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Posts posted by Scotts90

  1. Yes, you’ve found the 4 HT style glow plug connectors on the engine loom, basically defunct in relation to the tdi. 

    Engine loom wise there’s very little to use...starter trigger, oil pressure switch, alternator tell-tale were the only compatible inputs/outputs. Iirc I didn’t use the td5 loom for the temp sender either. 


  2. I’ll ask the obvious first...does it have full central locking and did it work prior to the rebuild?

    If so, does pushing the door button down (doors closed) actuate the central locking solenoids? Check the door wiring looms are plugged fully home, if the basic locking system is working then check the wiring from the 10AS or if you’ve got access to a code reader do a diagnostic on it to ensure it’s configured accordingly. It’s a small internal relay that triggers the locking so that may have an issue. Multimeter and a wiring diagram and check for power and earths (it’s a defender after all!!) Also a good idea to give the relevant fuse a clean and a wiggle!

    The dash LED is also handy for letting you know if there’s a pin switch issue, it’ll be solid red if it thinks there’s a door still open    


  3. As far as I know you won’t get a Dixon bate style detachable/drop plate style NAS step. 

    You can get a step with the 2” receiver style box which will allow you to swap attachments. I did read somewhere recently that defenderupgrades are selling fully UK towing certified NAS steps so may be worth dropping them an email. 

  4. Standard boosts are et35 if memory serves, going to an et8 will give you 27mm of movement towards the outer arch. 

    My boosts on 265/75 have a 30mm spacer giving the equivalent of an et5 (the spacer effectively moves the mounting face to almost the centre of the wheel) 

    ET0 and ET10 are quite common offsets in aftermarket modulars/alloys. 

  5. Yes, the large grey plug with orange insert is for the towing elecs .

    Wiper electrics will be dependent on which loom you have. If it’s configured for it then you should have a natural coloured plug along with the nsr light plugs. This does the wiper/wash functions, oddly enough the remote central locking for the tail door (again if configured) comes from the roof part of the loom. 

  6. Nicely done. FYI the reason the LED is “solid” and not flashing is down to the alarm thinking the doors are open (pin switches)

    if you have the immobiliser activated (as indicated on the dash panel) then you’ll need the pick up ring for around the ignition barrel so that the fob can disable the immobiliser when in close enough proximity.

    With regards to the plugs above, they are different pin/plug arrangements so won’t interchange as the guide slots are in different orientations iirc...making them different colours just makes it easier to identify. 

  7. The fob doesn't have a red light, just two buttons. Do you have the td5 clocks? These have the alarm indicator led built into the speedo so would show what it's doing. This won't be an easy thing to bench test as it reads inputs for the pin switches (doors and bonnet) and will signal a circuit fault. 

    It doesn't need the power sounder fitted as it will activate the horn.

  8. Should do, not all 10AS are configured the same way though. Mine has full activation for immobiliser, interior sensors, pin switches and central locking. Depends on what spec of vehicle the unit came from, some don't have the internal relay for the locking but this can be retrofitted. 

  9. I get between 25 and 30 on the 90 200tdi. Running 265/75 BFG MT. and a standard 1.41 transfer box with roof rack/winch&bumper and a shedload if sound deadening. 

    That’s mainly small runs, on a 30 mile trip to Glasgow it’s better unless you chase it on. It really just likes sitting about 60, it’s just shy of 3000rpm at 70. 

  10. It's time consuming as you need to strip the carpets, floors and tunnel to access the bellhousing. From then on its straightforward removal of props, wiring etc to slide the box back to disengage it. Ultimately safer and easier on a ramp with transmission jacks and a couple of bodies to lend a hand. However, many have done these in their own garages and driveways but be aware that the 380 and 230 are a very heavy lump and not easy to balance on the likes of a trolley jack. 

  11. I'd have guessed at around the £1,000 mark. 7hrs labour at £70+ an hour plus parts ( they'll bill you for fluid, new clutch slave hose, possibly new prop nuts/bolts) so they're not overly expensive. A clutch kit isn't the expensive part, the DMF is.

    I bought these this week! 



  12. For an OE (LUK/Valeo) clutch kit and DMF supply only you're looking circa £400. Slave cylinder about £25 (AP) and about a days labour at a garage. If you're competent and can get around the logistics of dropping the gearbox and transfer box then it's perfectly doable in a day. 

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