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Scotts90

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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. Oops. Got distracted by the link, back to topic. You are looking at a few hours labour, as mentioned earlier if it can be chopped and simply replaced then that's a bonus but if the chassis rail needs plates then it's more involved, especially if it's the loom side (assuming the loom is still inside the offside chassis rail). Have a good prod around the mounting area to ensure its sound metal then take it to a garage you trust so you know they aren't going to rip you off. A lot of places see a rusty old Landy as a retirement fund!
  2. Wow, such amazing attention to detail there! Most of us strive to over engineer any issues...he did the opposite. It's a 4yr old thread on LRO, I wonder if the poor machine (or driver) still survives?
  3. Soak it in loose-all/gazplus/wd40 etc and let it soak. If you have access to air tools then an impact socket and air gun makes life a lot easier. Get the bolt spinning then a pry bar under the head as you spin should slowly work it free. Turn the bolt in both directions as you free it off, it'll loosen eventually
  4. I assume you are talking about pipe, I think the others are referring to HDPE sheeting?
  5. We use shears for cutting 25 and 32mm PE pipe, we have a larger version that does 63mm too. This only gives straight cuts but gives a nice clean finish and square edge for electrofusion or transition fittings Like these^^
  6. Did you try the nut from your original steering box to see if it runs up without any issues?
  7. Hi folks, I'm looking for some help regarding my exhaust. I have the late style 300tdi full system ( non cat front pipe, large centre silencer and rear over axle pipe) I am fitting this to my 200 tdi, the chassis is a Marsland galv item and I bought the appropriate hanger brackets (I think). The reason for fitment is due to the td5 rear tank setup I have fitted but it's a really tight fit. I am going to mate the 200/300 front pipes and was looking to have the rest of the system "standard" 300tdi. Bracket wise I have the one that bolts onto the chassis rail adjacent to the transfer box (old 200 one was suspended from gearbox mount), I have the one for the middle crossmember that attaches via rivnuts to the underside and the one for the rear crossmember......straight fit then? Er no! With the centre section on its rubbers it is almost touching the chassis rail and the A-frame mount. The rear pipe is then also nearly touching the A-frame arm. I've done the usual searches to try and see clearance pics but is it really meant to be so close? When I say nearly it's only a few mm away. To my eyes the chassis mount bracket needs to be lower to drop the silencer a bit to give more sideways clearance then the intermediate crossmember bracket could also be doing with a drop. Any one else had this problem or is it down to the pattern exhaust being miles out of tolerance? Just looking for some insight before chopping the hangers to suit!
  8. I wouldn't say there's any great difference driving between the two, our 110 pickup has a 300tdi with R380 which was an upgrade from a 200tdi with LT77...I just keep going for reverse in the wrong place. It is smoother on changes (as smooth as a pickup on MTs can be), but this could just be down to a lower mileage box vs a worn one.
  9. Have you tried paisley freight? Used them a few times for alloy wheels etc
  10. Just nipped out for a couple of pics... The top one is from my td5 bulkhead which had the earlier non-binnacle style dash and is identical to the 200tdi one at the bottom from what I can see. The next pic is of the later td5 one, the small brackets at either end of the earlier plates aren't fitted on the later one (albeit at the passengers side there's nowt to attach the bracket to)
  11. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89546 For a male thread, ie for screwing into the caliper, it's a convex flare (or first/single operation). This gives the "domed" part on the brake pipe itself to create a sealing face when inserted into the caliper. The T piece will require these fittings too as it's an all female T. A concave or second/double operation flare is required when you have a female brake fitting on the brake pipe, eg for attaching onto the threaded part of the flexi hose. Does that make sense?
  12. I swapped out the 6 bolt box on the farm 110, it had been on the cards for some time and I knew it wouldn't sneak through the MOT as the play had become a bit much for my liking ( I don't drive it much). Getting to the point, after the new box was installed without the engine running and giving the steering wheel a wiggle would produce visible movement on the wide MTs that are fitted. If you are getting 1/2" movement of the steering before any movement at the wheels with all the other new parts fitted that would lead me to suspect the steering box. FWI, they only do outright on the 6 bolt gemmer, it's not an exchange like the adwest 4bolt units. I paid £230 for a remanufactured unit a few months ago
  13. That's a bugger, at least you know what the cause is now just a shame you're at assembly stage before finding out.
  14. My 90 chassis is pretty bare if you want some comparison measurements
  15. I think Sean is referring to spacers/washers on the bulkhead lower mounting bolts at the outriggers to move the bulkhead forward and gain some space
  16. Not all brake systems are constructed with double flares though. Caliper, mastercylinder, wheel cylinder etc all use male fittings so require a single flare to give the appropriate mating face. These single flares are either SAE which slightly differs with an angled shoulder against the male fitting, or DIN which has a flat shoulder to fit against the male fitting. As mentioned previously it requires a 2nd operation to create the double flare. Can't see why a single isn't DOT approved due to its use throughout the brake systems.
  17. Do a google search for "300tdi penny trick", it involves placing a penny under the tensioner to slightly realign the pulley to stop the squeaking.
  18. Yes, the fitting above requires a concave flare. On my flaring tool this involves creating a convex flare first, then flipping the die to create the concave or double flare as some term it.
  19. On a similar vein, my evoque has an Eco screen that shows how much the gadgets affect fuel consumption....eg heated seats/screens, fan blower, lights etc. It all adds up, one seat heater at high setting is 0.3 gallons/hr iirc.
  20. I got an eBay special that does up to M10 rivnuts, seems to work ok for £40. It does the alloy rivnuts easily regardless of size but the steel m10 ones require a degree of effort. The only down fall of the large handled models is restricted access....then the universal bolt/nuts/washer technique needs to be used. Plenty of topics on google for homemade rivnut tool
  21. Demon Tweeks do some nice expensive motor sport fuel fillers and hoses. Maybe a local Pirtek or hydraulic hose shop would be able to help? Your 130 will have the larger plastic type filler mount panel and standard filler neck...I take it this is no longer fitted if you have drop sides?
  22. I fitted both the YRM battery box and under drivers seat tool box to my original 200tdi seat box as it was holed under the battery tray. Most of the 2nd hand ones I looked at had rotten panels at the tub mount and as I had relocated the fuel tank I had some dead space under the drivers seat. Very straightforward to fit albeit pricey but it gives loads of room for some electrickery
  23. I recently replaced the 6 bolt gemmer box on our 110 for its MOT, the BFH (14lb-man hammer) wouldn't budge the drop arm. I thought it would have come off easily seeing it had been soaked in power steering fluid for about 5 years. It ended up in the vice with a 10ton hydraulic puller to free it off, the one on my 90 almost fell off and it had sat for years outside....go figure :/ It may be worthwhile having a spare seal handy just in case any wedging/levering does some damage to it. The internals are pretty robust so any shock loading from a hammer strike should be ok
  24. I'll let you know in 30yrs Joking aside, if it's for the marine industry, designed not to washout and be resistant to salt water then it "should" do its job adequately on a Land Rover chassis....... Hopefully
  25. Better clarify...when I say the "further the metals are apart" I mean in the galvanic series....not distance
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