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Scotts90

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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. Anyone on here running boosts with spacers? I am now at the stage of my refurb where I need wheels and tyres. My friend and parts supplier was coaxing me slowly into terrafirma alloys which are on special at the moment, but I just got a set of 5 new take off OE boosts for a very good price. My query is, do I change the front axle to 300/td5 spec with the thinner mounting flange or run spacers? I know the terrafirma wheels were either 0mm or 10mm offset, boosts are 33mm. Running a 30mm spacer would drop me to 3mm offset...so no real difference from fitting a low offset wheel. Cost wise, I rebuilt the td axle...all seals, hub flanges, bearings, cv's and swivels...and all new brakes too (yup I know it's only a 10 spline). The hubcentric spacers will set me back about the same amount as a used front axle...which will then need a rebuild too. I have done the forum search and looked at the webrover link with regards to fitting to the early front axle by filing the offending parts and removing the drive member spring washers...but I'd like the centre caps to fit! I have a later once piece halfshaft rear disc axle so that's not an issue. Just looking for some real world experiences.
  2. The mesh floor definitely sounds like fuel storage..LPG perhaps? About the right size for a cylinder, any leakage would vent too.
  3. I put new corners, footwells a-pillars and feet on my bulkhead. Thought I was doing the right thing doing it all on the chassis and using datum points for refitting, only to discover once transferred onto the new chassis that the old ones' front outrigger and a-post were out of line due to rot and a whack on that side...countless hours of welding and grinding up the swanny. I still have this one and will drill the spots and rejig it using the other one for measurements. After the above setback I sourced a td5 one requiring a 1" patch to the footwell, got it blasted for £30 and galved for £60. Most annoyng thing was retapping the holes and drilling out the hinges for the flaps. At one point I did consider the ashtree one but at £1k it's a lot of money... If you have the time and patience then do it yourself, just make sure it's all lined up!
  4. Symptoms: going from turbo'd petrol experience, if the wastegate doesn't open or sticks shut then you'll find you have a noticeable increase in boost as the rpm increases...standard boost is 0.85bar I think. Now this is all fair and well and you may have a grin on your face right up until it all goes Pete Tong. Which leads nicely on to... Consequences: potential engine damage or complete failure. Increasing boost is fine until the fuelling can no longer keep up, this can melt pistons and knacker blocks. If you're lucky, the increased pressure could blow off a boost pipe before getting to the engine damaging stage. Manufacturers design the engines for longevity and reliability so any increase is going to affect the lifespan, 200s are now 20+ yrs old and it's testament to the design they have lasted so long. Petrol engines running mega boost will have ARP studs to hold it all together, wire ringed blocks/steel head gaskets, increased flow/larger injectors , bigger intercoolers, uprated actuators and the ecu tweaked to suit. It's all to easy to up boost settings and enjoy the power but without considering other components (clutch/gearbox etc) is a ticking time bomb.
  5. I've no idea how much metal the csk kit removes. A friendly phone call or email to them may be helpful?
  6. 425mm from back of bonnet to strengthening flanged edge
  7. I agree, the cash thing doesn't hold as much power as it used to, especially with a dealer. It is far easier dealing with an enthusiast or a "decent" bloke. Going in too low suggests you're not serious or don't have the cash. Everyone these days can research the price of similar vehicles and dealers are the same, if they have taken the car in part exchange they may have some more wiggle room on the price but this all depends if they had to massage the trade in price to secure their other sale. Most car salesmen in dealers have no interest in what they are selling but are merely there to complete the transaction. I have bought a few new cars where the salesman had little to no knowledge of the vehicle he was sitting in....pretty poor.
  8. To get more oomph without tweaking the wastegate, the actuator will need to see less boost whilst the turbo spools. If the actuator is connected to a source that sees slightly less boost pressure than the turbo is producing, then the turbo will need to make more boost to cause the wastegate to open. Similar to fitting a bleed valve on the actuator feed pipe to "trick" the wastegate/actuator in staying closed longer. Not a great tuning method, but it works. This was a favourite method on RS turbos back in the day lol
  9. The td5 frame is riveted along the outer fold of the bonnet skin - front, sides and along the back. Mine also appears to have a token gesture of sikaflex/tiger seal around the centre brace. Front: Side: Rear and token sealant: I wouldn't like to stand on it!
  10. It's as clear as mud...if you have a "B" category only then you are correct...the trailer can't weigh more than the car...but the "BE" category allows for combined weight of car and trailer over 3500kg...which is where a landy and a nice sized trailer comes in.
  11. This link gives the old to new categories depending on license issue dates https://www.gov.uk/old-driving-licence-categories
  12. The trailer part is ok...your train weight won't exceed 8250kg with the landy and trailer. You can also drive a 7.5t vehicle with a trailer too (albeit only 750kg trailer weight). Pretty sure my MAM was 12000kg on my licence for vehicle+trailer. As for driving 18 seat minibuses I've no idea. My licence was issued 1990 and has always been 16 seat stipulation for minibuses.
  13. We had to sign a mandate to allow our company fleet operator to access our DVLA records, we used to submit or licences and paper counterpart annually but there were allegedly a few naughty people that had clean duplicates to submit. Using that link at least I can check what information the DVLA hold against me is correct!
  14. Oh, and my wife says she'll kill me if I sell my 90 after it's finished...
  15. Eh over 25yrs of driving its not too bad! I had/have a bad habit of buying cars, spending time and effort to get them up to my spec (fussy barsteward ) then after getting them done I get bored and sell it. My other guilty pleasure is Vauxhall (so shoot me) had a few show winners/best kept and the odd feature so these cars all sold themselves. It's far too easy when someone approaches you to buy your car rather than advertising and selling. My last 8 vauxhalls are still owned by friends/enthusiasts. There were times when I would buy a car, send the v5 away and the car would be sold to a mate by the time I got it back from DVLA. As my main cars got more expensive ie new Discoverys etc then they would be kept at least a year before changing...the longest I have owned a car was 2 yrs...my D3 and D4 both made it that long. However my hobby/show cars were changed at will! I think it may be genetic...my Dad was a mechanic and he changed cars almost weekly.
  16. If it's a dealer...start at least £500 down from asking price....nothing to lose! If the price isn't flexible then go for tax, fresh MOT, tank of fuel, full service, if the tyres are borderline then factor replacements or money off. It's only if it ticks every box and there's no niggly bits that can be bartered over that you expect to pay full whack. It's hard not to let the heart rule the wallet....as is so easy if you have set your mind on buying that particular 90...the key is not to let the dealer know you REALLY want it! If you're travelling a great distance to see the vehicle most vendors won't expect you to walk away, but don't be afraid to do so, even going away for a coffee to let them mull over an offer works wonders. It's always handy to have a "back up" vehicle to look at and tell the dealer this, you may not be the least interested in another car but if they expect you may buy another one close by then it can help. Bought a few cars in my driving history...the count is at 62 at the moment..so have haggled a few times!
  17. There's a good few kilos between them...will see if I can weigh the old one later tonight. The td5 one I just fitted is much easier to handle.
  18. csklandrovers offer puma rear arch conversion kit for £260, formed arches to cut into your existing right angled arches to give the factory rebate style of the puma models...worth a look? http://www.csklandrovers.co.uk/online-shop/interior-parts/ Scroll down to the seat upgrade section
  19. Aye very good. I'm sure most of us will have been there at some point. My wife no longer asks what I spend, every mans gotta have a hobby and it's less marriage destructive than cheap women and expensive booze... As for the Mrs being a landy-lover? I bought her a Mitsubishi to replace a Discovery...8 weeks later another Discovery was on order as she hated the damn thing.
  20. And don't buy a britpart sender or you'll have a wibbly wobbly electronic speedo lol
  21. My wings are all new apart from the inners. The sides were £66 each plus delivery from SPLandrovers, the top/front (which LR refer to as a fender assembly were new from Landrover at £180 per side. Finding good relatively dent free wings on eBay was nigh on impossible
  22. You can see along the top where the inner is bolted through the outer and upper skins there are 4 bolts...or hex screws and spire nuts depending on what they had lying about when it was built! You could remove the top/front and side to leave the inner wings but not the other way around...it's all got to come off. This is the bare inner, I forgot there's also a bolt through the bulkhead bracket above the chassis rail
  23. In addition to above... Remove grill, two bolts inside at top of either side also one bolt further down. Top radiator brackets are bolted onto wings too. Inner wing will have two large self tappers onto bulkhead bracket, and stay from bulkhead footwell onto lower inner lip of wing. Wiring loom is clipped onto the inner wing and is accessible after removing the rubber arches (plastic expanding rivets), it will be bullet connectors so unplug the loom as necessary including the side repeaters. The air inlet duct from the outer wing into the engine bay restricts access a bit to the bulkhead to wing bolts, undo the screws and try to split at the joint if possible, this will allow you to move it about to get it the bolts. After that you need to try and lift them up and over the turrets...ok on standard but a bit tight with heavy duty ones fitted. Getting them off is easy, refitting without scratching the nice new paint is the hard bit! The pic shows all the holes where it's bolted, and you'll see the slots at the bulkhead end for the 4 bolts
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