smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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Had the same problem a while ago. I used a brazing torch.......
Used a cheap/old allen key in the head of the bolt, and heated the key until red hot, and the heat transfer does the trick. They come out easily while a decent key while still warm.
No damage the the adaptor or the rear seal.
Not sure if you could get it hot enough with a ordinary blowtorch if you had one. Worth a try ?
Or maybe a gas powered soldering iron, or a high powered electric one ?
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When I wanted some, I tried Richards, and thought they were too expensive !
Got them from Designa Chassis for half of that !
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Ah. So you bought and engine that was already blown, and have never actually had it running properly then ?
It might have been running away with itself which caused it to overrev and blow in the first place. If it has over revved due to breather or turbo oil getting into the intake air, it may have reduced the piston rings to cheese, or scuffed the piston ring lands, allowing blowby (low compression)
As the pistons and valves have collided, it might have cracked or holed pistons, or possibly a cracked head. 300tdi heads are a bit fragile anyways.
If you are sure the timing is correct, I guess a compression test would be a good next step ?
On the other hand, the injection pump may have been "modified" by one of these people who know "all about diesel tuning". In which case, good luck with that !
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I would expect to get a genuine TRW one too.................
I would call this blatent misrepresentation and a complete rip off. There is no other way to describe it, and its inexcusable.
No doubt the seller will claim they were "helping you out" as they had no stock, so sent a substitute, BUT, they should have asked first before sending it. Not only that, but a "cheap" one from my local supplier is only £33 plus vat, so they have had your trousers down all round !
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Dont know where you guys are getting your info from ?
Like for like replacements for everything is fine and no problem at all. It is changes from the standard specification that affects the points system.
This only applies to the chassis and powertrain though (on a Land Rover) You can change the body for anything.
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I would be inclined to sort out the LT85. It is supposed to be stronger, and looking at the internals, it probably is, but it is and older design of gearbox, and as has been said, a bit more agricultural/less nice to use.............apparently
Having had a R380 lose its 4th and 5th gear on me, I am personally not over enamoured with them in any case, and do not consider them more "reliable" than the LT85 or the LT77S come to that.
The gearchange may.........or may not be "nicer" but they are known to be variable in that respect, whereas IMO the LT85 is fine, but cannot be rushed. It depends on your driving style I guess.
If you DO go down the R380 or the LT77S route, get the box complete with bellhousing from a V8 Disco 1 as it will bolt straight up. You may need Defender type gearbox brackets though, TBH I cannot remember
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The guys are right. Your current in tank pump will be low pressure. The RR classic pump is a straight forward fit and LOOKS more or less identical EXCEPT that it will need extending slightly to reach the bottom of the Defender tank.
Its dead easy to do. IIRC even the electrical connector is the same. Its part number PRC8318
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Ok maybe I was having a rant over nothing, that is how dealers work. Buy it and sell it for more.
At the time I expected it to go for around £12.000 which is much than I can afford at the moment. But if I had even thought it would go for £7000 I could have managed to get that sort of money. O well that's life.
I will get my defender one day.
Sorry Chris, I read my post again and it sort of comes across as a personal attack..................
It isnt, and wasnt meant to be !
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Sorry but I dont understand what the problem is.....................
This is how ALL business works. If it didnt, we would ALL be out of a job. Even those in cushy public sector jobs eventually.
You had the opportunity to buy the vehicle, but didn't. You could have done what they are doing. Would you sell me your current vehicle for half of what its worth ? Of course you wouldnt, that would be stupid in the extreme.
What exactly IS anything worth ? Its worth what someone is prepared to pay for it, and Its all about perceived value. Thats why a a BMW is apparently WORTH more than a Vauxhall for example. It isnt, but it is perceived to be........Like the Emperors new clothes.
Everyone wants the stuff they need/want for as little as possible, but on the other hand want as much money as possible for as little work as possible, but sadly it doesnt always work out like this in life. Some people are luckier than others, or have made better life choices. If this were not so, we would ALL be living in big houses, and have a boat, helicopter etc etc.
Lets face it, Land Rover Defenders are carp, I should know, I have had enough of them, and they are NOT worth the prices asked or paid, but still we buy them. I couldnt have afforded to buy it either (at the first sale price) but if I had WANTED it enough, I would have found the money from somewhere if it were possible.
At the end of the day, you either want it, or you dont..............................
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Sounds like the dump valve not working. It depressurises the pipe between the pump and the tank when pressure is reached. If this pipe is pressurised and the motor tries to start it will prevent it doing so...................unless it is a massively powerful motor.
Remove or just disconnect the pipe between the tank and the pump, and see if it starts and runs then...............
If it does, it will be the on/off switch/valve assy. On cheaper compressors this will be a black box with a red pull up for on, push down for off button.
The motor WILL make a humming noise when it is held back. It will also heat up and burn out the windings if left in a stalled condition. may or may not blow the capacitors.
Might be a capacitor, but I would check the switch assy first
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Is it possible to get a good paint finish on a galvanised bulkhead on the bits that show?
Yes absolutely. Provided the galvanizing has been done well.
Unless you are after a mirror finish worthy of a show winning custom car, I doubt if anyone would even notice !
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I saw Ashtree at Billing (or was it Peterborough) last year. .................
I couldnt believe how cr*p the welding and standard of work was on the items they were showing, and this was a SHOW !
I have has at least ten bulkeads done over the years, and yes, they do ripple on the flat surfaces, and yes, you will get galv in threads etc, and the bulkhead "legs" close up, which will need stretcthing to fit the chassis, but other than that it is not worth NOT having it done.
The key for a good galv finish is to insist on "slow withdrawal" which will minimise big blobs and "icicles"
No way would I use Ashtree though. Not from what I have seen
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I have a 3.5 EFi engine which I have owned for many years (I can prove it too) which has only done 22336 miles from new.
It has been completely cleaned and freshened up with new parts and looks like a new unit.
I was saving it for a rainy day, but I probably will not use it now for mainly time reasons
I could build your carbs onto it if needed.
Let me know if you are interested
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Makes a racket too. I would not use one on anything except series roadsprings or a battleship.
You are welcome to borrow mine to see how you get on before you decide not to buy one !
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20 years ago my favourite Series 3 SWB I ran exactly that setup. Standard gearbox with overdrive, No mileage 3.5 EFI. (I still have the engine) Standard Series radiator with electric fan. Milner conversions oil filter housing and conversion ring. Stage one front axle with the big brakes and free wheeling hubs, 3.54 diffs, and BFG 750-16 Trac edge tyres.
Worked a treat with no problems at all except it kept breaking rear halfshafts at the diff end. Could also tow a loaded car transporter trailer with no problems either.
Could also do 20 mpg if wanted, and 24 mpg if I tried really hard. Or 8 mpg if I used the performance.
Worked well on the road in all conditions as far as I remember with no drawbacks apart from the whining gearbox/overdrive
A bit high geared off road in high , but then thats what low box is for !
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In line with Daan, I used a 200 Tdi LH wing and a 300Tdi RH wing with just the "intake" plastic grilles installed with nothing behind them. Making them vent grilles instead. With the 3.5 Efi fitted at the time, the electric fan hardly ever came on. Even in traffic.
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Double roof it ? This is what they do in SE Asian countries. The outer roof shades the one underneath, and if the roof is pitched, it encourages convection too which pulls air between the two and helps keep the temperature down.
Same principal as the old Land Rover safari roof
Cant do much about the ambient air outside though.....................
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A whole sentence disappeared off me post.................
Late 3.9 engines (late 93 on) have serpentine fronts with the new oil pump but still have a distributor. Oil filter points forward and downward as per earlier engines.
And another thing I have observed over the years, is that it would appear that running the larger bore engines
on single point LPG systems tends to aggravate the liner problems..................
Probably due to poor setup ?
As Mr Bowie rightly says, its all a question of budget and how much you are prepared to throw at it !
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All the engines will take a manual RR/Disco flywheel and clutch, but be warned, they might not fit inside your bellhousing. It depends on what you use............
All 4.0 and 4.6 have a serpentine front but a slightly different arrangement with the front cover and oil pickup. Oil filter points straight down. Also has a different sump. No distributor.
Only late RR classic and Disco 1 had the "standalone" Hotwire system. P38 and Disco 2 did not.
ALL the bigger bore engines can suffer liner problems, with the 4.6 seemingly the worst, then the 4.0, and then the 3.9/4.2.
However, I have never had a 4.6 or a 4.0 personally, but all three 3.9s I have had , failed miserably in this respect. I am building another block up ATM which has pressure tested OK, but I am not filled with confidence in it, even though it will only be a temporary fitment.
If I were you I would stick with a 3.5, and the money you will save on NOT having to have top hat liners fitted, you can spend on Megasquirt if you must.
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Most repair centres nowadays are run by insurers. They will insist that a vehicle is repaired by one of their "recommended" repairers, but this invariably means one of their own.............however, they cant force to to take it there, but they will will make it quite diffucult if you don't !
Unless it is a franchised dealer for that particular make, they will ALWAYS use non genuine or used stuff if available !
They are there to minimise the insurers losses, and buying in and using genuine parts is NOT going to achieve this. Remember that insurers are a business and want to make as much profit as they can. They are NOT a charity service !
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BMW six ? With the P38 2.5 DSE bellhousing and gearbox. Just like the S.A Defender of a few years ago....................
Why no LPG though Nigel ? I thought that was a big thing in Holland.................
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I use Fairy Powerspray to clean a lot of vehicle parts, and overall I have found it works really well. I know some of you guys out there use it too.
I picked up some more the other day, but when I got home and used it, I discovered that it seemed very runny compared to usual, and also, and more importantly, that it was almost entirely ineffectual. So much so that I tried another bottle as I thought that there was something wrong with it. I was only then that I noticed the label was different to the original (pictured left) stating that it was low viscocity and citrus scented.
It seems that they have changed the formula for the worst, so it seems to have gone the way of creosote and paint stripper......................I.E. Useless
So if you come across the stuff with the label on the right, dont bother. It may as well be water for what good it is.
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As AMB has pointed out...........what else CAN'T you see ? That and the fact that they would send them out like this would worry me.
Hoping you will say nothing and accept them, and saving themselves some money ?
I would just want a refund. Not replacement.
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Just stick an "ON TOW" sign in the back window......................
Bl**dy hell, what will the fun police think of next to stop you doing anything ?
I did this with a Bedford HA van years ago and it worked a treat, Mind you, to buy a trailer back then was relatively expensive IIRC, and this was a far cheaper option !
8 point DVLA radically altered vehicle query
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
This is all rather ridiculous and farcical. If you take these new rules "as read" it means that you cannot change anything at all.
So if, for instance, you have welded on some alternative engine mounts, or just a bracket for an exhaust, then you have modified the chassis and therefore must have the vehicle crushed or Q plated.
If you have a Richards or Designa chassis........i.e. four plates welded at the corners to form the chassis rails, then this is NOT the original type or specification, so therefore also should fall foul of the rules.
All of which makes most of you dirty rotten crims. Except me of course
Sadly it would appear that its all down to how an inspecting "officer" interprets those rules on the day, and that is dangerous territory, when it appears that the rules are so ambiguous. There should be NO grey areas