Scotts90

No one has said it (I think) but reading through members' projects on here is highly motivating. My complete rebuild took 15months, the only bit farmed out was the bulkhead galvanising. The satisfaction of saying you "did it all" is immense, especially the paintwork. I had a clear goal of what I wanted to build, nothing too extreme with some comfort touches (XS spec) but help and pointers on here especially with loom changes was priceless. But, you really need to want it done. I fortunately have a very understanding wife and a large shed so spending countless hours rebuilding was never an issue, getting my son involved also was great....it's how I gained my knowledge working with my Dad. I always liked getting the deliveries of parts, be it new or eBay specials....the urge to "crack on" increased hugely if there was a load of goodies sitting waiting. It could also be an affliction as I have my brother in laws 110 to restore and get back to as new and I'm looking forward to getting stuck in

I assume you've removed the caliper from the disc/hub assembly? large hammer/blocks of wood will inevitably ruin the disc, if it's that bad the stub axle will probably be ruined too.

The OE loom comes through a hole in the lids of the seat box, I have mine tucked under the WOR-matting on top of the lid and exiting at the rear...I just cut a nick out of the rear join to allow the convoluted tubing to exit with kinking. You'll have cut out the access panels to get into the battery/toolbox/ecu areas so no further major cutting is necessary. I fitted a td5 XS loom to my 200tdi so it was plug and play for the heated seats. The cabling is run as part of the main harness, there are two small looms splitting off at the transfer box to feed either seat, these have two grommets, one to pass into the seat box and then the grommet for passing through. Which spec of 110 are you fitting to?

A few firsts there....bird perch in between the seats....I don't even think Khan or Reverie would go that far. Land Rovers' Autobiography workshop has nowt to worry about lol

I have both my compressors (3hp v-twin 9.6cfm each) boxed in with 100mm Kingspan left over from my house build. It is a lot quieter in the shed, but I have air vents on the outer wall to provide a fresh air supply which does allow some noise to escape...my nearest neighbour is over 1/2 a mile away so no worries there.

My first Dayco was a 10x1025(I kept the packet it came in) the newer ones are all 11x1030 and are what's listed for the engine...only 5mm longer and 1mm wider... but every little counts. I think I'll source one of the gates ones you refer to for the spares department.

My 200tdi (defender model) developed an appetite for alternator belts. It was a genuine Dayco I fitted after its restoration and it lasted about 1000miles so I swapped for another Dayco. Then a couple of hundred miles later it It lost a few of its teeth and I put this down to it slipping and jumping, which I put down to it not having enough tension (again). Since then I have fitted a new alternator as the original was losing the will to charge, but soon after the belt looked loose when running....so out came the large pry bar and I put more tension in the belt and 1000 miles later with no issues. I don't know if the belts are stretching through time but I know my adjuster is almost at the full extent of its slip at its current position.

I have the Wipac versions in my 86 90 along with the adjustable relay with no issues. The only thing I did find was that I had to re-adjust the relay the first time I plugged the trailer electrics in as it wouldn't flash the trailer indicators, once altered it was fine with or without the trailer.

I bought an alcantara trimmed one with alpine cut outs, then made filler panels for the alpine lights and re trimmed with matching material along with the visors. Turned out ok

Had another look at it this morning. Found the top thermostat to rad hose to be weeping so it's more than than likely the source of all my drips as it's been running down the stat housing onto the water pump housing and finding its way along the lower pipework. I also took the old cap off and gave it a good clean at the vent ports then ran it up to temp and everything seems to be ok with no build up of excessive pressure in the tank and no further leaks. I have a new cap and clear header tank en route so they will be changed regardless as I've never liked the idea of not being able to visually check the coolant level. Time will tell....

Minted! We took the John Deere complete with ribbons to the brother in laws wedding....a whole litre of tyre shine was required for that! Stunning setting for a wedding, it will be a very memorable day.

Sorry, should've mentioned it's a 200tdi, It got a new water pump along with the timing belt kit....I'll try a new cap and see how it goes. Thanks guys

My 90 has now done a couple of thousand miles since its rebuild, however the only part I didn't do much to was the engine. It ran well, didn't smoke or rattle excessively so a service, adjust the tappets, timing belt/pump etc and all was well.... I started getting coolant leaks from a couple of hoses, and on opening the expansion tank found it was quite highly pressurised....even after the vehicle sitting for a few days it was still under a fair bit of pressure. I have no mixing or loss of fluids, no smoke (apart from the usual puff of black on start up) and the truck runs well, boosts ok and doesn't overheat even when towing. Heater works well too. So, having searched about I don't have the blowing noise associated with the gasket going between cylinders 3/4 but is this more indicative of a cracked head? Or something simple like a faulty cap on the expansion tank? Thoughts appreciated, or should I just bite the bullet and whip the head off for a look? Cheers Scott

Has this not been covered elsewhere? The fitment of an LED bulb to replace a standard filament type is not allowed, the paper article does say it is concerning the fitment of "LED bulbs". Standard lenses are type approved for use with standard filament bulbs, full replacement LED units as supplied by paddocks/Wipac etc are type approved as full LED units. The LED headlight topic raised similar issues, I'm sure someone with vastly more knowledge than me in this subject will be along soon...

Hard to tell from the pic, are you pointing at the wing stay/support bar bolts? Mine has an m6 x 30 bolt in there

You may be right there Mav... I might be getting my Caledonian and Cairns blue mixed up

If it's a genuine LR colour, closest would be Caledonian Blue? Too light for Oslo or Nordic Add some mud to this... Close?

I'm sure there's a few of us that have spent enough money on our rebuilds that would've come close to financing a new vehicle. The big plus is you then have a vehicle that you know intimately (slightly worrying ) and should have years of service on it rather than possibly buying a load of niggles/warranty woes. If you have the time/knowledge and cash, I'd do the rebuild.

The holes on the retainers "should" line up with the self tappers that hold the lower dash assembly on

Mine is polybushed throughout...it is sharper/tauter than the 110 pickup we have on standard bushing. Ride quality is always subjective, especially in a defender but I find mine perfectly acceptable and the wife/kids haven't complained about any overdue harshness.

all I can say is the v6 freelander 1 was a thirsty beast! I used to get them as courtesy cars from the local dealer and was horrified by how poor the mpg figs were...even by Land Rover standards.

I moved my 200tdi one out by about 20mm to clear the internal bracing on the td5 bonnet, the cap sits nicely in a recess now.

Here's a little template I used for the td5/puma style cut outs, found it on t'internet somewhere... Just draw one to the dimensions and cut out carefully lol

I've got full td5 XS looms in my 200tdi 90. The 10as does the immobiliser via ignition pick-up coil and fob transponder, albeit it only inhibits the starter on the 200 (limited electronics). I've adapted the td5 engine loom to run the engine adding the relevant feeds.

Well, mine is a Dec 86 so just scrapes into the e-marked lights only category if I've read the above properly. With no disrespect to those who are clearly up on their C&U regs etc, this is a set of headlights...which to all intents have been tested and certified and marked accordingly (assuming not fraudulently certified). There are vehicles on here with lorry engines, race engines etc with torque and HP ratings far in excess of what LR envisaged for their workhorse chassis....yet these mods seem to have raised less issues than a set of headlights? Or am I over simplifying it?