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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. What size tungsten did you use for that? I find the TIG still fires a fair amount of heat into stuff when the Amps are wound up, the trusses look like a nice piece of kit though. one question...wtf do you need to bolt with a M125??
  2. Got a finished quote for £148 incl Vat and delivery. A remarkable hike from the original price but given they are having to hand stitch in the buckles and Velcro corner tabs it's a bit more labour intensive than a standard "box". It'll take a couple of weeks to get made so when it arrives I'll get some pics up. It would have cost similar money to purchase the howling moon cover which wasn't going to be a straight fit.
  3. Yes I know, this particular axle runs taper bearings.
  4. Rather than start another whole new thread, I thought I'd add some info into this as it covers almost all the bases. My 90 had developed the cursed wobble at 50mph some time ago and I eventually got around to checking both preloads, something that hadn't been checked since the axle was rebuilt. Initial "pull" tests with the seal in place was between 0 and 0.4kg...very loose but no play at all. Book specs with no seal are between 1.16 and 1.46kg so definitely requiring a tweak. Couldn't find any official numbers for preload with the seal insitu but an Australian LR site recommended adding 2-2.5kg on for the seal. 3shims out the Nearside and 2 out the Offside saw both pulling at 3-5 - 4kg and they felt smooth and not overly tight or binding on the bearings. One 30min test drive later and they steering is the best it's been for ages and most of all... No wobble!!
  5. You could take the gamble and try rebuilding one out of the two. The seal replacement kits tend to fail as the part where the seal lands on the shaft tends to be worn and pitted. If it's been a good dry unit then I can't see why it wouldn't work. I got an alledgedly rebuilt unit for the white one which didn't last...a refurb unit varies from about £250 up. I ended up "borrowing" the 250k td5 one which still remains as dry as a bone (yes, there's fluid in it lol). I'll just save my pennies and buy a new one as it appears to be the only way to guarantee no leaks.
  6. Well, say what we all like about the blue boxes but my Teflon coated swivels are 4yrs on and still look fresh, no fitment issues either. I did buy the OEM kit that supplies corteco seals and timken bearings.
  7. The company I contacted was Kustom Covers and they've been more than helpful. I sent through the dimensions as requested and got a quote of £49 to create a standard cover but as I had explained it wasn't actually a sandpit cover but for a rooftent they asked for some pics and details. Turns out they are willing to recreate the OE cover with the Velcro corner tabs and top buckle straps so I'm just waiting on an amended quote as its a bit more complex than first quoted. I will update as things progress
  8. Thanks for the offer, I've ordered one online from a cover maker....which can only be best described as a sandpit cover but made from nice heavy lorry tarp. It's not expensive so should do until I hear back from the manufacturers (not holding ones breath )
  9. Thanks for that. I’ll take a run up to the local marina that has a chandlery/sail making shop and see what they can do. 😉
  10. It's a fairly comprehensive "tweak" to the tub...the kit includes the recessed skins for inside the tub as well as the strengtheners that go underneath and the chassis brackets. It's as close to factory as possible
  11. I'm hoping after 8yrs the OP has finished lol
  12. My roof tent cover has seen better years, I've tried the uk importer of the tent with no joy...they say they're still waiting on the manufacturer getting back to them but it's been a month now. At approx 1.3m square x 0.25m high it's an odd size compared to the competitors (that would have been too easy ). It's an Echo4x4, made in South Africa which seems to be quite a popular point of origin, their website isn't much help either. Anyone used a "bespoke" cover manufacturer or know a tent repairer that could make one up? My fall back option is a howling moon one at 1.4m tweaked to fit.
  13. I cut a chunk from mine and bonded it back together. I had the same issue that as the seal compressed it didn't do it in a uniform manner and ended up squeezing itself out at one side. Seems to have worked...no leaks in 4yrs
  14. My van has a 24” eBay £50 Chinese special with the flood/spot combo lenses. It’s been on 3yrs and still works perfectly. The van used to sport a pair of Hella Rallye 3000s too which were great but not the same spread as the lightbar
  15. Re my lightbar. It's individually switched, the pic is on my driveway (farm road end). The bonnet glare is due to then pic from inside the cab. No issues when being used off-road. Every time these questions are raised the C&U regs are touted...pretty sure there will be more serious contraventions done to land rovers than a set of lights.
  16. Ok trawled the d2 td5 electrical library... Brown/pink and an Orange?? Going by your pic and the one above this is it...however the cct code means it's on Japanese spec vehicles only...so maybe it wasn't connected at all?
  17. Well, none of those colours tie in with the defender looms. Only green multiplug of that type under the bonnet goes where I said previously. Looked through the >02 onwards electrical library and couldn't find another green plug of that type.
  18. I had Rallye 3000s across the front of the 90 with osram night breakers fitted and they were very good... Plenty bright... but in response to your led lightbar query... they are no where near as good as my Rigid lightbar...it has Scanias dipping their lights miles away lol The lightbar wasn't cheap, but neither were the 3000s.
  19. On re-installing the dash I fitted a cable duct to ease fishing cables from one end to the other so save a bit of stripping. I have the under wing washer bottle so plenty of free space. Like you I fitted my control switch upside down on the first attempt
  20. It's a pressure reduction valve so it won't boost anything. Fitted on 90 models to stop the rears from being over braked, it's a ball that moves inside to limit flow to the rear circuit dependent on vehicle attitude under deceleration.
  21. Mine is on the front, my wiring runs along the inside of the dash above the heater plenum and then out the near side grommet...
  22. Yes, great piece of kit. A bit short on the loom for RHD models as it was designed for the LHD blower unit. It's plug and play on td5 looms, I'll be getting another unit for project 2.
  23. Colour of fluid and pics may help..."transmission fluid" usually means red/brown depending on state so could be from the powersteering pipes/steering box or from the gearbox itself. The transfer box has EP90 (be it whatever grade) so is the usual yellow/gold colour with pungent smell. Hard to say without looking, wipe everything clean as best you can then see what develops!
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