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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. I have had the Britpart upgrade kit fitted for a few years too without issue. My Lucas 65a munched belts whereas the blue box item has required none.
  2. When you take off the old cable covers below the drip rail it’ll become obvious. The round cable exit just above the bell housing becomes defunct as all fusebox wiring goes through the top two large grommets.
  3. Don’t think you can really get around the glow plugs issue. If you’ve replaced the barrel (I think you asked about that in another thread) then you don’t have the “hold” option, only way is to fit an ignition triggered timer relay for the plugs. The large grommets fit in the bulkhead apertures and have the appropriate holes for the heater Bowden cables, a squirt of wd40 helps the grommets ease in.
  4. Yes, you’ve found the 4 HT style glow plug connectors on the engine loom, basically defunct in relation to the tdi. Engine loom wise there’s very little to use...starter trigger, oil pressure switch, alternator tell-tale were the only compatible inputs/outputs. Iirc I didn’t use the td5 loom for the temp sender either.
  5. And are ecu controlled. You’ll need to make up a loom to run tdi glow plugs
  6. I’ll ask the obvious first...does it have full central locking and did it work prior to the rebuild? If so, does pushing the door button down (doors closed) actuate the central locking solenoids? Check the door wiring looms are plugged fully home, if the basic locking system is working then check the wiring from the 10AS or if you’ve got access to a code reader do a diagnostic on it to ensure it’s configured accordingly. It’s a small internal relay that triggers the locking so that may have an issue. Multimeter and a wiring diagram and check for power and earths (it’s a defender after all!!) Also a good idea to give the relevant fuse a clean and a wiggle! The dash LED is also handy for letting you know if there’s a pin switch issue, it’ll be solid red if it thinks there’s a door still open
  7. As far as I know you won’t get a Dixon bate style detachable/drop plate style NAS step. You can get a step with the 2” receiver style box which will allow you to swap attachments. I did read somewhere recently that defenderupgrades are selling fully UK towing certified NAS steps so may be worth dropping them an email.
  8. Better to measure to the rim (assuming it’s the same as the front). Different tyres, pressure, condition (as mentioned) and load may cause the sidewall to flex differently from the front.
  9. Standard boosts are et35 if memory serves, going to an et8 will give you 27mm of movement towards the outer arch. My boosts on 265/75 have a 30mm spacer giving the equivalent of an et5 (the spacer effectively moves the mounting face to almost the centre of the wheel) ET0 and ET10 are quite common offsets in aftermarket modulars/alloys.
  10. Ynn000332 lists as a td5 130 loom so probably won’t have rear tailgate wiring. The black oval plug with the purple/white wires is for the fuel pump and sender unit. A plug-n-play 7-pin towbar loom is about £40
  11. Yes, the large grey plug with orange insert is for the towing elecs . Wiper electrics will be dependent on which loom you have. If it’s configured for it then you should have a natural coloured plug along with the nsr light plugs. This does the wiper/wash functions, oddly enough the remote central locking for the tail door (again if configured) comes from the roof part of the loom.
  12. Defenderupgrades are advertising full functionality with puma dash instruments on td5/tdi equipped vehicles. No prices listed, just a "contact for info" page
  13. Nicely done. FYI the reason the LED is “solid” and not flashing is down to the alarm thinking the doors are open (pin switches) if you have the immobiliser activated (as indicated on the dash panel) then you’ll need the pick up ring for around the ignition barrel so that the fob can disable the immobiliser when in close enough proximity. With regards to the plugs above, they are different pin/plug arrangements so won’t interchange as the guide slots are in different orientations iirc...making them different colours just makes it easier to identify.
  14. Not just that simple, if you have the bulkhead loom part number it will tell you the spec of the vehicle it came from. There are numerous permutations, from basic to fully loaded XS spec.
  15. As above for the under seat relays. And yes, the brown one on the main fuse panel does the alarm/sounder
  16. without seeing the wire feeds... yellow main ignition relay or cooling fan black either ABS or glow plug depends on loom
  17. The fob doesn't have a red light, just two buttons. Do you have the td5 clocks? These have the alarm indicator led built into the speedo so would show what it's doing. This won't be an easy thing to bench test as it reads inputs for the pin switches (doors and bonnet) and will signal a circuit fault. It doesn't need the power sounder fitted as it will activate the horn.
  18. Should do, not all 10AS are configured the same way though. Mine has full activation for immobiliser, interior sensors, pin switches and central locking. Depends on what spec of vehicle the unit came from, some don't have the internal relay for the locking but this can be retrofitted.
  19. I get between 25 and 30 on the 90 200tdi. Running 265/75 BFG MT. and a standard 1.41 transfer box with roof rack/winch&bumper and a shedload if sound deadening. That’s mainly small runs, on a 30 mile trip to Glasgow it’s better unless you chase it on. It really just likes sitting about 60, it’s just shy of 3000rpm at 70.
  20. If you get busy with some card and a ruler you can knock up a template so they clip in factory style.... Worked out fine on my 200 wings.
  21. Yes, it needs the AS10 unit installed (and the interior light activated using a suitable diagnostic tool)
  22. Just the standard one...the original is on 254k so it's lasted well, currently stripped for rebuild so clutch etc being done as part of the restoration.
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