Orange

Apologies for the late notice, but the decision has been made between the organisers and the land owners to cancel this weekends event at Uplands Coppice due to the condition of the site following the ongoing bad weather in the area. We will, of course, keep you all posted on any decisions to rearrange this round if it is possible without getting too close to the next. The decision has been left as long as possible in order to gauge the real condition of the site as close to the event as possible, but with the weather we've had and the forecast as it is, we have no choice but to cancel. Please pass this message on to anyone who is planning to come, but doesn't frequent these forums... A message will be sent round to all registered competitors shortly... Cheers Adrian

Apologies for the late notice, but the decision has been made between the organisers and the land owners to cancel this weekends event due to the condition of the site following the ongoing bad weather in the area. We will, of course, keep you all posted on any decisions to rearrange this round if it is possible without getting too close to the next.

For anyone using the AWDC Yellow booklet for information, the postcode is wrong!! Any problems, give me a shout on 07788 721226, or Lucy on the mobile number above... See you Saturday/Sunday! Oh, and Chris, don't worry about the tow vehicle/trailer, the beauty of this series is that you are road legal,mso just drive there and back..... It'll be an experience!!

Had recaros in my old HT 90. Fitted the Mudstuff bar and it was just what the doctor ordered (I'm 6'3" with a fairly substantial build). I'd go for that as it'll task a couple of hours to do and doesn't involve completely hacking the bulkhead apart. The other bonus is that you still end up with a bulkhead so you don't lose stuff under the seats from the load bay... HTH

Comes as a complete unit, I'm afraid, but the good news is that it's a plug and play situation as far as I know... No need to get it programmed... If you want a 3-pin version, I have a used one on the shelf (bought before I knew mine had a 2-pin one!!) which could find its way to you in a jiffy bag. It's not overly clean but it works and would be cheaper than a new one to try out your theory... Cheers Adrian

Last I heard Chris was still waiting to finish welding his roll cage together... But don't worry, I expect he'll do that on Sunday morning before he fits his winch ropes, bleeds the brakes, bleeds the clutch, rewires the 24v system............ :-D See you Saturday!

All go as far as I'm concerned... Think Paul and Lucy are a bit under the cosh at work at the mo... Feel free to add some banter!!

Where is it? Does it move under its own steam? Presume it needs to be delivered to you in Devises? When does it need to be done? All information that may get you a more helpful response from a forum full of people with unmentioned contacts and additional hobbies... Copied this next bit out of a signature from one of my other frequent forums...

GULP........ Is that the one with the stainless steel angle they cast in to the edge?? I'm sure they have improved it since I last had dealings with it and I guess they don't advertise the bad points/failed installations... Hope the house isn't on it, too.......

The spacing from the edge of the windscreen to the rear of the snorkel is defined by the bracket you use to attach it... You could quite easily make up a shallower one so that it sits closer, however, you will need to be careful of the edge of the bonnet. As you rightly suggest, the closer you get to the windscreen, the less space there is to fit the snorkel between the edge of the bonnet and the return on the wing without causing yourself issues with chaffing when opening the bonnet... If you look at eBay item 310379756334, this is how snugly it is designed to fit on all the vehicles, including the Defender...

Fit an Albright..... Much more reliable than a solenoid pack and rarely needs getting at! If it does, it's 2 screws and the whole thing is out (if you leave a bit of slack on the cables)... Alternatively, I had a solenoid pack on the bulkhead behind the passenger seat and one on the front of the seat box in the passenger footwell. Both out of harms way and if you use 35mm^2 cable, you shouldn't have an issue with most winches. (mine were 8274 and TDS with no power loss due to length of cables) I now run 2 albrights on the end of the winch motors (8274 twin) on the front and they survived 2 seasons of competing without missing a beat... My rear Albright is on the inside of the tub and it's the same story...

Southdown ones just go straight through the top of the wing, so just a case of drilling the hole further forward... The cage tube should be formed to the same angle as the windscreen/bulkhead, so the tube is a direct match. Southdown also sell brackets to suit a cage mounting, rather than screwing to the windscreen surround... Have a look at eBay item 120705535505 - should give you a few clues... Safari style ones can also be made to fit with some careful additional cutting of the existing hole in the side of the wing. Mine fitted here and you couldn't see the modification or any of the cut-out. I wouldn't recommend them for anything other than a bit of light laning and P&P, though... They are a bit fragile and stick out further than the cage, so tend to be very vulnerable in amongst the trees...

Probably best to give Lucy a ring at Challenger to discuss...

So... How was it for everyone?? Damp, seemed to be a theme for the whole weekend, but I still had a smile on my face! Saw some excellent driving today from a lot of people and also a lot of kahunas from some given the conditions which turned some challenging stuff into madness!! Missed the results, so I've no idea who came where, but well done to all... See you at Mud Monsters in May.

See here... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=74657

Clyro as the later amendment thread confirms...

This could all get a bit complicated as there are 4 people to discuss... I'm in Sittingbourne, don't mind lending a hand as I need to get to Slindon, West Sussex next Saturday... Questions... Is the existing holder of said roof rack able to meet me at, say, Ashford junction on the M20? What time is Ed leaving on Saturday? Steve... Can I suggest you start a PM between all of us so that we can discuss rather than cluttering up the forum... Cheers Adrian

So, how about a combination of the 2 ideas that you already have... 2" receiver bolted to the towbar mounting points behind the rear bumper - this would take the main load down to a structural part of the car... As pictured... Or a development of that idea. You could then use the adapted spare wheel mount as a 'restraint' to stop the rack tipping away from the rear door when it is loaded with bikes. This would be a relatively simple tube/box fabrication job and wouldn't cost the earth to make. It would mean cutting your bumper to allow the receiver through, but I don't think it would be the end of the world... You could even just make a plate to mount a bracket behind the standard bumper, then just drill 4 holes through it to line up and the receiver would then become removable, so you don't clout your knee on it when you are using the boot in normal day-to-day activities... I seem to remember that the DiscoParts HD rear bumper had a bracket like this so that a NATO hitch could be fitted... In fact... http://www.overland-rovers.com/ralphs-pages/layout/vehicle-modifications/125-rear-recovery-socket.html Should show you the sort of thing I am eluding to... HTH Adrian

How would you feel about a slight flip in the location of the 'X'? My suggestion would be... Wait for it... Drum roll, please... Prot-X!!! Yes, I know, not very imaginative, but it would then give you scope for two-word products: Prot-X Pedal Prot-X Brake Etc, etc...

There is a good site at The Brotherswater Inn. Located behind a pub which has good beer and food on offer. Prices were pretty reasonable and it wasn't too busy when I used it for a week in June... Try here: http://www.sykeside.co.uk/ Facilities were cleaned twice a day and never too busy, so always had plenty of hot water. They also offer bunk houses if you'd rather do it that way... HTH Adrian

Simple as the title, really. I'm looking to upgrade the map on my 110 to a slightly more aggressive, but fuel economic one, but am struggling to find any information... I have happened across a Discovery 2 NNN ecu which, from my recollection is flashable, just like the Defender ones, however, can I use it in a Defender, given that I am replacing the 'running' information with a Defender version that from a supplier of performance upgrades?? I'm guessing that my luck will not be in and that there will be other parts of the programme that will also need to be overwritten... Any clues?? TIA Adrian

I went for re-core. Used my existing metal tanks and has the fins made deeper and more widely spaced to make it easier to clean after being dunked in the mud. Still cost less that a new OEM rad. If I was to buy new, I would give Bearmach a call. Have fitted a couple to other 300tdis without issues...

Here's a good example... Roverdrive (makers of overdrives for Land Rover vehicles) have had to completely rebrand their company due to this latest outbreak of what can only be described as nonsense... Taken from the (now) Global Roamer Corporation website: Welcome to the GLOBAL ROAMER CORPORATION website. We have changed our name from Roverdrive Gear Corporation, at the insistence of the Land Rover Company, who will not allow the consecutive use of the letters R-O-V-E-R related to any automotive product!

I've gone for the Terrafirma All Terrain shocks in standard length. They seem to offer the best balance between performance and value.

Cheers Mike. That seems a little more complete.