they get fed up with people after info and not buying anything..............(yet)

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