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Scotts90

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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. As volume sales go, do you think that the land cruiser is responsible for it being there? Our local Toyota dealer doesn’t even hold any stock of them
  2. It has nice company though especially in 4x4 territory...Subaru, Mitsubishi and Jeep are all down there. So thanks for the link, it at least shows it’s contemporaries are just as poorly rated in those surveys
  3. My you really have a bee in your technical bonnet over this. I’m sorry if my “thoughts and musings” don’t meet up to the required level of informed discussion. I’ve read the 12 pages, all very in depth as to why it won’t be any good and why the original defenders were good to a point. However, unless you have access to JLRs technical department and know exact and detailed build specs of the replacement vehicle then it’s all guess work...or have I missed something?
  4. Ahh forever optimistic. It's the same rhetoric rolled out wth most updates/model change/engine change...td5 in a defender? Perish the thought...what an uproar with an electronic throttle..it'll never be popular. D2 was "almost" acceptable as it didn't look too different, D3 was slated for numerous reasons as was D4 and suprisingly enough so too the D5. Dare I say it by lots of commenters who have never owned them but going on Internet stats? As a marque they are no more troublesome than any of their counterparts, my Shogun was plagued with not-so-super-select 4wd faults...to the point where I went back to a D2. So, for what it's worth I'll consider buying one even although I'm definitely rural and not suburban...if it can tow 3500kg, deal with snow, ice and muddy field crossings in a similar state of comfort that the D3,4 & 5 can then why not? (Apart from 12+ pages of unsubstantiated opinions )
  5. So, are you fitting a td5 loom to a non-td5 engined version? If so, the ignition barrel switches are different...which you've already sussed out. The td5 looms have no ignition triggered heater plug wiring as the ecu takes care of this on the td5 engine. Straightforward enough to work around though. wiring to switch as below...
  6. You can purchase a patch lead which will adapt to standard ISO blocks which are fitted to most aftermarket head units
  7. Ecu/main loom and ABS plugs enter from the side under the cubby towards the front, power supply to drivers underseat fuse box to the rear of the same side. Power supply to starter exits from the front face of the passenger battery compartment along the chassis leg.
  8. Nice cheap digital luggage scales do the job just fine
  9. Did you check the load to turn by fitting the drum brake and Spring balance scale as mentioned in the manual? You may find that it's not as tight as you think. Remember it's done without the rear carrier sun gear fitted
  10. Bah humbug. I like my D5, as I did my D4, D3 and D2s which from my limited overseas pricing knowledge were expensive to buy too. I like the look of the current JLR range and judging by the amount on the road I can’t be the only one. The amount of negativity in this topic is overwhelming...I think the consensus is the new defender will be failure in “our” eyes but I think it will be a commercial success. Time will tell.
  11. Seasons greetings folks...have a good one😉
  12. I've got a cheap eBay LED light-bar on the van and a nice expensive American one onthe 90. The difference is quite literally night and day, to say they have no range must be of the cheap version as my Rigid far outshines the 4 hella 3000s with night breaker bulbs that I had fitted on the roof. But, I'll agree that in some conditions it can be too bright being a pure white light. Where I prefer the bar over the old style 9" lamps is stability...unless you can fit lamp steadies no matter how rigid your base is they still wobble which does my nut in.
  13. My D2 airtronic in my Transit just died on Monday, blower failure. Not bad after 3854hrs in a very poor environment! This is its first hiccup in 6yrs so I'd class that as reliable. Being refurbed overnight and will be refitted in the morning...just in time for the snow and ice to hit. I'd have no qualms in sticking one in the 90, although it's blessed with a pretty good heater oddly enough.
  14. Genuine LR on mine with no trimming, I think you may be surprised by how much it will form onto the windscreen. From memory mine was quite loose around the screen. The outer edge has to overlap the screen frame by a good 10-15mm all the way around and in your pic it's not even close to being seated. Similar when you remove/replace door seals, you always think it's going to be too long but manipulating and gentle persuading usually means they fit fine,
  15. Rather than prising the connector apart...the yellow face unclips and slides out (this locks the pins in place), then use a terminal tool or suitably thin implement to lift the small tabs that hold the individual pins in, they will then pull out from the rear. New Pins/sockets are readily available allowing you to retain the factory plugs once the broken wires are repaired. I think I have an EGR. equipped 300tdi loom hiding in the shed, I’ll try and dig it out and get a look at the plugs concerned to see if it’s any help
  16. I agree with Ian, for the most part that looks like an extra DIY loom. Can’t remember seeing an OE loom using “banded” wiring, it usually has a tracer colour. You don’t have much going to the “back” of a standard 90/110. Both indicators, both stop and both tail, fog,reverse. In the middle you’ll have a difflock switch, reverse light switch and possibly Handbrake switch. These will feed from the plugs on the bulkhead down into the chassis loom (which then disappears into the chassis leg). What fuses blew when that got ripped out? Would be a rough indicator of affected circuits... oh and more pics would help
  17. Gives you plenty time to practice gluing metal together with electrickery
  18. Yes, it's a very valid comment too. I tend to find that a high percentage of rebuild and restoration costs come down to labour as not everyone has the means/methods or indeed time to carry out extensive repairs. That's where if you are able to do all the work it makes perfect sense to repair these types of projects.
  19. Go gently with the t/stat housing bolts.
  20. My 2012 Transit does this, has done from new and 180k further in it still does it. Never an issue on braking efficiency and I'm pretty sure it's mentioned in the drivers handbook.
  21. The elbow off the pump on mine had a habit of sweating for a while after being disturbed. It wicked its way down the timing case and pooled at the crank.
  22. Hmm I was told 3 times, can't remember from where though...
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