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Scotts90

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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. You'll need to remove the screen to do it properly. This isn't a straight forward or easy repair...first you'll need to drill out all the spot welds that hold the original pressing to the inner bulkhead strengtheners. There are spot welds all around the vent seal aperture (you'll have to delicately remove the mesh), and a few dotted about around the usual rot spots in the top corners (if they haven't rotted away). The spots welds on the top of the panel where the windscreen sits don't need to be drilled as I've found these repair panels are shorter on the top fold although this then requires a seam weld all along the top. You'll also need to remove the drip channel too. Best to tackle one side at a time to retain some shape, the wiper spindle holes can act as a datum for alignment as can the windscreen mount holes (if they haven't rusted away!) Its time consuming for sure.... Spots drilled... Youll also need to refit the bonnet hinges which are spot plug welded on, the vent flap hinges were slightly out on the ones I fitted so these had to be removed and welded back on.
  2. I've got a couple, one a Clarke and the other from SGS engineering, they will both hold fully assembled engines using the same methods as described. At the moment my td5 complete engine is on the SGS one...and yes rotating it is not easy on the stand as they are top heavy...so once it's going it could do some damage. Add that to the height from pivot may mean they won't go 180°. The td5 won't go all the way around and it's very heavy to get upright again.
  3. 10AS is there in the pic, the green module behind all the wires that's fixed to the bulkhead. The part number usually reveals which options it's configured for (alarm/central locking/immobiliser). A search on everyone's favourite auction site for "10AS" usually finds a guy that advertises reprogramming and fitment of the internal relays to the unit to allow all functions.
  4. Were you out enjoying the fine Scottish weekend weather? Passed you on the A737 outside Beith on Sunday...I was in a mundane Transit so you wouldn't have noticed. The 110 was looking well
  5. I had to bond a length of aluminium box section to the centre of the roof to fit mine (I have an externally ribbed roof too). The rear above door panel should go into brackets with fir tree fasteners but mine is a really tight fit so I didn't feel the need to fabricate any. The rear grab handles on mine are drilled through the inner lip with self tapping screws so require no brackets, I also made up some filler panels for the alpine light cutouts. Not the best of pics but you should just be able to make out the box section running front to back from the inner rib, the roof loom is clipped to this. fitted up. DIY filler panels for the alpine lights.
  6. Non ABS/TC td5s had the wiring bridged out as part of the loom, that's what mine has.
  7. I had a good chat with the guys from Shielder at a recent show. They had both a 90 chassis and bulkhead on display and whilst solid I reckon some tweaking may be required...still, as Landrover owners thats nothing new! Nice guys to talk to, they were going to pick up some series bulkheads to deconstruct with the view to replicating those models too.
  8. Yes I'm sure, my tub brackets are still bolted in place, never removed anything to lift the tub off...I did go out and check to make sure I hadn't taken one bolt out but both rusty originals still tightly in place. My original td5 chassis didn't have the earlier angle chassis to body mounts fitted either. If you look at the pics Paime posted up there are no brackets from tub to chassis either.
  9. The td5 anchors don't use those brackets that sit on the chassis member, the ones you bought bolt through the tub. So, you'll have the two holes lined up looking down through the seatbox and this should then tie into the tub. If it's a td5 seatbox and an earlier tub then you'll have to drill holes in the tub.
  10. I have the lt77 seat box, with the "hump" and also have the Wright off-road matting...it definitely doesn't cover it and I can't remember if I cut it out...don't think I did as I can only remember doing the cutouts for the below seat access panels. I'll check in the morning.
  11. Very nice, on my shopping list too. The removable bases just make life easier than fixed seats. It's not as if you require access under the seats on a regular basis but it's usually when something has popped a fuse or fault finding you need in there...having to remove an entire seat (or two)would be a pain in the derrière. Get some pics up once they're installed
  12. They don't. The brackets bolt up to the same member on the tub that the outriggers attach to. I assume they worked out it was strong enough for the loading.
  13. My 200tdi has the td5 looms and the 10AS works just fine without an engine ECU. I have remote central locking on all 3 doors as well as the alarm features. The only thing I had to do was get my mate to activate the interior light on the 10AS which can be programmed through the td5 OBD port.
  14. Here's a pic of my td5 seatbox during strip down. You'll see the same rigid style buckle anchor as Dan has pictured, the long protruding brackets from the tub (in my pic with the tub dangling in mid air) are where these are bolted through the seatbox. My 200tdi is all anchored via the tub with flexi stalks but the td5 differs. So the brackets in the pics by paime are what you need for the anchors (the ones with the cables tagged on) to suit the td5 tub/seatbox
  15. Pic of the older style fitted to my 200tdi chassis, bolted on top of the crossmember...
  16. Not the best of pics, but the you'll see those brackets on the cills on my old chassis... The two new bolts in your pic need removed to allow the captive studs to go up through your seatbox and then the inertia reel us secured to this. On the clip/buckle side depending on year you'll have two large brackets protrude from the tub...you'll see them sticking out in this pic just where the chain is resting... The earlier ones had these type of chassis brackets... https://yrmit.co.uk/product/seatbelt-to-chassis-bracket-hot-dip-galvanised-land-rover-defender/
  17. No, galv won't affect your earths...loads of primer and raptor etc will if it's not cleaned off to allow good metal to metal contact for earth straps.
  18. Scotts90

    TD5 110

    Those are MG Rover wheels with a badge stuck on. You only need one peg to locate in the blue cancelling ring for it to operate.
  19. Pretty sure these are the similar style recaros as fitted to the Twisted models. Had my butt in one last weekend and ooh they were comfy, they had removable bases similar to OE. If you look at these ones... https://www.lrisolutions.co.uk/part-suede-leather-heated-recaro-pair-front-seats-fit-land-rover-defender-90-110.html and scroll through the pics you'll see the base removed, it's a pin/hole set up rather than the rod/clip of standard bases.
  20. I painted my door frames fully prior to attaching the new Ali skins, the OE has bare steel frames bonded sparingly onto the skin...just enough to trap water and start some nice reactions. Used PU body sealant to seal and bond the frames to the skin after which some silentcoat deadening was applied. 4yrs so far and no bubbles...
  21. Oh I wish! School holidays, shifts and 24hr call out all make "90 time" a lot less than I'd like, add to that I still seem to be finding stuff I want to add to the white one. It'll get there....
  22. Using a half decent gun does help, and patience! Waiting for coats to flash off when you're relying on ambient temp can lead to the temptation to load another coat on too soon. I really enjoy spraying, it gives enormous satisfaction when it all turns out well! good luck!
  23. MWC1480 rhs, MWC1481 lhs. Google is your friend lol
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