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Scotts90

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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. I am considering these on my 90. It's not to everyone's taste and is definitely on the bling side of things but I think it suits the defender. Masai also do the kit as fitted to the Nene Overland defenders (again, not everyone's cup of tea).
  2. This is how I clean I like mine...sad but hey-ho. Never had any problems selling cars on when they're kept like this tho My astra gsi Vectra gsi Mk3 astra gsi Yes, I like my vauxhalls too lol At MOT time the testers put rags on the beam jack so as not to damage the paint. Back on topic though, on one of the rally are we built the Kevlar guards were only lasting a couple of events before thinning through so we used curved section from blue chemical barrels to form inner arch guards and deflectors. Those worked a treat
  3. My main dislike about waxoyl and similar non-setting coatings is their limited scope for cleaning. I like to be able to wash/scrub all the crud from the inner arches and underside and whilst not impossible with waxoyl it's a lot easier with a hardened finish
  4. Raptor coat sounds good. Thanks for the ideas chaps
  5. Has anyone stone guarded the underside of their tub? More specifically the inner arches? I'm aware the tub is almost all alloy/aluminium and factory spec appears to be the lightest dusting of paint known to man, just wondered if it's worth the effort to try and add a layer of sound deadening and a little added weather protection. The plan is to etch prime all the bare areas then seam seal and prime as usual. Do I topcoat then waxoyl, or schutz/gravitex then topcoat. The bad point is creating a water trap if the stoneguard gets breached. Any advice or experience appreciated Scott
  6. My 87 had the lift up handle doors, judging by the pictures these have been swapped from the push button type. My OE ones had the burst proof striker fitted as opposed to the standard type as shown in your image. I know you can spec replacement lift up doors with locks suitable for the standard push button strikers.
  7. Disco tdv6? Depends how deep your pockets are. It's euro4 spec iirc
  8. Well, I like the way it looks too. As for "jeep", was it not a slang term for general purpose coined by the military ? No vehicle fits the role better than a defender. It's a pity the decal on the door isn't clearer or it may have helped trace the modifier/garage.
  9. Hi guys, due to being on call I thought I'd tackle a nice easy job...fitting the exhaust. I have a 200 tdi and was going to fit the late 300 tdi centre and rear pipe, altering the down pipe to suit so the rest of the system was standard 90 300 items. As always it's never straight forward. I had purchased the chassis mount, mid cross member and rear mount for the 300tdi system from YRM. The reason for the 300 system is due to the rear mounted td5 tank. With the centre and rear fitted the centre silencer is almost touching the a-frame arm brackets and the rear pipe is only 5mm from the arm itself. Is this normal? At the gearbox end of the silencer there is no way the front pipe is going to clear the gearbox mount. It's an allmakes system, not a britpart...surely the tolerances aren't that far out....lol Now I do have a 200 front and centre section and this fits with no fouling or clearance issues, I did cut it short at the rear small box so as not to foul the tank when mocking it up. Is there much difference between a td5 and a 300 system? I know the mid crossmember bracket is to the rear rather than slung under neath My chassis is a Marsland galv item and it has the td5 style welded a-frame brackets, I assume it's more "td5" than 200 chassis, it just has the gearbox/engine and side tank mounts fitted to suit. My aim was to make it as standard-ish as possible but it looks like that theory is out the window, anyone else had these problems?
  10. Can you find the moulded plug with the corresponding colours feeding into the dash loom? The colours mentioned are for the instrument panel. I think the white/purple is the interior light feed on earlier models.
  11. Which model/year? Green/black fuel gauge, white/slate low fuel I think
  12. I am converting from lift up handle style doors to td5 push button doors and I'm wondering if anyone knows if the two uppermost holes from the lift up striker are in the correct place for the newer style strikers ? My tub and doors are a long way off from being fitted but I'd like to get the holes drilled through the new repair panels prior to any paintwork. I have the newer style strikers and rear plates ready to fit....just need to know where Cheers Scott
  13. The holes are for the side markers fitted to the NAS model, undecided whether to fit LED markers in there or cover them with the chequer plate
  14. The metal version, will stick more pics on the build thread I'll cut the filler opening tomorrow
  15. Thanks to the supplied pics I managed to knock up a mount in best blue peter fashion. Cardboard mock up to begin with And once my dire upload speed transfers the rest of the pics up I'll show the metal version Cheers again Western
  16. Those pics are exactly what I needed. Thanks very much!
  17. Yes it's worth a try. It's the roof of the housing that I'm more interested in. Is it arc'd to follow the opening or just flat across the top?
  18. Hi guys, got a request for some decent pics of a td5 90 fuel filler neck panel. I have NAS quarters to fit on my tub which ties in with the relocation and fitment of the td5 tank. I need to fabricate the filler neck mount, the lower and side panels look pretty straight forward but I need to see the top part to see if its curved or just flat...a google image search doesn't show any great detail. I do have the filler neck and also have a 130/hi-cap plastic filler (this screws on to the outside of the quarter but is no good on the 90 as the aperture is too close to the wheel arch. Any help appreciated Scott
  19. My 06 td5 XS loom was factory fitted for a 2 tab screen and the HFS relay was melting at the terminals due to current draw. My new screen is a 3 tab and I've split the load and feeds over 2 relays. Can't see an issue leaving the unused feed suitably insulated and tucked away for future use...but I'd keep an eye on the relay for signs of overheating.
  20. If all else fails the sissy route will happen. Logic would dictate it should be on the chassis loom, or at least the main bulkhead loom but after asking Les he has confirmed these switches are fed from the engine harness. I'm sure when they designed the td5 looms they didn't anticipate them being retrofitted to 27yr old defenders. More looms are in the post....yay!
  21. I've been gathering up the looms to carry out the conversion and I'm looking for some info. I have, the main(bulkhead),chassis,RH front wing/LH front wing/ battery to underseat fuse box link wire. I have traced and labelled everything common to the "standard" wiring ie lighting/ew/cdl/HFS/HRS and all the switchgear. The only missing items are the difflock switch, reverse light switch and speedo transducer connections. The difflock, transducer and reversing light multiplugs are definitely not on my chassis or main (bulkhead) loom. A search on the forums suggest it's fed from the engine loom and there also appears to be a link harness AMR5725 which has the speedo transducer connection. AMR5725 has an ecu multiplug, two 2pin plugs (similar to those on the ABS leads) and two econoseal type multiplugs, with a large grommet fitted. In order to utilise the "whole" td5 setup I will need an engine loom and the above link harness....I think....can anyone confirm this? I know most of the engine harness will be defunct unless connected to a td5, as are the ABS systems. I think it would possibly be easier to knock up a patch loom for the difflock/reversing switches, and I already have the econoseal plug for the speedo transducer. Following the wiring diagrams for the td5 seems to back this up, the transducer, difflock and reversing light wires all pass to multiplug C0162 which contains the oil pressure, alternator and other engine warning light feeds (14 way plug). They then pass to their respective multiplugs. I'm going cross eyed looking at wiring diagrams.....
  22. Which type of 70a relay are you using for a 3 tab screen? I've had a look about and can find 4pin ones but the only 5 pin 70a ones I've found are changeover relays. Did you just splice/piggy back for the second feed off the 4pin one? I have a spare td5 loom and was going to use this to rob another 40a relay/mount and give each element it's own relayed supply
  23. Thanks Les. I've ordered a cable tray so that should arrive tomorrow. I wasn't too keen on drilling the chassis but needs must. At the moment my fuel lines are cable tied through existing holes to the top of the chassis and if I was completely honest I wasn't too happy with this arrangement. Need to break the news to the wife that I'm buying another seatbox....lol
  24. How did you mount the basket tray to the chassis? Did you drill and rivnut and use the basket mounts? I have the old loom now removed and have got all the multiplugs tagged up (I think). Waiting on my front LHS wing loom to appear, battery to underseat fusebox cable is on order. So just the RHS front loom, rear door loom and engine loom to procure. The loom upgrade has as always led to another set of choices. With regards to the seat box, my 90 no longer has the side mount tank and with the upgrade to td5 looms this is ideal. I have new end panels for my old seat box with the drivers side freshly riveted on and the passengers side cleco pinned together My current train of thought is to stop refurbing the tdi seatbox and and source a td5 one, transferring the new ends to this as most appear to be corroded on the ones I've looked at. This would then give me suitable ecu/fusebox locations and almost factory spec. I realise the transmission tunnel mount needs swapped, so carefully removing the td5 one ( and keep for swapping back over) and refit the 200 version. I did look into the YRM battery and toolbox kits as I had considered these when the loom upgrade wasn't on the cards, the td5 box is the more cost effective option though.....yes I mentioned cost effective on a defender rebuild! That'll be the last...honest
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