smallfry

I would just take the whole front wing off. Bit of a bummer if you faff around and cannot get at the subject properly. I would probably take the door off too. Just makes access soooooo much easier.

Check the in tank fuel pump and filter. Might not be getting enough fuel pressure.

Thread is very fine and easy to cross thread. They will normally screw in with fingers. Have you got the O ring on it ?

Rear Differential mounts ? That always used to be a favourite.

I think the P38 would be a joy to work on, compared to these. Apart from the electrical system. You are welcome to that ! I see that some specialists are asking this for an equally rotten cab ! In truth I don't want to sell it ATM because its useful, despite being top heavy. Once we have finished building, I probably will, because the attendant costs are more than I can bear these days.

I am being asked to sell it at least once a month. Best offer yet has been £4000. If you look carefully, you will see the broom handle holding the RH door shut. The A post is rotten and will fall off as its only held by the bottom hinge. For now. Floor is non existent in the rear tipping body, but thats no real problem. I really need to be able to tip the cab, but something will have to be made. I suppose when its running, it can lift its own cab off. I am only doing the battery leads because the originals have been cut, when the Caravan Utilising Nomadic TypeS helped themselves to the battery yet again. So they are now too short. Have to make another battery carrier too, as that was destroyed in the process.

I couldn't. I would never be able to sleep at night, knowing the hassle and expense it would give you. Besides, the cost of importing it would make it up to £750.

Not if you have to do any work on it. Everything is a nightmare to get at, unless you are a midget contortionist with a three year old child size hands with superhuman grip. Absolutely everything weighs a LOT and will easily do your back if you are not careful. You would not want to drive it any distance either, although Father in Law used to drive it to Hull from Kent occasionally. It is a useful thing though. When its working, but I just don't make a lot of use of it.

Would that be hard or softwood ? Its a 1972 406. I dont know what the "U" model is. It all works OK, apart from oil smoke, but needs a lot of work on the cab as its battered and rusty. Its got the HIAB obviously, and rear PTO with three point linkage. Front and rear hydraulics and three way tipping. However, its needs a lot of tidying, but I just don't have the time.

Good tip about the Vaseline. I will mask the terminal and the PVC jacket, so it just goes into the join, then apply the heat shrink.

Sawdust or banana skins for the gearbox ? I have soldered them now ! But might get one of those crimps for good measure. Got to get some advesive lined heat shrink sleeving now. Is there some sort of formula to get the correct size ?

What about a box with a top hat flange round the top, like the classic Mini battery box, if you are familiar, dropped into the top of the rear wheelarch near the bulkhead ? The 109 spare wheel well fits like this. Can have a lid on it and no unsightly and leaky ill fitting doors in the side panels.

Is that so the terminals slip off easier ?

I have just bought some "High Temp" welding cable, and had a flash of perspiration for the sleeving ! The stuff they do for Webasto/ Eberspacher exhausts . Supposed to be good for 500 degrees C. Cable runs about 2 1/2 inches from the exhaust downpipe, and its non turbo, so hopefully will be enough. Now for the next challenge. Soldering the terminals on without melting the PVC jacket !

Are you sure its not more to do with looks ? And dress sense ?

Don't believe it. My Brother in Law went to Huddersfield yesterday ! He would have collected it no problem. Dropped my non fitting engine adaptor kit back to Ashcrofts on the way up the M1 ! Thats got to be the way to go. If you can afford it. Eeek ! Should get a fair bit back on your existing one though, Unless you want to keep it "just in case"

This is true. Even the experts dont know, or have tried everything. I am having a similar issue with a body panel for my van, the manufacturer is saying that mine is different to all the others, or it has had accident damage (which it hasn't)

Is it for water or warm air ? What about in one of the rear wheel arches next to the bulkhead, and make a box to cover it.

The original has a woven, probably asbestos sleeve around it next to the downpipe I am going to get something similar or use the left over header binding tape I have, but I am more concerned about the cable insulation material for now.

I need to replace some battery to starter cable on this useless Unimog. Why anyone loves them is beyond me. Everything is a PIA. Anyway, the cable runs stupidly close to the exhaust downpipe, and there is no real way to re route it, bearing in mind the cab tips. The cable is hefty at 95mm2 and the fifty year old original is very stiff. It seems most cable you can buy now at "sensible" money, is multi strand flexible stuff. You can get either PVC or rubber coated, but what will be best ? Most cable suppliers list rubber covered cables for pond, tools, and outdoor use. What do you guys think ?

As the gearchange mechanism is more or less the same, I can only think it will be the selector shaft diameter thats possibly different.

I thought that adaptor would work with an LT77, not sure though. I also thought you had an R380 diesel box !

I don't see the problem. This is not directed at anyone at all, just how I see it. The Grenadier is a car, just like the new Defender is a car. If you choose to dump tools and some bricks in the back and use it as a commercial, or as a company car, that is your choice. Unfortunately you have to pay the outrageous tax, again your choice. For a commercial, it should have two (or three) seats in the front, with a full length rear load floor, no windows in the sides, and no facility for fitting any seats in the rear, a bulkhead and negligible trim in the back, with an option of rear door, or tailgate and "catflap". Either that or be a pickup. Then pay a bit less outrageous tax, and the appropriate BIK for either. You could then pimp it up as you wish. Ineos probably do not want to sell a full commercial, because there would be less money in it, as most sales would be commercial, and there must be a price differential. It grates on me that I have to pay commercial RFL for my three vans. I do not run any sort of business, or use them for work purposes. But its my choice, as the vans are more use to me than a car.

I have a couple wood chisels which are easy to hold and control, but I have taken off the sharp corners so they don't dig in. Seem to work well, but no good for going round corners.

Thanks for the concise symptom timeline. Helps a lot. It is quite a slow leak then. But I would have thought you would still see some evidence. What is the climate like where you are, as I wonder if such a small amount of fluid would evaporate if it is hot there ? Or washed away with heavy warm rain ? It looks like it is a result of something you or a mechanic has done, and as you had a leak at one of the pipe unions, I would look closely there. Possibly the metal feed pipe has fractured at the flare which you will not see unless it is disconnected ? The fluid leak could be in the form of a fine spray, directed away from the vehicle or onto the exhaust, which would cause it to simply vanish ?. A frustrating one for sure !