orangemach5

Cheers for all the replies, going to fit an intercooler anyways as i think it will be better for the engine in the long run and give a slight performance increase too.

Hi all, After fitting my new EGT gauge this morning i am a tad concerned. Whats the max EGT for a Isuzu 4Jb1??? The pump has been tweeked by the previous engine owner and im running about 12 psi of boost. Theres a slight bit of black smoke at full throttle. At current the temp easily reaches 1000-1100 degrees F at WOT and about 500-600 just about half throttle. I havent fitted an intercooler yet, but i dont think it will change the temp much. I ran methanol/water injection on the previous engine and the system is still in place, do you think that will help the EGT much if i use the system again?? Cheers Paul

LOL i thought that might be the case . Cheers

The old mans 95 Softdash 3.9 has a complete sports exhaust system fitted with tub manifolds and decat y with lambda's. It will NOT go through emissions at the MOT. We have cheated and fitted dickie seats and so its classed as MPV and doesnt require a cat for that year . I always use 20/50.

Hi all, The front diff on my truck has started to go south, i have the complete rear diff that i removed to fit the arb and so i know its good. Question is i have been warned that you shouldnt use a diff thats been on the rear on the front or visa versa because of the direction of running its done during its life. I cant see it making much difference but its got me thinking! Will it be ok running the diff the oposite way?? Cheers Paul

Creepy crawlers are still quite noisey though! Hankook do some 305.... somethings that are roughly 35.12.5, think they are called RT03's. Should be quiet, depends how agressive you need the tyres though!

Ask Simon from X-eng, they do a groovy anodized one just for the job!

Hi Steve, thanks for the reply. It registers 17.5 volts on both Optimas ! I spoke to the supplier and he said they cant high speed test them because of the oil fed vac pump on the rear, he is kindly sending me out another . So Ill fit that and see what we get. The last thing i need is 2 fried Optimas! Cheers

Hi all, Engine is all in and running well finally!!! I put a new alternator on, having wired it all up it charges fine but at higher revs it overcharges (16-18V!!). I would of thought it would be a reg problem but the alternator is brand spanky. Its the 80amp version with the 3 pin plug on the rear. Any ideas before i go on a rave to the supplier !! Many thanks Paul

Cheers for all the replies guys!! I had thought about making a new longer pushrod, but i think it will either bottom the fork out on the inside of the bellhousing or possibly push the thrust bearing partially off it guide and put it at a funny angle. I think ill get some 1mm washers made up and remove the bellhousing and mock up with the engine o the floor rather than wrestling with the engine hoist endlessly . If i have no luck i shall have to give CPE a ring like Jes has suggested! Dont suppose anybody has their phone no. handy?? Cheers Paul

Hi all, Just in the process of fitting a 4JB1 to my rangerover which has the long stick LT77, i bought the engine with a conversion kit already fitted and attached to another LT. When i split the supplied box from the engine the ball that clutch fork pivots on just fell out, it had been snapped and the just placed back in . On closer inspection of the engine 2 of the 6 bolts that hold the clutch cover to the flywheel had been snapped and were still in the flywheel (I hate welding bolts out!) . So as im sure you can imagine im now thinking that the guy who looked after this before was slighty uuummm careless should we say. I Ordered up a valeo 130 friction plate and a new Isuzu clutch cover. When i removed the cover it had your everyday m8 flat washers spacing the cover from the flywheel (1mm spacing approx), i removed them as i thought it could of been another bodge from the previous owner. All fitted and theres no clutch on the pedal, removed the slave cyl and the rod that attaches to the fork is just level with the hole in the bellhousing, so the slave cyl cant reach! Am i right in thinking that the rod should poke through by 1-2"? I know there are a fair few on here who have done the conversion and so could you tell me whether the washers are part of the kit and should be fitted. Im assuming that the 1mm spacing lets the pressure plate springs extend further to make contact with the thrust bearing but will a 1mm spacing really make the rod move those 1-2" out so the slave can make contact? Sorry it long winded! Any helps much appreciated Cheers Paul

Is the belt nice and tight? Could be the belt slipping under load.

Does it smoke at all? It could be a diesel knock you are hearing rather than the tappets, might be worth checking the inj pump timing.

When i had this problem on the old mans 200tdi i used a drift and a Mer to crack the solenoid off and then it wound out with the spanner easily. When i removed the solenoid i found lots of swarf stuck to the plunger as Western says. We stuck a magnet in and cleaned it out but it only lasted a few days before it done it again, new pump it was! Its amazing how they can break up like this, im told its because the of the sulphur level in the diesel these days??

After the 2nd engine i would of been up in arms demanding money back, thats shocking!!!