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Scotts90

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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. I got a good look at their td5 D2 chassis and it's not without its issues. Solid? Yes. To the quality of the other two main suppliers? Not yet. (I know Marslands don't do d2), there were a few areas of concern on fit and placement but nothing insurmountable. However, at the price point it has saved another otherwise sound Land Rover. Haven't seen any of their bulkheads, but having seen some of Ashtrees bulkheads I didn't rate their repairs very highly. If it's an all new build then it's all down to how good their jig is!
  2. To be home built makes it even more impressive.
  3. Are you using the 12/19j (old td) loom? This didn't have a glow plug relay fitted, the 200tdi engine did. The td loom used a brown/red wire direct from the ignition barrel (it's got a pre heat stage between ign and crank)...It looks like the one to the right of your plug in the last pic, it's a heavy gauge wire (4mm2 iirc)
  4. As we've mentioned several times, buying a dead/dying example with valid ID and using good parts from your 110 as a donor will always be the easier route regardless of what wheelbase you decided to do. Just to clarify. You are destroying the damaged vehicle, you will not/cannot re-register it. Anything you decide to do outwith rebuilding a wreck (but not a write off) will require Q-plate and IVA
  5. Ok, I'll be the first...do you think it'll be out before the "new" defender? Lol It's going to be another one that you'll need to read the badge to tell what it is as they're all merging into the same style
  6. I think he's just running halogens, no mention of LED units. Have you checked the battery voltage as suggested earlier ?
  7. Ok, simply put everything from the b pillar back. 110 specific: Props , rear axle, fuel tank, chassis loom, fuel lines, brake lines, exhaust, rear tub, sills. Roof lining, roof. Side panels, shocks, springs, brake system Swappable, full front end (wings, grill, bonnet,screen), front doors. Seat box, front floor plates. Engine/loom, gearbox/transfer box, lights, 90 specific: rear tub, roof, chassis loom, fuel lines props sills, side panels. Brake system, exhaust system. Suspension Its not a definitive list by any means but anything that’s longer won’t fit (ok some “may” with mods) other items are different due to a 110s extra weight although they may look identical.
  8. That was my understanding too. A-destroyed, B-break only. As for my previous comment about selling the 110...that’s a moot point now you’ve told us it’s an old CatB that requires a certificate of destruction, however the rationale remains. It’s now only a parts car. You are technically just building a 90 from scratch using parts from a breaker...not “rebuilding as a 90” so you’ll have no ID and it’ll require SVA and all the associated issues that goes with it. Cat A & B still exist. Cat C was replaced by S for structural damage and Cat D was replaced by N for Non-structural. Both are still “write-offs” but only the S required reapplying for a V5. My mate repairs salvage stuff for a living.
  9. Replaced the nylon hoses (tank to filter head) on both td5 D2s I had due to them chafing through, may not rot but still prone to failure. Complete swine of a job! You can get the QR clips on eBay for £2 ea but of the usual Chinese unbranded spec. Do you have a link for the Puma ones?
  10. I've camped for many years with a normal tent and thoroughly enjoyed it. The roof tent is very easy to live with...cover off, unfold and fit 4 stays. Never timed but less than 5mins and the bedding is already inside. No need to find the smooth or good ground and in the inevitable British downpours being swamped with floodwater isn't a concern. (Been there, done that lol) Took a trip down to Kirkcudbrightshire last week and although we had the only rooftent it was a green oval nirvana, D3, D4 a few RRS and a couple of defenders were all in our area camping.
  11. Rebuild the 110 as is, make a little profit...buy a 90.
  12. My fuel hoses are pushed onto the sender pipes and secured with fuel pipe clips...not the standard pain in the **** fuel pipe connections.
  13. Does the radio cut out when you flash main beam?
  14. If one of your upgraded light circuits appears to cause the fault then I'd be looking closer at that. Try swapping relays over to rule them out, then check the connections on that particular circuit. If it's drawing more current as Peaklander suggests then poor connections can cause this. Has this just started or has it been an ongoing issue since upgrading?
  15. Aye...something with a bit of flex may be a better idea.
  16. I think it's mentioned on Les Brocks' ground up rebuild thread as he fitted the td5 tank too, cutting an access hatch in the process. I didn't bother , if need be I'll just drill the rivets off the floor...it's just a sender unit so the worst it's going to be is a knackered fuel gauge unlike a td5 that has the pump unit. It may be more beneficial on the td5 build to have an access panel. As for the cradle it's not so much as a problem, just one of those jobs that needs some thoughtful jacking/propping/supporting...more so with a full tank. The tank itself is a snug fit in between the chassis legs with some wiggling required to get the filler neck up through the gap for the body support.
  17. My td5 roof has one fitted, just the factory glass wind up job. This is the seal for my style https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/100599/0/sunroof_seal_twist_style_sunroof_defender Just a foam type seal sandwiched between the frame and roof. I'll be removing mine to paint as someone has made a right mess of painting/masking around it. Will no doubt regret it as the self tappers will probably shear on removal !
  18. Genuine battery box in steel (puma spec) from the dealer is about £85 over here in the uk. For the extra £15 I'd get the YRM one in aluminium. It's got more space for "accessories" and won't rust out again!
  19. Got out for a spot of camping with my son in the 90 to try out the roof tent. The British Isles has some beautiful scenery... all within a few hours drive. The tent coped well, I'm glad I reproofed it prior to our trip as it poured down all night. Hopefully we'll get up further North next week for another outing.
  20. Stripping and replacing swivels isn't the worst...clearing the mess created by the one shot grease pouring out is!
  21. What size tungsten did you use for that? I find the TIG still fires a fair amount of heat into stuff when the Amps are wound up, the trusses look like a nice piece of kit though. one question...wtf do you need to bolt with a M125??
  22. Got a finished quote for £148 incl Vat and delivery. A remarkable hike from the original price but given they are having to hand stitch in the buckles and Velcro corner tabs it's a bit more labour intensive than a standard "box". It'll take a couple of weeks to get made so when it arrives I'll get some pics up. It would have cost similar money to purchase the howling moon cover which wasn't going to be a straight fit.
  23. Yes I know, this particular axle runs taper bearings.
  24. Rather than start another whole new thread, I thought I'd add some info into this as it covers almost all the bases. My 90 had developed the cursed wobble at 50mph some time ago and I eventually got around to checking both preloads, something that hadn't been checked since the axle was rebuilt. Initial "pull" tests with the seal in place was between 0 and 0.4kg...very loose but no play at all. Book specs with no seal are between 1.16 and 1.46kg so definitely requiring a tweak. Couldn't find any official numbers for preload with the seal insitu but an Australian LR site recommended adding 2-2.5kg on for the seal. 3shims out the Nearside and 2 out the Offside saw both pulling at 3-5 - 4kg and they felt smooth and not overly tight or binding on the bearings. One 30min test drive later and they steering is the best it's been for ages and most of all... No wobble!!
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