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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. We use shears for cutting 25 and 32mm PE pipe, we have a larger version that does 63mm too. This only gives straight cuts but gives a nice clean finish and square edge for electrofusion or transition fittings Like these^^
  2. Did you try the nut from your original steering box to see if it runs up without any issues?
  3. Hi folks, I'm looking for some help regarding my exhaust. I have the late style 300tdi full system ( non cat front pipe, large centre silencer and rear over axle pipe) I am fitting this to my 200 tdi, the chassis is a Marsland galv item and I bought the appropriate hanger brackets (I think). The reason for fitment is due to the td5 rear tank setup I have fitted but it's a really tight fit. I am going to mate the 200/300 front pipes and was looking to have the rest of the system "standard" 300tdi. Bracket wise I have the one that bolts onto the chassis rail adjacent to the transfer box (old 200 one was suspended from gearbox mount), I have the one for the middle crossmember that attaches via rivnuts to the underside and the one for the rear crossmember......straight fit then? Er no! With the centre section on its rubbers it is almost touching the chassis rail and the A-frame mount. The rear pipe is then also nearly touching the A-frame arm. I've done the usual searches to try and see clearance pics but is it really meant to be so close? When I say nearly it's only a few mm away. To my eyes the chassis mount bracket needs to be lower to drop the silencer a bit to give more sideways clearance then the intermediate crossmember bracket could also be doing with a drop. Any one else had this problem or is it down to the pattern exhaust being miles out of tolerance? Just looking for some insight before chopping the hangers to suit!
  4. I wouldn't say there's any great difference driving between the two, our 110 pickup has a 300tdi with R380 which was an upgrade from a 200tdi with LT77...I just keep going for reverse in the wrong place. It is smoother on changes (as smooth as a pickup on MTs can be), but this could just be down to a lower mileage box vs a worn one.
  5. Have you tried paisley freight? Used them a few times for alloy wheels etc
  6. Just nipped out for a couple of pics... The top one is from my td5 bulkhead which had the earlier non-binnacle style dash and is identical to the 200tdi one at the bottom from what I can see. The next pic is of the later td5 one, the small brackets at either end of the earlier plates aren't fitted on the later one (albeit at the passengers side there's nowt to attach the bracket to)
  7. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89546 For a male thread, ie for screwing into the caliper, it's a convex flare (or first/single operation). This gives the "domed" part on the brake pipe itself to create a sealing face when inserted into the caliper. The T piece will require these fittings too as it's an all female T. A concave or second/double operation flare is required when you have a female brake fitting on the brake pipe, eg for attaching onto the threaded part of the flexi hose. Does that make sense?
  8. I swapped out the 6 bolt box on the farm 110, it had been on the cards for some time and I knew it wouldn't sneak through the MOT as the play had become a bit much for my liking ( I don't drive it much). Getting to the point, after the new box was installed without the engine running and giving the steering wheel a wiggle would produce visible movement on the wide MTs that are fitted. If you are getting 1/2" movement of the steering before any movement at the wheels with all the other new parts fitted that would lead me to suspect the steering box. FWI, they only do outright on the 6 bolt gemmer, it's not an exchange like the adwest 4bolt units. I paid £230 for a remanufactured unit a few months ago
  9. That's a bugger, at least you know what the cause is now just a shame you're at assembly stage before finding out.
  10. My 90 chassis is pretty bare if you want some comparison measurements
  11. I think Sean is referring to spacers/washers on the bulkhead lower mounting bolts at the outriggers to move the bulkhead forward and gain some space
  12. Not all brake systems are constructed with double flares though. Caliper, mastercylinder, wheel cylinder etc all use male fittings so require a single flare to give the appropriate mating face. These single flares are either SAE which slightly differs with an angled shoulder against the male fitting, or DIN which has a flat shoulder to fit against the male fitting. As mentioned previously it requires a 2nd operation to create the double flare. Can't see why a single isn't DOT approved due to its use throughout the brake systems.
  13. Do a google search for "300tdi penny trick", it involves placing a penny under the tensioner to slightly realign the pulley to stop the squeaking.
  14. Yes, the fitting above requires a concave flare. On my flaring tool this involves creating a convex flare first, then flipping the die to create the concave or double flare as some term it.
  15. On a similar vein, my evoque has an Eco screen that shows how much the gadgets affect fuel consumption....eg heated seats/screens, fan blower, lights etc. It all adds up, one seat heater at high setting is 0.3 gallons/hr iirc.
  16. I got an eBay special that does up to M10 rivnuts, seems to work ok for £40. It does the alloy rivnuts easily regardless of size but the steel m10 ones require a degree of effort. The only down fall of the large handled models is restricted access....then the universal bolt/nuts/washer technique needs to be used. Plenty of topics on google for homemade rivnut tool
  17. Demon Tweeks do some nice expensive motor sport fuel fillers and hoses. Maybe a local Pirtek or hydraulic hose shop would be able to help? Your 130 will have the larger plastic type filler mount panel and standard filler neck...I take it this is no longer fitted if you have drop sides?
  18. I fitted both the YRM battery box and under drivers seat tool box to my original 200tdi seat box as it was holed under the battery tray. Most of the 2nd hand ones I looked at had rotten panels at the tub mount and as I had relocated the fuel tank I had some dead space under the drivers seat. Very straightforward to fit albeit pricey but it gives loads of room for some electrickery
  19. I recently replaced the 6 bolt gemmer box on our 110 for its MOT, the BFH (14lb-man hammer) wouldn't budge the drop arm. I thought it would have come off easily seeing it had been soaked in power steering fluid for about 5 years. It ended up in the vice with a 10ton hydraulic puller to free it off, the one on my 90 almost fell off and it had sat for years outside....go figure :/ It may be worthwhile having a spare seal handy just in case any wedging/levering does some damage to it. The internals are pretty robust so any shock loading from a hammer strike should be ok
  20. I'll let you know in 30yrs Joking aside, if it's for the marine industry, designed not to washout and be resistant to salt water then it "should" do its job adequately on a Land Rover chassis....... Hopefully
  21. Better clarify...when I say the "further the metals are apart" I mean in the galvanic series....not distance
  22. Looking into the chemistry of disimilar metals, I found that the advice was to stay away from copper (albeit suspended in grease) when using in connection with aluminium or galvanised steel as the further the metals are apart the faster the corrosion process occurs. I have a zinc-oxide based anti seize compound that I plan to use where the bzp fittings are fixed to the alloy panels. My chassis bolts are all dry fitted against as there are no disimilar metals as I have galvanised brackets throughout. The compound is primarily for the marine industry but it's worth a try. As I said, the original bolts I assume we're fitted dry and although they corroded the bolts were still holding together after 25years of neglect.
  23. I fitted a set of Wipac quadoptic standard headlamps to the farm 110 prior to its MOT due to a failed sealed beam unit. I couldn't source another sealed unit but my friendly parts supplier had a set in stock at a great price. Checked the voltage at the multiplug prior to changing and was getting a good 13v with the engine running....fitted the new ones (had osram night breakers fitted too) and wow what a difference! It's very rarely used for any great distances in the dark so the lights had never been an issue. I was contemplating the bling LED units for my own 90 but just ordered some new quadoptics instead. (That's a few hundred quid towards the winch! Lol)
  24. I found toolstation to be even cheaper than screwfix for bulk packs of of 8.8 nuts/bolts and washers. They tend to have a better selection too. The stainless vs bzp issue I researched at great detail...if the original bolts lasted almost 30yrs with no cleaning or wax protection/greasing then I hope the new ones will last the same! For critical bolts such as suspension/braking and transmission I sourced the OE bolts from my local 4x4 specialist.
  25. I ran my original loom through the new galv chassis as it was in remarkably good nick, however a change of tack and a full td5 loom install and with some advice from those on here I have run the td5 chassis loom on the top rail. As mentioned previously it makes adding or future fault finding a lot easier. I did remove the tdi loom and although I had meticulously wrapped it up in loom tape it was torn to shreds by the innards of the chassis, I can only speculate that the galv inside was to blame. I'm pretty glad I changed as I reckon it would've shorted out given time.
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