Scotts90
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Posts posted by Scotts90
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Oh, and get a really good mask if you don't have airfed.
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Does it have a mix ratio anywhere on the tin? "Most" basic 2k is 2:1 paint to hardener (or activator), you'll also benefit from a dash of thinners (between 5-10%). You may find without the thinners that it won't spray well, especially if using a smaller tip spray gun....and make sure to stir really well if it's been sitting some time as a lot of the solids will be lying on the bottom of the tin. Another thing to do if your using both tins is to mix them both together to ensure a consistent colour. It may not matter much on olive drab, but if you want a decent finish its what I'd do.
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Mission creep is always an issue, we've all been there..."I'll just give this a quick wire brush and fresh lick of paint" turns into a strip down, sand blast, prime, powder coat then renewing all the nuts and bolts. Just spent 4hrs yesterday and another 4 this morning blasting 19yrs of underseal off the td5 axles. No idea what it was but it took some shifting!
But, they will look as new (hopefully) once restored.
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I've got the Mantec, with the 265/75s the door handle is just on the edge of the tread so watch your tyre size. As you mentioned this does mount the wheel centrally which matches the OE look and personally is more aesthetically pleasing.
Its been fitted 4yrs now and looks as new. I've got Masai stuff and Nakatenanga stuff and they both produce quality items
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I watched the "Harry's Garage" video of it being briefly test driven in Geneva. Sounds lovely and it looks as though they've grafted a fair bit of suspension tech into the old girl.
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Yes 1" spacers are recommended on a 2" lift. You could drill out and fit a stainless rivnut, dropping a bolt from the top is fine but would necessitate tank removal to do the bushes or at the very least removing the tank support to slot a spanner in to hold the bolt from turning.
Another option would to have the spacers tapped to allow you to bolt them in place from the tank side (suitably thread locked) and then mount the ARB brackets into the other end of the tapped spacer.
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On the 90 td5 the RARB mounts are bolted onto the rear tank cradle bracket with captive nuts, I don't think you'll get to them with the tank in place. I wouldn't weld that close to a plastic tank either...
The tank is quite a snug fit between the chassis legs
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Yes, you should have another remote or at least a pin override panel....and of course a pin code.
unplugging it won't help as they are meant to be a security device. However you can take your time to trace the unmarked wires that will be spliced into the loom to immobilise key circuits. It will depend on the installer as to what and where they have cut into the looms, it's then a case of reconnecting where the splices are.
Im not going to go into great detail on an open forum
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When painting I run 2 x 3hp compressors, one rated at alledgedly 14.3 and the other at 12cfm. The 14.3 has a 200litre tank, the 12 has a 50 and I couple up another 50litre buffer. If painting something decent in size like a roof or baler panels both will run constantly and just keep up supply. My airfed mask needs 6cfm, the devilbiss Gti-pro needs about 12 at 2.4bar but paints beautifully. The primer guns with larger tips are very air hungry, in contrast I have a small smart repair gun with a 0.8mm tip and it is very low on air consumption.
Unfortunately waiting on the compressor to catch up isn't really an option if you want to do a decent job. I would dearly love a vane type compressor that chucks out loads of cfm, most are 3phase and cost thousands though
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Was that dropped or "launched" given your current run...
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All my guns have the regulator attached directly to them at the inlet with a swivel hvlp (or euro) male connector from this to the airline which tees from my airfed mask belt/filter. Must admit my set up is as close to pro as I could get in the workshop and I have numerous traps and filters prior to getting near the gun.
How much air do you have available? You won't be long in emptying the cylinder when painting a panel, paint guns are air hungry...even hvlp stuff requires a decent supply.
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"Blue light on top of dash panel"?
Standard td5 immobiliser is indicated via the red LED on the speedo, sounds as if you have a second immobiliser/alarm installed ...
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Mine were pretty stubborn to get moving with lots of wiggling and prizing required but once off their seat they slid off with relative ease.
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Some expanding foam and underseal and she'll sail through...
definitely time for a new one just a shame about the wait
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No spacers on either of mine, the 12L wouldn't prime after fitment so swapped over the 11L pump, both levers exactly the same length but I do remember one being in the kit with the new one I put in the 90.
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Well seeing as this seems to be spearing off on a tangent, my peeve is with not noticing...not jumping foolishly on the brakes and creating more mayhem. If I can notice an emergency vehicle approaching from behind and the oncoming vehicles are also pulling in to allow a passage through busy traffic then why can't the thwack behind me not see it?? Or at the very least wonder as to why all the other cars seem to be pulling in? Living in a wee metal bubble of their own...
For example, heading down the A77 to Girvan today. I saw the oncoming ambulance about half a mile away and suitably slowed although he was not in my lane or direction of traffic this allowing a suitable opportunity if the ambulance was to overtake However the vehicle holding the ambulance from making safe and rapid progress was completely oblivious to what was behind him...even the ambulance driver acknowledged with a shrug and a wave as he passed. The ambulance was still stuck behind the same vehicle as they cleared my rear view. This on a stretch with average speed cameras so it's not as if the vehicle causing the hold up was making rapid progress too...
Forward observation is very poor, even in towns just allowing room for an artic to carry out a manoeuvre seems alien to most of the driving population.
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1 hour ago, western said:
mine stays out, any engine oil or clutch fluid leaks can drain out without contamination of the clutch plate
Mine too. Always nice to know in advance when it needs another crank seal lol
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Dumdum is my sealant of choice (think it's no longer made though)...butyl mastic strips I think is what you can get it in these days.
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For a start, 10v isn't good and a healthy battery should see 12v.
so, have a look at link6 and ensure its clean and got 12v in and out...if it's all good there you may have a break on the brown/blue feeding the switch. A continuity check should confirm. The fact you have lost all lighting controlled by the switch and not individual circuits points to a supply problem.
Although your multimeter is showing a voltage this can be misleading...knock up a quick test lamp with a bulb to see if it illuminates.
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If you are going with a solid colour then it's not so much of an issue, metallics can be affected by the way in which the base is laid down. As mentioned earlier having enough paint to do the whole job is a start but a pro-paint shop should be able to replicate exact batches time after time. Gun settings and pressure consistency are easy to keep in check but in the DIY booth temperature is an issue. The biggest problem is the tool holding the gun! A decent painter is worth his weight in gold, the amount of "pro" jobs I've seen that are simply shocking is phenomenal...it all depends how fussy you are and like most things you only get what you pay for.
Painting off ensures the panel edges are all well coated and saves any masking issues.
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I feel your pain...they’re like petulant children at times...show one more attention than the other and it’s not long in having a hissy fit!
Just had to change my 200tdi engine a couple of weeks back.
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Hmmm, what offset are the rims you are using? ET0 is the usual for steels/modulars, standard boost styles are ET35 (so a 30mm spacer effectively gives an ET5)
I have 265/75r16 on boosts that had no clearance issues prior to the fitment of spacers
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Ahh, copper slip. It really needs to be added to the duct tape/wd40 meme.
If it moves and shouldn’t...duct tape
if it doesn’t move and should...wd40
if you’d ever like it to come apart again...copperslip
lol
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I have these on the 90, still fine after almost 4 years. No corrosion evident.
Quick Q -electrical connectors/crimps
in International Forum
Posted
I was recommended Hozan P-706 by PaulMc from here a few years back, this one set is suitable for several different types of connector and I've found it handy for most of the common multiplug pins. It doesn't do both crimping actions in the one go like the proper durite ratchet style crimps but are more useable in a confined space if crimping in-situ.