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Scotts90

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Posts posted by Scotts90

  1. I think it looks fine, although will be waiting to see one and get a seat in it before placing an order....a 110 with some choice options quickly gets well into D5 HSE territory and at that it will take some convincing to sway SWMBO. 

    85ecus did make me laugh but surely it’s on par with most new vehicles? Times change as do technologies. My 200 needs 1 power supply to keep it running but would I like the 200 in a new car? Of course not as it’s “of it’s time”, Fords lowest spec eco boost 3 pot has almost the same power.

    There will always be rose tinted nostalgia over the original defender...most of us on here have comprehensively rebuilt/replaced/restored and upgraded the factory built foibles that Solihull fitted them with and as such have created our own version that we have a worrying mechanical intimacy with so I can see it from both sides. This won’t stop me from buying the new one though  (that’s the wife’s job 😋)

     

    • Like 1
  2. On 27 June 2019 at 9:17 PM, Gazzar said:

    Clark are okay. There's a lot of knowledge about them on mig welding forum, so if your welder dies, you can probably fix it. 

    Not amazing. But the red stuff is not a bad option second hand. See it working!

    Mines 20 years old and still does what needs doing.

    I'll echo that. My Clarke has survived abuse and done a lot of welding over the last 18yrs (150 amp model) so don't discount them. I keep threatening  to replace it but it still plods away and for a budget/DIY spec machine it can lay down some nice welds. 

  3. No there's no requirement to bridge it out. I have full XS td5 looms, including using as much of the td5 engine loom as possible. No inertia switch installed or bridged, on the td5 it feeds the ecu and fuel pump relay...as the tdi uses neither it serves no purpose. 

  4. Don't want to state the "bleedin" obvious...but that pic with the ratchet attached shows you have the caliper fitted upside down as I can just see the nipple cover at the bottom of the pic. The change in orientation may give you the very minimal clearance that there appears to be on Westerns pics.

    • Like 1
  5. As yet no one seems to produce an inner repair section for the vent and screen mount area. You get extended footwell sections that take you up to just under the fold, above that it's good old fashioned cardboard and sheet metal, combined with copious quantities of tea and swearing...with a bit of welding and grinding too.

    Seen worse, repaired worse...as have many on here. 

  6. Just to add some further info on your 10AS. 

    If the immobiliser is programmed “on” and the fob is paired then you will need the transponder coil (AMR4897)  that goes around the ignition barrel. This is required to allow the immobiliser to receive the proper signals to disarm when its in the proximity of the coil. Obviously you’ll need the fob to have a battery installed for it to operate. 

    Failure to have this part of the circuit won’t allow the starter relay to energise and kick the starter. 

    Not all 10AS or td5 looms were configured for immobilisation, it depends on the spec 

  7. On 5/28/2019 at 7:56 PM, Green200tdi said:

    Ok ta 

    I’ve  not got the engine or gear box looms but also the interior light won’t come on when doors are opened will only come on if I switch to ON nor will the indicator flash when I push the remote, guess I’ll sort a battery on the remote first then start looking 😊 thanks for your help 

    You’ll need to programme the 10AS to allow the interior lights to work. That’s what I had to do in mine (full td5 XS looms with a 200tdi)

    The OBD plug on your td5 loom will allow this to be carried out using a suitable device

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