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Scotts90

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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. I pass the Racetech fifth-wheel equipped 90s quite often, they are used for transporting the media equipment for the horse racing events. The same ones as in the link posted by Maverik....they have puma models now though.
  2. If you need something better let me know and I'll whip the panel off and get a better pic tomorrow
  3. Ok, not the best pics in the world .... Sprung wire on lower side of radio aperture Left hand clip next to window switch Right hand clip next to window switch
  4. Are you referring to the wire retainers at the head unit aperture? If so I'll try and get a pic when I get home, no radio fitted so should be able to stick the phone in for a pic.
  5. Hmmm in S mode on my d4 I did think that it held the gears...I vaguely remember something about 8 seconds elapsing before reverting to full auto. The Evoque has a user selectable option for paddle use only in S and over rides the auto function unless your being totally stupid. It does away with the annoying change up when you nudge a paddle accidentally in full auto mode too. Still think the ZF 8 is superior to the 9 in the evoque though.
  6. Did you try it in S mode? Altered the profile in mine to a more aggressive map, changing up later and holding onto gears until the red line. Didn't do the mpg any favours tho...
  7. Have you knocked the wire off the starter solenoid when changing the downpipe? Do you get ign/warning lights on the dash?
  8. My 51 and 03 td5 D2s both did about 20 around town, average was 23-25 and maybe just scraped 30 on a long run. Both 7 seaters/rear air and manual.
  9. I'll get his thoughts on Wednesday and let you know how he rates it
  10. One of my mates has a huge US Pro rollcab and top box, it's about 2m high and the same wide. He replaced his snap-on rollcab with this with some of his redundancy cash. It is exceedingly well finished (it's a blue one lol) and I must say I have tool box envy...his previous employer supplied nothing but the best in tooling. The service cart is a great idea....I tend to have the tools "in use" on a piece of carpet to drag around the vehicle...which is fine until you start tripping over them
  11. All comes down to prep and patience. I took time ensuring the visible areas (a-pillars and bulkhead corners) were as smooth as possible. A few coats of primer followed by a few layers of paint soon smooths the finish. My paint looks better than our 110s non-galv bulkhead finish
  12. Haha lol. I'll update if and when it goes wrong...
  13. No, the windscreen mount area was unaffected, just the crash pad part above it. From what I can tell it got into all the nooks and crannies. There were pools of zinc from underneath the double skin area in the footwell and I didn't find any missed patches
  14. Photographic evidence of the car in-situ in prior to recovery would be a must...if it's lying in a ditch with apparent damage to only one area then it would be reasonable to assume that the recovery agent should have the necessary skills, equipment and technique to recover the vehicle without further damages. If the recovery required two winches for removal then I'm sure this cost would pass on to the insurer? Unfortunately taking pics etc is normally the furthest thing from your mind after an incident but there are normally others on site with camera phones at the ready to document your misery. The RRS "ruined" in the ford recovery would most certainly have been an economic write off due to water damage but no doubt completely salvageable.
  15. These are pics of mine just fresh from the galvanisers You can just about make out the twist on the footwells. These straighten out no problem after fitting the floor plates. The inner surface (behind the dash panel) became slightly wavy but didn't affect dash fitment. The top panel to which the crash pad fixes also distorted a little but easily straightened by hand and the crash pad/air vents refitted with no issues. I drilled holes where I wanted extra rivnuts as well as some extra drain holes on the box section under the drip tray. My only gripe with the dip process was down to where I fixed the brace along the bottom. I welded a lifting eye on each end but they appeared to have only used one, this led to a thick stream of zinc just at the top drivers side bulkhead corner (that side will never rust!) I'm glad I did it and thought long and hard prior to doing it. It cost £60 inc vat from Highland Galvanisers just outside Glasgow. The finish was acceptable for a galv coat, this company deal with lots of architectural stuff and not just heavy industrial stuff so that may have been a factor in the finished product Looked great once prepped and painted.
  16. When refitting my roof (ribbed) the seat belt bracket holes didn't line up, this was with later td5 van sides with the newer brackets. If you have the earlier type sides/brackets to suit the earlier roof then it should be straight forward.
  17. Built many a Nova in my youth in a mates garage, the biggest problem was other mates helping themselves to tools and sundries! I am now fortunate enough to have a very large man-cave, the downside is the bigger it is the more spares (or cr4p as the wife says) you keep. I reckon there's almost enough bits for another rebuild in there.... Buy a small house with a large garage....or a barn conversion/old warehouse!
  18. There's minimal stuff you can use on the td5 engine loom. Oil pressure warning light Charge light Starter solenoid feed. That's it iirc. You'll need to supply a new ignition feed to the diesel pump, new wire from the temp sender (incl new sender if using the td5 cluster) and wire in a glow plug relay too. In all honesty it's not entirely worth the hassle of trying to use the loom. I bought male connectors to save chopping off any plugs, however the td5 alternator plug got the chop and stored for future use. I am considering removing mine and just fitting the appropriate wires as it's a big bundle to wrap up and keep tidy at the bulkhead. If and when I go the td5 engine route it's should still be relatively plug and play.
  19. I can't comment on Ashtree but what you describe is pretty typical of a galv'd bulkhead. Most of the wavy edges straighten out as you attach the floor and transmission panels, as does the top dash mount area. Retapping the rivnuts is a pain, probably the most hated job I had on my rebuild, access to some of them is restrictive to say the least. I had a local firm dip my td5 bulkhead and braced the lower feet as suggested by most of those on here who have had theirs done to save any twisting. My finish was quite good, although a fair amount of prep was required for a paint ready surface.
  20. Looking for some advice/info guys... After being royally screwed on an ebay purchase of a 300tdi axle, I am now looking at a defender td5 front axle to replace my original. It's an 02 off a 90' non ABS. I know the radius arms are the thicker type, the panhard rod may also be thicker as I believe they changed for 02 onwards? Apart from the bearing setup being different in the hubs is there any other difference? I'm fitting alloys and don't want to use spacers, hence the change. Rear axle already upgraded. Cheers Scott
  21. The ones I have changed all slid over the old chassis legs to give a sleeved fit. You should be able to work out how much needs to be trimmed from the old legs to give a snug fit...if you measure what you have cut off and transfer that across onto your replacement. There's a guide in the tech section that's handy to have a read through. A few holes in the sleeves for plug welding onto the old legs that are inside then a complete seam weld around the joints makes it nice and strong.
  22. Best pic I could find at short notice...where you see the two rivets are the locations for the spring clips, it'd be easier to see if the clips were rusty like mine but in these new ones it's still black! To remove if you can depress the clips on either top or bottom then it'll wiggle out. If you just pull then you'll rip the clips off, but if you're sikaflex-ing them back in then it won't be an issue.
  23. Mine were held in with spring clip tabs, two top/two bottom and a smear of sikaflex...and this is how they'll be reinstalled as the clips look pretty weak
  24. Well, here goes... I've owned the evoque since March this year. Spec as a "pure tech" which gives the HDD premium nav system and heated leather. I also opted for some bling. 20s, panoramic roof, front led fogs, mudflaps, full size spare, fancy mats, rear privacy glass. It's a 2.0sdi, 4wd with 190hp and 9spd ZF auto. First impressions? Going from my 2012 3.0SDV6 D4 to the evoque was a bit of a learning curve. I'd had Discovery models for 14yrs so was used to the size, driving position and abilities. I hated it! But, now that I've grown accustomed to it not being a disco it's a really good vehicle. Refinement is top notch: it is noticeably quieter than the d3/d4s I've owned and build quality is good..tight shut lines, no rattles or squeaks. I was amazed that the boot lid and front wings are plastic (no rot!)', however I was slightly peeved to find the rear arch liners to be that felt stuff rather than real plastic...the horse and cow poo really stick to this stuff! The rear doors don't tend to trap dirt as much as the discovery though and the rear arch mouldings don't suffer from gravel rash like the disco did. The "tech" inside the car is very good and has all the features that the rest of the range rovers have although there are some dependant on which boxes you tick. The driving sensation is different from the discovery in that you are quickly aware that the evoque is lighter and lower. It's quite interesting to have the 4x4 info screen up when giving it some beans and it shows you to what extent the diffs are locking and where power is being transferred. The 190 diesel is a pokey unit and it can go like a scalded cat when needed. The car is so quiet that it's very easy to stray into licence losing territory without really noticing....a similar trait that it shares with the bigger RRs. Running costs are a stark improvement, with RFL at £170 p/a and so far fuel averaging in the mid 40s. Highest mpg is 51 on a nice run. The driving position is a fair bit lower than a discovery and the high centre console creates a more wrap around cockpit although I do find with my particular seating position that my knee rubs on this and can be annoying...doesn't affect the Mrs tho! Interior space: it does seem to lack some stowage bins. The glove compartment is adequate, the centre cubby is dinky and the door pockets are only good for some cloths, but a full size ipad sits in the front bins nicely. The kids like the rear seats better as they are more sculpted than the d4 and the legroom is actually quite spacious. The boot however is dinky in comparison to the d4. It's more than enough for the weekly shopping but the disco could carry almost anything you desired (fridges/washing machines etc!) My biggest gripe thus far is the gearbox. It seems to be a lot slower to react than the 8spd ZF in the disco. It's fine when driving but shifting from D to R seems to have some delay. If executing a quick 3 point turn it takes a bit of patience for the box to decide if it's giving you reverse and the same going back to D. The D4 would swap cogs as quick as the rotary was turned....if I had no previous experience then I would just have assumed that this was normal for the type though. As for towing I chose not to fit a towbar. My trailer is a 17ft flat bed and the wife's horses are Clydesdales not little ponies so I wouldn't contemplate using it. It's primary role is family transport and SWMBO commuter and it does this very well. Yup it's a poseur car, it's been across some muddy fields and not got stuck with its road based michelins. The terrain response and 1st crawler gear does an adequate job of replacing a low ratio and it does have a fair degree of wheel travel. I'll see how it copes should we get a bad winter. The acid test was when I asked the wife her thoughts ( she drives it more than I do). Her reply was that she would have the D4 back tomorrow even although it did 22-25mpg and cost £450 for road tax. So, I'll run it for a year and see what the new disco sport looks like but I'd imagine a full size discovery will replace this. Would I recommend one? As an alternative to the q5, x3 etc then yes as it will actually perform in the rougher stuff. As an alternative to a Discovery then no. Is it a real Land rover...well we've had the debate and the result was this sub forum so that's yes. Looks wise it has grown on me. Would I work on one? The engine stuff is perfectly accessible, the suspension looks easy enough to work on and having had a look under the dash it has a load of FoMoCo parts fitted ( is it me of is there more than the hint of Kuga to an Evoque?) and like most modern vehicles it's has the EPB set up too. So, I reckon serviceable stuff is doable. That's about all I can think of at the moment. If there's anything more specific the ask, I'll try my best to answer/give my opinion
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