Scotts90

Oooft! I've seen one of their 90s with delivery miles advertised at £80k...you got a link?

I can see where your coming from, but JLR are not alone in their strategy. They don't make small cars like other major brands but focus on what they do, the freelander and now disco sport/evoque were their foray into smaller 4wd (note I didn't say affordable), JLR have the jag side of things to bolster their car portfolio so no need to produce a "car". Porsche aficionados weren't chuffed when they started making the cayenne as it was a dilution of the brand but they saw a market and went for it... they're now into the smaller territory with the Macan. Lamborghini, Bentley and Maserati are now producing niche market SUVs so at least Landrover hasn't decided to produce a sportscar... But had/having current Landrovers since the D2 was released up to the current D5 I assume I must be their target audience! Lol (be that good or bad!). I've tried other marques but always went back to a Discovery.

That's Land Rover themselves asking that for their "works V8", considering the price of the autobiography and adventurer run-out models (£65k+ iirc), for a full on factory fit v8, warranted...homologated (I'd imagine) and rare (199 being built) then good luck to those that can afford them.

The old "farmer up a mountain" is certainly a moot point in regards to electronics, if anyone has been in a modern tractor then they have enough electrickery to put most cars to shame. The most recent farm addition (MF7748) even runs two independent alternators for its systems...one can't cope. They're all diagnostics and info centres these days.... Ive toyed with the notion of a wrangler/Cherokee/jk, they share the endless customisation and adaptability that the defender does but this side of the pond lacks in the aftermarket availability...and buying spares from a jeep dealership makes genuine LR parts look like the budget option! Would be nice if it looked similar to the jeep above but I think deep down we all know it's going to have all the current ranges' corporate cues.

A very neat pod but those switch icons would do my nut in! Are those genuine switches or aftermarket?

Some forceful tweaking may be required, a few tugs at the door frame can provide enough "adjustment" to aid fitment. Don't get too carried away though!

Maybe so....enthusiasts have rebuilt everything else

Plenty of back patting but a big disappointment for us!

Damn I bonded the quarters on

Must go and count my rivets...

You've asked a very subjective question...hence the shortage of replies. The cost of the actual paint is the cheapest part of the job, like most things in life you get what you pay for so if there are hours of prep involved and you want a good finish then it's not going to come cheap. If it's a run around with a fresh lick of paint and minimal "effort" I'd agree with Bowie circa £500. Don't get me wrong I've seen some horrid £2-3k paint jobs which required hours of wet sanding and machine polishing to rectify...and equally some stunning "blow over" jobs. Prep is everything for a decent finish from the gun, what you are painting over and onto has the knock on effect on finish as you are only adding microns of layers at a time so blemishes etc will still show through unless rectified.

Well, the commenters prior to my post agree with the sentiments conveyed in the article so spoof or not it raises a debate.

Well, the composer of that article isn't bitter at all. No one will complain at the over inflated price that their (and I'm generalising here) complete basket case/rot box of a defender will fetch if and when they sell it and this is mainly due to those companies' indirect effect on the market. Being one of those sad people who actually likes keeping things clean and shiney I like what twisted/arkonik do so can't see why you can't keep a defender nice and clean especially with the time and effort involved getting it that way. If people have the cash to pay these exorbitant amounts then so be it, not everyone has the option to do everything DIY so offering a tailored defender rebuilding service is a great idea. Garage labour isn't cheap even a chassis swap is going to cost between £2-3k for labour alone. Some of Khans efforts are questionable, but there are some mods quite suited to the shape. If an owner chose to spend £3k on a set of locking diffs or £3k on a leather retrim then who is to say which is the better modification? Their car, their cash: their choice. This type of debate arises in lots of vehicular forums, keep it standard...mod it...race it...rat-look...who cares as long as it keeps the passion and enthusiasm for whatever marque involved alive? There are plenty out there who would chose to stifle any type of modification and make the car-world a distinctly more boring place...each to their own.

Why has the tank to come out? All the fixing points should be into captive nuts. The lower arms bolt onto the tank mounts (td5/tdci) unlike the earlier versions which bolted through the chassis rail. Where I've bolted the td5 brackets on towards the rear (wasn't welding the new chassis) is where the old angle section arms bolted on, the td5 type uses the lower captive fixing on the bracket.

I agree the new tax and registration online stuff is marvellous compared to the old post and wait routine!

My bike is due soon so I'll check it after its done to see if things have improved.

Without getting into the semantics of driving a potential death trap, how quickly would the computers update a failure? Having checked my own vehicles after a pass it's been some time before DVLA shows the new information. This may (rightly or wrongly) allow enough time for some to gamble on the drive home...

I think they usually last quite well, my td5 was a particularly neglected example and the cost between a new OE or the YRM version isn't much. The tank bracket on the white 90 is unmarked after 4yrs but it gets regularly washed underneath.

Lots of wiggling! Having the tank empty as possible helps, I placed a trolley jack underneath with a piece of wood to keep it roughly in situ whilst locating the studs. The OE one I removed from the current project was rotten through, I'm planning on using the YRM aluminium version to replace it.

Boosts with 265/75 and 2" lift. Standard height 265/75 on the td5 265/75 next to a 205r16 lol

It's a 110 rear section

Pass. The captive nuts look quite large, more akin to imperial stuff. The threaded plate appears to have been attached to something quite thick going by the rust on the thread. Were they previously attached to your 90?

They look like some aftermarket mounting system, similar to those slot in style bike racks. Doesn't look standard fit by any means...

My downpipe has two socket cap Allen bolts onto the engine block bracket. No idea of length just from the boxofmanybolts of M6 flavour in the shed

I built a compartment sealed from the workshop and supplied it with fresh air from outside. Did the job