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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. Thanks Paul. I'll fire off an order for some goodies
  2. Just read through this, I have a 3 terminal HFS to go into my 90, and have a 2006 td5 XS loom to fit too. I've labelled and traced most of the multiplugs/wiring and it looks as though I only have a two wire setup for the screen. (Black wire at one side, purple/slate 4mm2 at the other). I traced back through the looms to the relay for the HFS and this has a non OE spec 40a 4 pin relay installed ... What I did notice was signs of overheating on the rear multiplug. Should this have a 70amp relay fitted here? Looking at the multiplug it won't accommodate the larger blade connectors as fitted to the 70a relays I have looked at. I had a look on the ruskie microcat and the LR workshop parts catalogue but can't seem to find the rating for this. I have the timer as part of the OE loom so would it be advisable to upgrade the switching relay this while the loom is on the floor with dual feeds and a 70a relay/multiplug?
  3. Outside it is then. Will get the old one pulled out at the weekend. Cheers
  4. Well, the eBay gods have been kind, I now have winging my way a td5 xs main/bulkhead loom and a rear loom. I already have the td5 door looms. I had given up on the idea of the upgrade as decent 300 or even late blade style 200 looms were making strong money and was resigned to tweaking the existing. So, what are the thoughts on internal or external running of the chassis loom? At the moment the old loom is run per factory inside the chassis rail, but I've seen a fair few on here that have kept them on the top of the rail. I can see the benefit of fault finding and modifying if need be when place on top , whereas the only good part about it being run internally is the protection afforded by the box section.
  5. I was just happy to find a pair of doors that weren't completely shot! Still cost a pretty penny for a pair of td5 doors, they did come with wind deflectors ,e/w and Central locking although the alloy skins have a fair few dents, with only mild rust on the inner frames. Going by the loom dates they are 03 so not bad for 10yrs. Strangely enough there is no evidence of electrolytic corrosion on the skins.
  6. Thanks Rob, finding a defender in a breakers up in SW Scotland is a rarity, even ones that are total loss seem to be bought entirely and rebuilt. I've done a 200 to 300tdi loom swap when the bulkhead got swapped on the farm 110 pickup (it came with the bulkhead). I just wish now that I kept the loom from the 300tdi pickup donor....hindsight is a wondrous thing!
  7. Having looked extensively on loads of forums over the last few weeks regarding bulkheads, the tdci is the hardest to convert for use as a "standard" replacement. The major differences are: Dash is completely different, therefore the old style will not fit without modifications Heaterbox/matrix etc is also completely different No airvents Fly by wire throttle Wiper mechanism Wiring loom Gearbox tunnel opening Anything can be made to fit with enough, cutting welding and know how....a TD5 bulkhead would be the best bet
  8. Thanks for the advice. After looking for and pricing up the missing looms from the td5 setup it's not a very cost effective option, sourcing mismatched looms from eBay is a gamble and still isn't cheap. Ideally a complete donor vehicle would give up its wiring innards but I haven't the patience to wait! I think the 300 option is one to look into and may be more readily available Cheers
  9. I'm currently rebuilding my 200tdi and after spending countless hours fitting new footwells/a-pillars/feet I discovered the bulkhead had a bit of a twist (explains the mountain of cataloy in both the a-pillars). So, I sourced an early td5 bulkhead which I'm sending off to galv, but would like some thoughts on using the td5 loom. I only have the bulkhead loom (ymc000550) which is a non-abs loom with alarm . I got the dash less instrument cluster ( I have one and all the appropriate parts thanks to retroanacondas guide), but I don't have the the ecu or any other td5 based looms to go with it. My current loom is the old glass fuse model and I was going to replace the fuse box with a new blade type one if it was to be re-used, as well as adding the ancillary wiring for the e/w, cdl,heated front screen and seats, replacing the dodgy bullet connectors for new econoseal type ones as I go. So, with future upgrades in mind (ie a td5 engine at some point?), would sourcing a td5 chassis loom as well as the front and rear lighting looms be a wise upgrade? My new doors have leccy windows and central locking, plug and play would have been nice but not essential as these aren't the hardest to wire up. I have read Les Brock's rebuild thread comprehensively (stunning detail) and it's something similar wiring-wise I would like, I realise Les has the entire loom and ecus though. It would have been ideal to get the whole wiring setup with the bulkhead but I was just glad to get a solid one! Thoughts, opinions and advice welcome Scott
  10. Managed to get the adaptors out the new rad with the aid of some carefully applied heat! So the old hoses will be re-used....panic over. Lol
  11. Old thread reprisal here..... Similar to the original post, I have a new rad with the o-ring style adapters at the oil cooler end, I removed the flared adapters from the original rad with a view to swapping them over but there's no way the factory fit ones in the new rad are coming out without breaking or shearing. So after the usual trawling for info I bought the ESR1912/13 pipes as listed for the 200tdi....but they have o-ring ( metric) ends for the oil filter housing too so I have just moved the issue to the other end of the pipe! Looking at the parts diagram it lists nrc8618 with a crush washer to fit into the housing, however looking at images of the part it doesn't have the recess for an o-ring but is a female flare (conical) fitting. My original pipes are flared and screw directly into the filter housing without the need for adapters. Anyone know if you can get an adapter to fit? I assume that the OP didn't have an issue at the filter head? Any help greatly appreciated
  12. Thanks guys. A new cross drilled gear and transfer box rebuild kit is on its way from ashcrofts as we speak. Thanks for the offer Reb
  13. Hi guys, I'm looking for some opinions on the wear of my output shaft on the gearbox. It's by no means as bad as some of the pictures I've seen on here. I have my transfer box in bits to repair the difflock selector, and will be ordering the rebuild kit as well as a cross drilled input gear for the lt230. With the transfer box input gear on the rear of the box I have about 2mm play, however if I reverse the input gear so the "unworn" side of the spline engages on the gearbox I have very little (less than 1mm) play. Buying 2nd hand is a lottery, so rebuild or refurb are my options if its needed. . With a cross drilled input gear fitted will the wear on the gearbox shaft be minimised? It's a "H" suffix box. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated.
  14. Thanks Dave, I finally got hold of richards chassis this morning and have a set winging my way at the moment. Les, I have studied your setup in great detail....which is what made me decide my 4mm steel brackets were just not beefy enough! Thanks for the replies guys
  15. I am currently rebuilding my 90 onto a Marsland Chassis. This has the td5 rear crossmember and per the very helpful people at Marsland a 110 td5 towbar is required due to the 110 towbar bracing arms bolting onto the chassis. I am in the process of fitting the td5 tank to get rid of the old rusty side tank and the 110 style bracing arms will foul the tank due to the more direct angle to attach to the inner face of the chassis rails. I've looked at numerous pics of td5 90 towbars and only found one OE image that has the curved drop brackets to clear the tank but most of the other suppliers (witter/thule etc) do not. They just seem to have the slightly bent bracing arms that would lead to the outer face of the chassis and onto the brackets as shown in the pic below http://smg.photobucket.com/user/sawoodburn/media/91E1DB81-0EFA-418E-B950-A58E8B6EDE2F-503-000001B402B4DFC4_zps2e95d918.jpg.html'> anyone know if these are available separately?
  16. Sorry to go off topic, but where did you get your brackets? I'm sticking the td5 tank with the ROW sender into my 200tdi rebuild and have temporarily fabricated up some to hold the cradle, but the standard td5 items welded to the chassis look a lot heavier duty... albeit I'm not going to weld to my lovely new galv chassis. I've e-mailed Richards Chassis but not had a response.
  17. I am at the stage of doing a chassis swap myself. I had done one in the past with a similar ethos to you...quick changeover and re-use as much as possible. This was a 110 pickup, so it was logical to break it down into front/middle/rear in terms of bodywork removal. Axles were swapped, bushes were replaced as were the brake lines. It was however a means to an end and my current swap will take as long as necessary with most parts being restored or refurbed or replaced if possible. I always regret not getting the time to do the 110 the way I wanted and every time it comes back for a pre-MOT check I shake my head. Not everyone has the luxury of the time and space to do long rebuilds, I think your 80hour target is achievable if its a "swapover" job. I debated between Marsland and Richards, Marsland chassis are built the same as standard LR with weld seams top and bottom joining the 2 C channels (2mm), Richards are built from 4separate plates and are 3mm....so 1/3 heavier prior to galvanising. I opted for Marsland, very good to deal with and couldn't be more helpful on the phone.....it arrived today
  18. Well, after much deliberation and the lack of good 2nd hand bulkheads that are available with shipping to north of the border I have opted to repair my original 200tdi one. Be nice to see how the puma conversions work out...any pics of progress?
  19. really interested in what the more experienced re-builders say on this. Like the OP I too have a rotten 200tdi bulkhead requiring footwells and tops but don't know if its better to repair original and pump full of waxoyl, repair original and get dipped or find a good td5 donor. There have been a few puma ones crop up recently for reasonable money.
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