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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. Scotts90

    nas rear step with detachable tow hitch

    As far as I know you won’t get a Dixon bate style detachable/drop plate style NAS step. You can get a step with the 2” receiver style box which will allow you to swap attachments. I did read somewhere recently that defenderupgrades are selling fully UK towing certified NAS steps so may be worth dropping them an email.
  2. Scotts90

    Defender wheel tracking

    Better to measure to the rim (assuming it’s the same as the front). Different tyres, pressure, condition (as mentioned) and load may cause the sidewall to flex differently from the front.
  3. Scotts90

    wheel/tyre/offset help!?

    Standard boosts are et35 if memory serves, going to an et8 will give you 27mm of movement towards the outer arch. My boosts on 265/75 have a 30mm spacer giving the equivalent of an et5 (the spacer effectively moves the mounting face to almost the centre of the wheel) ET0 and ET10 are quite common offsets in aftermarket modulars/alloys.
  4. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    Ynn000332 lists as a td5 130 loom so probably won’t have rear tailgate wiring. The black oval plug with the purple/white wires is for the fuel pump and sender unit. A plug-n-play 7-pin towbar loom is about £40
  5. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    Yes, the large grey plug with orange insert is for the towing elecs . Wiper electrics will be dependent on which loom you have. If it’s configured for it then you should have a natural coloured plug along with the nsr light plugs. This does the wiper/wash functions, oddly enough the remote central locking for the tail door (again if configured) comes from the roof part of the loom.
  6. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    same as puma models too
  7. Scotts90

    Puma dash and bulkhead onto 2002 td5

    Defenderupgrades are advertising full functionality with puma dash instruments on td5/tdi equipped vehicles. No prices listed, just a "contact for info" page
  8. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    Nicely done. FYI the reason the LED is “solid” and not flashing is down to the alarm thinking the doors are open (pin switches) if you have the immobiliser activated (as indicated on the dash panel) then you’ll need the pick up ring for around the ignition barrel so that the fob can disable the immobiliser when in close enough proximity. With regards to the plugs above, they are different pin/plug arrangements so won’t interchange as the guide slots are in different orientations iirc...making them different colours just makes it easier to identify.
  9. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    Not just that simple, if you have the bulkhead loom part number it will tell you the spec of the vehicle it came from. There are numerous permutations, from basic to fully loaded XS spec.
  10. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    As above for the under seat relays. And yes, the brown one on the main fuse panel does the alarm/sounder
  11. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    without seeing the wire feeds... yellow main ignition relay or cooling fan black either ABS or glow plug depends on loom
  12. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    The fob doesn't have a red light, just two buttons. Do you have the td5 clocks? These have the alarm indicator led built into the speedo so would show what it's doing. This won't be an easy thing to bench test as it reads inputs for the pin switches (doors and bonnet) and will signal a circuit fault. It doesn't need the power sounder fitted as it will activate the horn.
  13. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    Should do, not all 10AS are configured the same way though. Mine has full activation for immobiliser, interior sensors, pin switches and central locking. Depends on what spec of vehicle the unit came from, some don't have the internal relay for the locking but this can be retrofitted.
  14. Scotts90

    mpg for 300tdi 110csw

    I get between 25 and 30 on the 90 200tdi. Running 265/75 BFG MT. and a standard 1.41 transfer box with roof rack/winch&bumper and a shedload if sound deadening. That’s mainly small runs, on a 30 mile trip to Glasgow it’s better unless you chase it on. It really just likes sitting about 60, it’s just shy of 3000rpm at 70.
  15. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    If you get busy with some card and a ruler you can knock up a template so they clip in factory style.... Worked out fine on my 200 wings.
  16. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    Yes, it needs the AS10 unit installed (and the interior light activated using a suitable diagnostic tool)
  17. Scotts90

    Cost of TD5 Defender R380 work

    Just the standard one...the original is on 254k so it's lasted well, currently stripped for rebuild so clutch etc being done as part of the restoration.
  18. Scotts90

    Cost of TD5 Defender R380 work

    It's time consuming as you need to strip the carpets, floors and tunnel to access the bellhousing. From then on its straightforward removal of props, wiring etc to slide the box back to disengage it. Ultimately safer and easier on a ramp with transmission jacks and a couple of bodies to lend a hand. However, many have done these in their own garages and driveways but be aware that the 380 and 230 are a very heavy lump and not easy to balance on the likes of a trolley jack.
  19. Scotts90

    Cost of TD5 Defender R380 work

    I'd have guessed at around the £1,000 mark. 7hrs labour at £70+ an hour plus parts ( they'll bill you for fluid, new clutch slave hose, possibly new prop nuts/bolts) so they're not overly expensive. A clutch kit isn't the expensive part, the DMF is. I bought these this week!
  20. Scotts90

    Cost of TD5 Defender R380 work

    For an OE (LUK/Valeo) clutch kit and DMF supply only you're looking circa £400. Slave cylinder about £25 (AP) and about a days labour at a garage. If you're competent and can get around the logistics of dropping the gearbox and transfer box then it's perfectly doable in a day.
  21. Scotts90

    Has anybody used a Terrain Tech bulkhead before?

    https://www.terraintechparts.com/collections/land-rover-chassis-chassis-bulkheads/products/land-rover-defender-110-200tdi-galvanised-chassis-bulkhead-assembly Pretty sure they are supplying Shielder bulkheads...its Shielder ones shown in their pics. A search of this forum and defender2 will provide some opinions on the quality.
  22. Scotts90

    300tdi misfires on first startup

    Take it back to the place that rebuilt it? Were the injectors refurbed/tested at the rebuild stage? Could have a weeping injector...
  23. Scotts90

    Td5 looms into a earlier pre 1991 vehicle

    Yes to both
  24. Scotts90

    welding lessons.

    Pretty much the same advice as Ed and HoSS, steel is a lot slower so gives you time to perfect your feed/dipping technique, stainless gives good results for a newbie too. I have had my TIG for a few years and I can do passable welds, fabricate brackets etc but it'll never match a MIG if you need to carry out welds on less than clean/sound surfaces or in awkward positions. Being in a comfortable position (seated helps) and being able to carry out the weld in a smooth manner is key (if you can't you'll end up dipping the tungsten or losing the arc). Aluminium. When it goes well...it's great. A nightmare when it doesn't! Practice on thicker material running beads across plates. This gives you an idea of how much current is required to start a puddle and then just keep it going by modulating your pedal. Once you have a good grasp of this you can start to introduce filler as and when necessary. It's very much a hands on practice skill for technique, the Miller site has an app which will give you tungsten diameters, filler rod size and amperage settings for different materials and thicknesses (aimed at Miller machines but good enough for a starting point). Don't weld in a draughty area as losing the shielding gas creates some really poor welds.
  25. Scotts90

    Joddler/Joggler and hole punch

    I bought a Sealey version a good few years ago when rebuilding a tractor, the punch broke at its pivot not long after purchase. Really should've taken it back but it still functioned (and still does), I just need to push the punch back down as it won't retract. The flange setting is fine on mine with 1.0mm material but struggles to produce a decent rebate on 1.6mm, so depends on what your needs are. iirc mine was about £50

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