Scotts90

It's time consuming as you need to strip the carpets, floors and tunnel to access the bellhousing. From then on its straightforward removal of props, wiring etc to slide the box back to disengage it. Ultimately safer and easier on a ramp with transmission jacks and a couple of bodies to lend a hand. However, many have done these in their own garages and driveways but be aware that the 380 and 230 are a very heavy lump and not easy to balance on the likes of a trolley jack.

I'd have guessed at around the £1,000 mark. 7hrs labour at £70+ an hour plus parts ( they'll bill you for fluid, new clutch slave hose, possibly new prop nuts/bolts) so they're not overly expensive. A clutch kit isn't the expensive part, the DMF is. I bought these this week!

For an OE (LUK/Valeo) clutch kit and DMF supply only you're looking circa £400. Slave cylinder about £25 (AP) and about a days labour at a garage. If you're competent and can get around the logistics of dropping the gearbox and transfer box then it's perfectly doable in a day.

https://www.terraintechparts.com/collections/land-rover-chassis-chassis-bulkheads/products/land-rover-defender-110-200tdi-galvanised-chassis-bulkhead-assembly Pretty sure they are supplying Shielder bulkheads...its Shielder ones shown in their pics. A search of this forum and defender2 will provide some opinions on the quality.

Take it back to the place that rebuilt it? Were the injectors refurbed/tested at the rebuild stage? Could have a weeping injector...

Yes to both

Pretty much the same advice as Ed and HoSS, steel is a lot slower so gives you time to perfect your feed/dipping technique, stainless gives good results for a newbie too. I have had my TIG for a few years and I can do passable welds, fabricate brackets etc but it'll never match a MIG if you need to carry out welds on less than clean/sound surfaces or in awkward positions. Being in a comfortable position (seated helps) and being able to carry out the weld in a smooth manner is key (if you can't you'll end up dipping the tungsten or losing the arc). Aluminium. When it goes well...it's great. A nightmare when it doesn't! Practice on thicker material running beads across plates. This gives you an idea of how much current is required to start a puddle and then just keep it going by modulating your pedal. Once you have a good grasp of this you can start to introduce filler as and when necessary. It's very much a hands on practice skill for technique, the Miller site has an app which will give you tungsten diameters, filler rod size and amperage settings for different materials and thicknesses (aimed at Miller machines but good enough for a starting point). Don't weld in a draughty area as losing the shielding gas creates some really poor welds.

I bought a Sealey version a good few years ago when rebuilding a tractor, the punch broke at its pivot not long after purchase. Really should've taken it back but it still functioned (and still does), I just need to push the punch back down as it won't retract. The flange setting is fine on mine with 1.0mm material but struggles to produce a decent rebate on 1.6mm, so depends on what your needs are. iirc mine was about £50

By the way, that's one very smart looking D4. The wheels and tyres suit it well.

Anything below 4° has the FBH kicking in...think I read that in my D4 handbook when I had it.

When I applied the 3v across the solenoid it was enough to hold it in the "on" position but not strong enough to overcome the spring and pull the plunger home from the "off", the blip may cause enough of a draw through the pump to pull the plunger down onto its seating (overcoming the small voltages' magnetic force) Did you see any momentary change in voltage prior to shut down? Was it still there after the engine stopped?

Interestingly enough, the brake light circuit is fed from the same ign feed as the stop solenoid. Is the load of the lights enough to kill any stray voltage?? Hmm

Good luck with the new project. Should keep you busy!

Have you tried pulling the fuses on the ignition fed circuits that could feed back to the switch? Hazard switches can give some weird and wonderful issues, may be worthwhile giving that a look at too.

I assume you've tried this simple test. Engine still running with ignition "off", pull spade connector off solenoid. If it stops then you can prove the solenoid is being held open through a supply of power. If it continues to run, then it's not power related.

Yes, newer barrel and switch is a straight bolt on to the column affair...you just need to find a suitable method of removing the security shear bolts on the barrel clamp.

Just had a little play with some solenoids and some batteries. 3v DC was just enough to keep the solenoid open (proved working on a12v supply). It would hold it open from closed but not close it My 200 had a thing for keeping running, changing the solenoid would work for a few months. It’s never needed one since the pump was changed so it must’ve been related to the pump port/sticking etc.

I too have friends who own a 4x4 specialist garage and also see first hand the problems that plague Landrover... And Mitsubishi, Jeep, Toyota, VW/Audi variants etc There is a thread in this forum where someone asked about buying a defender, to which someone had replied they were no more troublesome or unreliable than any other vehicle if properly maintained. So fortunately I’m not the only misguided fool. But I can see I’m fighting a losing battle, I like my land rovers...wouldn’t go as far to say I love them...it’s only a machine after all. So please carry on unabated. I’m done (Hurrah I can hear over t’internet 🙄)

Cannot the same be true of Jeep given its reliability status and more recent failings?

Looking at the pics on YRMs site for the alloy version the tub is still on the chassis as they offer up the new part. Never had a 110 wagon in bits, only a pickup so can’t offer any more help. Galv one won’t rot the same but may create some galvanic corrosion unless suitably isolated. Aluminium one as per OE has lasted well if that’s its original support. Personally I’d stick the aluminium one on.

All the best when it comes

Fair enough, if that was not what you implied that's fine by me. It did read that way though as the following comment showed. My intention was far from being belligerent; I didn't dispute Toyotas legendary reliability, just highlighted the fact that as volume sales go the cruiser is a small proportion (global sales since production at approx 3.5% of vehicles sold). Figures from global production of 200million (Toyotas website) vehicles up to 2018 and citing Jamie's figure of 7million being Landcruisers) this includes commercial sales too. Compare Landrovers limited line up of vehicles to the amount offered by Toyota and it's hardly comparing like for like, as mentioned previously LR is a niche manufacturer.

Switch pack won't swap over, completely different receiver in the bottom of the barrel. So the above is a 2001 td5 barrel with switch installed. and this is a comparison of the two, the upper one is a Td/TDI era barrel, the lower is the td5 one with the switch removed. Hope that helps.

Thanks Bowie and Snagger for the trolling accusation . My apologies if my posts were contrary to high percentage of those previous. Having owned a good few of the "new" models over the last 20years I've not had one grind to a halt or leave me stranded...closest was reduced power due to a D3 EGR. So in my own experience (which counts for nothing it would appear in this topic) my Land Rovers have been reliable. Out of interest, how many commenters have owned and ran recent JLR vehicles? As HOG says, it's all moot until it's on sale and you can sit your butt in the seat...then rip it to shreds.

Avoid the parweld 4 sensor, mine has been swapped out twice for failing sensors under warranty...so unreliable it only does grinding duty. Will your budget stretch to the cheaper Speedglas? I still use my first speedglas 100 for MIG, 13yrs and still works great.