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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. Hmm, food for thought. I know my rears dislocate and need a gentle tap to sit squarely back in the seat...ok on the move as undoubtedly they will go back in...but on a ramp I'm not too sure. Reckon I'll just stick a set of cones on it anyway.
  2. The top of your sides will have a channel into which the seal will be a snug fit. The lip on the seal will lap over the outer skin of your sides. My upper seals were real rubber with the lower being foam. I thought 110 ones would just have been different in length.
  3. Masai sell templates on their online shop at £15. The landy glass fitting guide in Augusts LRO gave dimensions too but the "full roll of masking tape" to get the radius for the corners was a bit of a guess....ok if you're fitting full glass side panels...not if you are fitting OE style windows.
  4. On my radiator the adaptors on the end cap did look as if they were screwed into the plastic but once they were removed they are actually screwed into a brazed boss on the cooler tank. There's just very little to brace against when trying to unscrew them, careful application of heat (don't melt the plastic) to break whatever sealing compound they use seems to help.
  5. When I replaced my 200tdi rad it had the newer style adaptors that had the o-ring fitting for the oil pipes. These unscrewed after some persuasion (thought I was going to break the rad and I work on industrial piping!), I then fitted the conical older style adaptors from my original radiator. I did go to the bother of ordering up the newer style 200tdi hoses, but these have different fittings at the sandwich plate on the oil filter housing.
  6. It should have a USB port in the lid of the cubby box, use the standard apple usb lead. Depending on spec it should also be possible to pair via Bluetooth and stream music from your Iphone/ipad etc. My 2012 model had these features on GS spec
  7. Scotts90

    Body help

    If your chassis is that rotten then it certainly won't help! I have a td5 bulkhead, td screen, YRM seat box battery and toolbox replacements on either side, I've fitted NAS quarters, new floor and supports to the rear tub as well as new rear light panels. I've just fitted rear later spec side panels and have an older ribbed roof...and td5 doors...and it all bolts together without any "major" issues. All the doors shut with ease, panel gaps are per factory tolerances, assembling things loosely first to allow for tweaking was a good help. By the sounds of things the body is under a degree of stress due to the rot and if you have the chassis sitting on stands then it makes things worse.
  8. My 87 with 200 tdi fitted never had one, just a straight feed from the ignition barrel to the starter solenoid. Your fault could be a worn barrel though, just making contact when held in the pre-heat position.
  9. Have you tried popping out the starter relay to see if it still tries to crank? Will narrow any short down to before or after relay...ie from ign barrel feed down or from relay to starter solenoid.
  10. My top seals were for a 90 mxc3676/7, these differed from my original seals that sat recessed inside the top of the panel, the new ones have a lip that sits over the panel. I was going from the older style sides that have the horizontal internal brace and the extra strengthener at the door shut (b-pillar) to the newer style fully flush panels. The lower foam ones were part no's AML710070/60 (again for the 90), the cutouts go around the cap to body mount holes and the bigger cutout for the 90degree bend for the rear panel, the slot at the end tucks behind the bracket at the rear door.
  11. Yes Reb. I follow your meaning now, mine were a good 45-50mm pre-compression and protruded well beyond the lower panel edge when stuck on.
  12. Was just about to list the part numbers for the ones I just got for mine....then realised my 90 ones would be even shorter. They were Britpart too, both lower foam/sponge type and upper rubber ones were a perfect fit! No gaps that I can see, there was at least 15mm beyond the panel prior to tightening and compressing the foam.
  13. I've had 2 disco td5s, we have a 110 300tdi farm pickup and previous to that had a 110 td5 hi-cap. My current rebuild is a 200tdi but is being fitted with the intention of a td5 upgrade if and when the 200 expires. Both are great engines, buy whichever model suits your driving and as mentioned previously is in the best order. Did well over 100k on the discoverys and only had the oil in the loom fault once, prior to popular belief at the time that landys of the late 90s and early 00s were unreliable (my shogun broke down more often). The 300tdi is simple and easy to fix but archaic compared to the td5. If you can, drive both then buy the one you like.
  14. Apologies for the hi-jack...I have a 3 wire screen in the wrapper in the other room, there is approx 2mm top and bottom from the screen to the foil tape that encloses the element. At either side at the bottom there is approximately 60mm of element free glass and there is 30mm "free" at the top. This is an OE pilkington green tint screen. The end connections are about 65mm from either side.
  15. Thanks. I piped up the system with the g-valve and all seems to be working well. I'll see how it fares once it hits the road
  16. Looking for some guidance/advice chaps. I have upgraded the rear axle on my 90 so that I have discs all round, I have also installed the non-ABS servo and mastercylinder assembly that came with my td5 bulkhead. Am I better installing the non-ABS PRV to suit the td5 set up or just leave the g-valve In place? I have a new PRV in my big pile of parts that came from Britcar today
  17. Highest load per core will be stoplight as the one core supplies both sides... 42w in total assuming standard bulbs and not LED units therefore 3.5amps. All other cores are less than this, even if you are running marker lights off the tail light feeds. Most of my trailer wire/7 core is 1mm2 which has a load of 8.75a.
  18. Scotts90


    Hinges are ok, the check strap brackets are different on OE series doors from push button ones. I think SP Landrovers sell series bottoms that are modified to suit the push button style check strap.
  19. Scotts90


    You'll need to change the striker to suit the anti burst locks
  20. Fuel filler hose and rear wiring loom disconnected?
  21. Oops. Got distracted by the link, back to topic. You are looking at a few hours labour, as mentioned earlier if it can be chopped and simply replaced then that's a bonus but if the chassis rail needs plates then it's more involved, especially if it's the loom side (assuming the loom is still inside the offside chassis rail). Have a good prod around the mounting area to ensure its sound metal then take it to a garage you trust so you know they aren't going to rip you off. A lot of places see a rusty old Landy as a retirement fund!
  22. Wow, such amazing attention to detail there! Most of us strive to over engineer any issues...he did the opposite. It's a 4yr old thread on LRO, I wonder if the poor machine (or driver) still survives?
  23. Soak it in loose-all/gazplus/wd40 etc and let it soak. If you have access to air tools then an impact socket and air gun makes life a lot easier. Get the bolt spinning then a pry bar under the head as you spin should slowly work it free. Turn the bolt in both directions as you free it off, it'll loosen eventually
  24. I assume you are talking about pipe, I think the others are referring to HDPE sheeting?
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