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Everything posted by Scotts90

  1. Scotts90

    Chinese diesel Heater under seat on a 110.

    My D2 airtronic in my Transit just died on Monday, blower failure. Not bad after 3854hrs in a very poor environment! This is its first hiccup in 6yrs so I'd class that as reliable. Being refurbed overnight and will be refitted in the morning...just in time for the snow and ice to hit. I'd have no qualms in sticking one in the 90, although it's blessed with a pretty good heater oddly enough.
  2. Scotts90

    Windscreen Woes

    Genuine LR on mine with no trimming, I think you may be surprised by how much it will form onto the windscreen. From memory mine was quite loose around the screen. The outer edge has to overlap the screen frame by a good 10-15mm all the way around and in your pic it's not even close to being seated. Similar when you remove/replace door seals, you always think it's going to be too long but manipulating and gentle persuading usually means they fit fine,
  3. Scotts90

    Wiring loom damage

    Rather than prising the connector apart...the yellow face unclips and slides out (this locks the pins in place), then use a terminal tool or suitably thin implement to lift the small tabs that hold the individual pins in, they will then pull out from the rear. New Pins/sockets are readily available allowing you to retain the factory plugs once the broken wires are repaired. I think I have an EGR. equipped 300tdi loom hiding in the shed, I’ll try and dig it out and get a look at the plugs concerned to see if it’s any help
  4. Scotts90

    Wiring loom damage

    I agree with Ian, for the most part that looks like an extra DIY loom. Can’t remember seeing an OE loom using “banded” wiring, it usually has a tracer colour. You don’t have much going to the “back” of a standard 90/110. Both indicators, both stop and both tail, fog,reverse. In the middle you’ll have a difflock switch, reverse light switch and possibly Handbrake switch. These will feed from the plugs on the bulkhead down into the chassis loom (which then disappears into the chassis leg). What fuses blew when that got ripped out? Would be a rough indicator of affected circuits... oh and more pics would help
  5. Scotts90

    footwell repair to do after MOT pick up

    Gives you plenty time to practice gluing metal together with electrickery
  6. Scotts90

    A few queries about my Defender project

    Yes, it's a very valid comment too. I tend to find that a high percentage of rebuild and restoration costs come down to labour as not everyone has the means/methods or indeed time to carry out extensive repairs. That's where if you are able to do all the work it makes perfect sense to repair these types of projects.
  7. Scotts90

    200Tdi Head Bolts

    Go gently with the t/stat housing bolts.
  8. My 2012 Transit does this, has done from new and 180k further in it still does it. Never an issue on braking efficiency and I'm pretty sure it's mentioned in the drivers handbook.
  9. Scotts90

    Coolant marks

    The elbow off the pump on mine had a habit of sweating for a while after being disturbed. It wicked its way down the timing case and pooled at the crank.
  10. Scotts90

    200Tdi Head Bolts

    Hmm I was told 3 times, can't remember from where though...
  11. Scotts90

    Where would I have put ignition live to ms ?

    Cranking live would be a starter feed, not much else is triggered from the crank position. Never dealt with MS, does it require a crank feed prior to maintaining power to the pump etc? (Like ye olde Vauxhall motronic?)
  12. Ok, had a measure off my rebuilt one which I made a jig to capture key points from the OE, so mine is as close to the original as my rudimentary engineering skills can muster... Sides taken as looking from rear (as you will be LHD?) left side: 17mm from top, 36mm in. 57mm from top, 37mm in. right side: 17mm from top, 35mm in. 58mm from top, 36mm in. So, almost the same as yours. I only have 8mm holes in mine for the later type one piece hinge blocks although it should be a larger hole similar to yours.
  13. Scotts90

    A few queries about my Defender project

    Of course it is! Trying to get project defenders for sensible cash is proving very hard. I've seen a lot worse than what's pictured above going for £2-3k, if you're handy with a spanner and like most of us have a healthy collection of bits it make perfect sense to rescue and restore these.
  14. Scotts90

    A few queries about my Defender project

    As far as your axle is concerned, the assemblies are the same. The ABS sensor is down through the top pin but the housings are unchanged. On my basket case 90 it was the wheel bearings that had collapsed... If the disco axle is in good order then swap the whole lot, if your overhauling it then swap over to the standard discs and calipers at the time, fit a non-ABS top pin. Some discos had 3bolt flanges on the diffs IIRC, easy enough to change to 4 though. As for the anti roll bars. If they are fitted and faulty (ie worn bushes/broken links) then it’ll fail the MOT, if they’re not fitted then it’s not part of the test. Why aren’t they on as standard? Your guess is as good as mine...
  15. +/- 2mm is great by LR standards. Will try and grab some measurements tomorrow, have you tried the hinges to see if they fit ok? It's not too hard to sit the windscreen on and loosely run up the brackets.
  16. Scotts90

    Problems with heated front screen 90XS

    I found that my HFS relay at the fuse box was showing signs of overheating when I did the rebuild, I have a 3 tab screen so fitted a pair of relays to supply each "side" of the screen...not really an option on a two tab.
  17. Scotts90

    Problems with heated front screen 90XS

    It's not the simplest of circuits to follow. The OE timer relay is extortionate so the retrofit option is to use one from the likes of VWP, this requires altering the inner workings of the standard push switch from a switched negative to a switched positive. Anyway, if it's still all factory you have a relay at the fusebox panel at the transmission tunnel (this supplies power to your windscreen tab). The timer relay is located behind the dash/instruments. The factory setup won't allow the HFS circuit to energise unless the engine is running as it requires a signal from the oil pressure switch to confirm its running (wh/br wire). The timer unit monitors the switch position via the pink/orange wire. When you push the switch, this creates an earth path (black wire) and assuming the timer relay is getting signals from the ign feed (fuse 15, white/green wire) and the oil pressure switch it energises the timer relay, turns on the tell-tale and sends power down the the fusebox relay on a purple/yellow wire. The circuit diagram is below if you can follow it.
  18. Scotts90

    TDCi Puma engine shut down (intermittent)

    A neighbour of mine is having similar issues with his tdci. Loads of algae/sludge in the tank and fuel lines were found. It’s in for it’s 3rd session of flushing. Seems to affect the tdci more than the td5.
  19. Scotts90

    footwell repair to do after MOT pick up

    Don't want to jump on the negativity bandwagon but I think we expected something more professional. But as said as long as you're happy and its solid that's what matters. Why the seam weld down the A-pillar? Puddle welding the original spots would have been neater and closer to spec.
  20. Scotts90

    heated seat testing

    Nope, in the lumbar area on the backrest
  21. Scotts90

    Land Rover Owner International magazine

    Cool. Always nice to have your pride and joy immortalised in ink.
  22. Scotts90

    heated seat testing

    This little blighter here... I purchased two as they were so expensive http://sinolec.co.uk/en/normally-closed-thermostats-loose-bracket/399-thermostat-50-closed.html
  23. Scotts90

    heated seat testing

    I had to solder in a new thermo switch on my OE heated seat element. Hardest part was gently peeling the element from the foam as it was glued on. Switch was only a couple of quid from an electronics supplier.
  24. Scotts90

    footwell repair to do after MOT pick up

    just be wary of the wind if your welding outside. It doesn't take much to blow the shielding gas away from your workpiece which will give you really carp porous welds.

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