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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. Yes that's the one
  2. I'll echo that. My Clarke has survived abuse and done a lot of welding over the last 18yrs (150 amp model) so don't discount them. I keep threatening to replace it but it still plods away and for a budget/DIY spec machine it can lay down some nice welds.
  3. Absolutely chuffin fantastic! Beautifully done Ross with great detail. I doff my virtual cap, sir
  4. Pin 1Black (earth) pin2 Brake (Green/Purple) pin3 tail light (red/orange RHS)/(red/black LHS)
  5. No there's no requirement to bridge it out. I have full XS td5 looms, including using as much of the td5 engine loom as possible. No inertia switch installed or bridged, on the td5 it feeds the ecu and fuel pump relay...as the tdi uses neither it serves no purpose.
  6. Don't want to state the "bleedin" obvious...but that pic with the ratchet attached shows you have the caliper fitted upside down as I can just see the nipple cover at the bottom of the pic. The change in orientation may give you the very minimal clearance that there appears to be on Westerns pics.
  7. As yet no one seems to produce an inner repair section for the vent and screen mount area. You get extended footwell sections that take you up to just under the fold, above that it's good old fashioned cardboard and sheet metal, combined with copious quantities of tea and swearing...with a bit of welding and grinding too. Seen worse, repaired worse...as have many on here.
  8. page 10, about half way down and you'll see the 11L stripped of its timing case and a list of the bits needing swapped.
  9. The 3 wire one is for your blower/heater
  10. The orange/green orange purple plug is for the passive coil
  11. It slides over the part of barrel at the key slot, it’s shaped to match the td5/tdci barrel so will only fit one way
  12. Yes that’s it. 😉
  13. I did exactly as western suggested, changing the timing chest and ancillaries over to turn the disco (12L) into a defender (11L). Not the hardest thing to do but time consuming. Just remember to crack the crank pulley bolt before stripping the engine out...then you’ll only have to swear at removing the one from the donor engine
  14. Yes it is. Mine had gone porous
  15. Just to add some further info on your 10AS. If the immobiliser is programmed “on” and the fob is paired then you will need the transponder coil (AMR4897) that goes around the ignition barrel. This is required to allow the immobiliser to receive the proper signals to disarm when its in the proximity of the coil. Obviously you’ll need the fob to have a battery installed for it to operate. Failure to have this part of the circuit won’t allow the starter relay to energise and kick the starter. Not all 10AS or td5 looms were configured for immobilisation, it depends on the spec
  16. What state is the fuel filter head in?
  17. I’ve got the MY12 workshop manual, produced 11/05/2011 and it only covers the 2.2 ID4...so the published MY12 wiring diagram is showing 10/2011....should be the 2.2 as well. Or in true LR fashion it’s a best guess.
  18. Hmm. My 2012 wiring diagram shows fuse F5 as a 20A...going no where. Not much help. Connector number is C0570C-16, C0570 is a generic under fusebox connector Fuse f5p is a 5A shown as going to “heater-engine breather”
  19. You’ll need to programme the 10AS to allow the interior lights to work. That’s what I had to do in mine (full td5 XS looms with a 200tdi) The OBD plug on your td5 loom will allow this to be carried out using a suitable device
  20. I have had the Britpart upgrade kit fitted for a few years too without issue. My Lucas 65a munched belts whereas the blue box item has required none.
  21. When you take off the old cable covers below the drip rail it’ll become obvious. The round cable exit just above the bell housing becomes defunct as all fusebox wiring goes through the top two large grommets.
  22. Don’t think you can really get around the glow plugs issue. If you’ve replaced the barrel (I think you asked about that in another thread) then you don’t have the “hold” option, only way is to fit an ignition triggered timer relay for the plugs. The large grommets fit in the bulkhead apertures and have the appropriate holes for the heater Bowden cables, a squirt of wd40 helps the grommets ease in.
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