Scotts90

Doesn't give you a door dimension, 890mm rings a bell though... Edit: Just had a look back at my rebuild and for the doors it was 880mm with a 7mm gap all round on mine. This was with original door frames wrapped in SPL replacement aluminium skins. You can assemble loosely but don't tighten everything up until they are all together, having a bit of a wiggle helps to line up all the panels before tweaking the gaps to suit

From my 90, no weight. From memory it was a proper bitch to get the whole lot together, I resorted to a selection of ratchet straps to push pull and tweak things into place. All the new chassis use the later type mounts and bushes on the a frame... I assume they've been swapped?

Just had a look at first four, yes I see they do a short version for the carrier...I got my terrafirma ones at a great price so didn't mind the cut-n-shut to make fit. "Bespoke" I think they call it lol Yes, swing arm due to the weight of the wheel and the unsympathetic way in which the kids shut the damn door! And yes, it's my daily driver...no excuse for a dirty truck.

With a Mantec swing arm fitted?

Different style but more than adequate to protect the corner and the wing. Just had to shorten this one by an inch to utilise the other holes in the crossmember.

All joking aside, the heat is a double edged sword...it can dry off condensation and melt ice but if it's the usual black grime road spray the heat soon turns this into a nice brown film that vastly reduces light output. I would say my halogen transit lights suffer more through this than any icing that occurs on the defenders' LED units.

Can you hear the fuel pump prime on turning the ignition on?

Very quiet? We have a fleet fitted with them and there's not a quiet one amongst them. The least noisy ones are inside purpose built covers with inlet and exhaust air outlets. If it was fitted external/under slung then it would be a great deal quieter. They are a constant source of inquiry from passer-bys and customers as to "what's making that noise". These are all eberspacher airtronics. Now in contrast the water units fitted to the D3/4/5 are virtually silent with usually only a slight whirring and a puff of exhaust smoke evident.

Some food for thought there. Be interested to see if it could be integrated into an old housing to save some bulkhead hacking...may be worth a punt rather than shelling out on a webasto or eberspacher unit. My eberspacher in the van is great but it doesn't half make some racket!

Just be aware the running the 10w may begin to melt the holders especially if they've been replaced by cheap units and you run with sidelights on all the time. The 21w are in the same holders but only momentary...ie brake lights (via a 21/5w twin filament) and indicators.

Keith Gott had a few hi-cap new take off bodies a while back but nothing listed on their site now. May be worth a call

Ouch! http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/128620/5497/panel___body_side___rear 110 is shorter (stating the obvious lol) may be easier making a tray back with drop sides!

Neither the parts catalogue or workshop manual states locations apart from the front 3 as Ralph mentioned. These go up into the timing chest. Should be 8x25mm per the catalogue so I wouldn't worry too much about them. Looking at the ladder casting and a small drill bit you should be able to probe the depth to verify what goes where...there is obviously another 5 @ 60mmthat go through the ladder frame into the block. I may whip the sump off my old block tomorrow if I get time

No your not alone in the poor alignment. I built a jig around the untouched bulkhead prior to doing pillars/feet/footwells/vents (everything apart from the middle lol) Its a commonly quoted "made from original pattern"....unfortunately most seem to have been made from a poor pattern. The ones I purchased did slot inside the a-pillar snugly but the spire clip apertures were about 5mm too low as were the hinge holes. The mounting spacers were too wide and offset to one side, also the radius from vertical to horizontal fouled the footwells. Nothing that couldn't be cured with some drilling/grinding and tweaking but added a bit of swearing to the job. I didn't buy the cheapest ones available, paying extra in the vain hope they go straight on. Silly me...

Some stuff seems to be very quick these days, especially reg transfers etc however it took a good 4weeks for my V5 to turn up for the pickup although the details were all done online.

Being of the biking fraternity, it definitely increases your awareness and observations. I got "lifesaver" drummed into me 20-odd years ago when doing the bike test and still do it to this day, in the car, in the van or on the bike. My biggest pet peeve is those who don't notice Emergency Vehicles...you know the ones with the blinding lights and deafening sirens that were designed to draw attention? The amount of A-holes who have overtaken me as I have pulled in to allow a clear path for the Ambulance/engine/cops (always with a shaking head of disapproval) astounds me.

We now have about 5" of snow, very light and fluffy but now freezing. Going to be interesting getting the FWD Vivaro to work in the morning.

For some inexplicable reason the rear lights on the td5 loom (on the 90 ) have an earth tag on the bulkhead under the bonnet. There are two studs with earth cables attached above the footwell next to the clutch housing ..make sure it's clean and tight. I had some pretty weird light shows due to one of the ring terminals being loose there.

Baltic up here. D5 going for a service so drove it to the stable to wash to save turning the Tarmac into a skating rink. Started at 0°C....20 mins later at it was -6°C and the hose/snow foam turned to ice. Bugger. Only a few flurries of snow but nothing lying yet....

I did a complete strip down/full colour change with everything removed, as said above buying enough paint for the whole job and keeping it constant is the key. I mixed my base coats together so the colour was even through the three tins, turned out just fine. If you were going for a fancy pearl or mica where panel orientation may create an issue with shading/reflection of the metal flake then I could see where the body shop was coming from.

This is on my list too. I think I will just go standard CHRA too as my replacement engine has a freshly rebuilt pump.

Oooh weldp0rn....nice work

I queried my list of mods/upgrades when the certificate came through as it was somewhat lacking...they did have the full list on file but could only put part of said list onto the actual certificate.

LOL Oh, we're doing engine codes...one of those crate cummins from the USofA would sit nice but at $9000.... https://cumminsengines.com/repower.aspx

Oh yes, that block is being bored...added to the list of jobs lol