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viorelluta

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About viorelluta

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  1. My FL2 does not have the eco function, I wonder if this part is identical? i I drive a company VW Passat with start/stop function. First thing I do, after turning the engine on, is to turn this function off - I find it annoying and I don't think it really save fuel. Not to mention how fun it is when you have 35 degrees outside and it cuts the a/c to half...
  2. I do own a FL2 and no flashing appears when cornering, regardless the situation. EBA means actually "emergency braking assist" and it seems to brake harder when the car speed is high, to help shortening the braking distance. Please read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emergency_Brake_Assist From what I read about EBA, when the EBA light flashes it's either a malfunction (somewhere in the braking system) or you may driving too fast and the car suggests that EBA may become active. But it's just based on what I read, again, my car doesn't do this. viorel
  3. I see. You would not expect to have such problems so soon. Have you been towing, or off-roading? Here in Bucharest a major reason for replacing the clutch before 50k km is the traffic - too many traffic jams, which lead to premature wear. was it covered by warranty? Good luck Viorel
  4. Hi, have you found the cause? i am interested as I also have a fl2... maybe something happened with the haldex coupling? (hopefully not...) thanks viorel
  5. Hello, I have also owned a FL1 for 3 years and I have a FL2 since one year and a half. FL1 was OK and I loved it (well, in my case the 1.8 petrol gave me headaches), but I could not say that FL2 isn't (far) better than FL1. May I ask you what part of the FL1 is better?? 'cause I'm really surprised to hear this. viorel
  6. I am not a mechanical engineer, but I guess at 200k km the compression may be a problem for diesels. Have you checked it? What oil do you use?
  7. If I were you, I would be rather worry about the second original key (the one missing)... where is it, and who could use it to open your car? You should visit a dealer, who should be able to delete that one from your car's memory. The key previously used for some other car should normally work if programmed to your car, as it is basically a RFID chip which, even if stores some info regarding the history (such as "it was/was not programmed"), can also be re-programmed. Both operations need special tools, available at the authorised dealers (hopefully :-) ) Viorel
  8. ... I forgot to ask you what is the outside temperature when the engine don't start, a certain delay is normal.
  9. hi, What is the mileage of your engine? I think there are many possible reasons, please check this page: http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=80853 I guess you need a proper diagnosis before replacing anything else. Please let us know what was the problem, once successfully solved. good luck viorel
  10. Indeed, modern technology can keep you in the rain sometimes... I found the answer on the net: I can either get a new key, or open the fob using a sharp knife then replace the battery, which is a rechargeable coin-shape Panasonic battery. (Of course, this is possible only if you got the right tool, as the battery is soldered on the PCB). Meanwhile I will try to keep in mind to use the car at least once a week, and to rotate the keys... V.
  11. Hi all, I knew that the FL2 keys (keyfobs) are recharged when driving, however I was unpleasantly surprised when, after a 3 weeks in garage, I could not open the car. I have tried with the 2nd key, but of course this dind't work either, actually was staying in a closet for more than 6 months, so this was quite normal (?!). After talking to the dealer, I managed to open the car with the mechanical key. I think other owners should be aware that you must rotate the key clockwise (it may be written in the manual, but if the manual is not t hand, or it is in the car...) AND you need to rotate it pretty hard (I thought that the key would break, but it didn't). Once the car is opened, the alarm starts but it stops once you insert the keyfob in its place. As you may imagine, the procedure takes time - I wonder what happens if you stand in the rain, or if you have an emergency?! The real problem is that you never know: - if the battery needs charging - for how long you need to charge it. It seems there is no alternative way to charge it, nor to replace the battery! If some of you guys know otherwise, please let me know! Thank you Viorel
  12. Hello, As a principle, any engine that wouldn't start is a malfunction :-). My FL2 has seen minus 25 last winter and minus 12 this winter; indeed there is some delay when starting, but limited to a few seconds. Once I had to press again the start. I have surfed a little and found that diesels not starting when cold usually indicate a problem with the glow plugs - one, or more of them is/are burned (I understand they're similar to incandescent bulbs...), or their power circuit has some problems. So a first step would be to check the glow plugs and replace them if necessary. If you still use the original battery you may need to replace them (it is almost 4 years old, as I understand). But first check the plugs. I won't buy any alternative starting procedures than the normal ones! Viorel
  13. all suggestions are valid for V6 also
  14. I have surfed a little bit, I found that: - diesels burn more than petrol engines (people say that because of compression, turbo, etc - no specialists around, I think) - VW "pumpe-duse" (TDI) engines burn more oil than other diesels (such as common-rails) - for a perfectly functional diesel engine, oil consumption up to 1 liter/1000km is considered "normal" - you can achieve better figures if you limit the speed (actually, the revs - rpm value) - e.g. 3000rpm would be better than 4000rpm viorel
  15. Hello, My FL2 is only 1yo and about 16k km (10k miles). I think you had bad luck with the paint (btw, my old FL1 had 6 years when I sold it and the paint was perfect). Regarding the oil: most of the engines "drink" oil, especially VW (German) ones - I can give you a number of particular examples. I am pretty sure that VW considers a "normal consupmtion" a quantity of 0,6 liters of oil per 1,000km (I can't convert it in mpg :-) ). and this IS official. Never heard of a similar figure from LR, though. But taking into consideration that the 2.2TD4 is a PSA engine, I would not worry - they're really good in Diesel engines. good luck Viorel
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