MarkParm

Yup - I guess thats the next step isn't it? Saves on the overseas shipping too! thanks for the help

I've only been looking at it with a low tank and no one inside. I'll try a fill up. It did have a lean before the new installation. When I pulled the old springs the p/s side was significantly shorter than d/s. The new shocks and dampers are fine. So my lean is mostly corrected, but still off by about a cm or so (and that is with the o/s ome installed on the p/s). On closer inspection the p/s lower mount seems slightly lower than the o/s. Perhaps at some point in its life someone replaced them and didn't get the height quite right? Does anyone know if 1 cm front spacers are available somewhere? cheers

I just fitted OME shocks and coils to my 110. The old springs and shocks were in a sad state and I had a heavy lean to the passenger side. After fitting the new kit I find that I still have a lean to the passenger side. So then I swapped the drivers side OME 767 (slightly taller) over to the passenger side and still have the lean. The welds on the mounts look fine and the axle doesn't look bent. Anyone out there fix a similar problem?

thanks for the photos and the excellent advice! the truck is starting fine again . Both earths were in horrible condition and to think I was about to remove the starter.... cheers,

Found some time to have a look. My neg from the battery goes to a frame crossmember and then I have a grounding strap from the block to the frame near the front left mount. Planning to clean them up. Perhaps I should should extend the one from the battery to the gearbox joint?

Hello out there, Had a funny episode with my starter this afternoon at the grocery store. Truck (110 with disco 200tdi) wouldn't start - starter was turning slow. I tried it a few times and some smoke started coming out from the parking brake lever! Popped out the inspection plate and nothing looked burnt underneath. checked the starter and the large connection on the solenoid was loose. tightened everything up and still no go. I've got good charge in the batteries and 12v is getting to the solenoid, but all I get now are clicks. No more smoke out the p cable. Could it be a bad ground somewhere?

Is it only the td5 instruments that have thru dial lighting or did it start sometime before that?

I hooked it up the same as western's a while ago and am getting lots of heat... Next step is to plumb in my eberspacher so I can avoid cold starts

yup I was looking for something that lit thru the numbers. I had to replace my temp gauge a little while ago and I thought it might be good to catch the rest of the dash up to it. Plus my speedo is really wobbly. Think I'll just keep my eyes open on ebay and grab some vdo ones as they come up thanks for the replies

anyone out there know the ohm range that the fuel sender for a 110 works on? Was looking to replace my gauge with a backlit one...

thanks heaps - that was about the easiest fix ever!! Cheers

My instrument lights on my 1984 110 stopped working. I pulled the instrument panel out and hooked some power to the wire and they all lit up nicely. Turned the headlight switch on the truck and checked the power feed to the lights and there's nothing. All my fuses look to be intact and well connected. Does this lead me to the headlight switch? I had a quick look at it and there were no loose wires. Any suggestions? and does anyone have know which fuse is for what in an 84 110 formerly 2.25 petrol? The truck didn't come with a fuse panel cover.

well my belt is definitely too loose and thanks for the direction on the heater hoses - couldn't find that in my haynes book Great thread on adapting the sender - wish I would have read that before I took it to the machinist... Once I get the sender back I'll take her for a run and see if all this has helped cheers

I recently imported a 1984 110 to Canada. It has a disco 200 tdi engine. I've jumped through all the hoops to get it registered here in BC. Now I'm down to sorting out the last few mechanical problems which led me to this forum... I have questions in regards to how hot this engine should run. It came with the 200 tdi temp sender but the original 4 cyl petrol gauge so the gauge would go off the scale as soon as I turned the key. I've replaced the gauge with an aftermarket model. Running it with the 200 tdi sender shows the temp at about 110 C. I'm in the middle of tapping out the 200 tdi sender so I can put the aftermarket sender in (it came with multiple thread adapters - none of which fit). The truck has a kenlowe electric fan which has been coming on frequently even though its averaging minus 10 - 15 C these days. So I'm thinking I do have temp problem. I chucked the thermostat on the stove and it opened just before the water boiled. When I squeeze my top rad hose I feel a corresponding surge in the bottom one. The rad looks to be new when they swapped engines. I turned the engine over briefly with the sender out and antifreeze came out of the hole (ie the water pump works?). Is there anything else I should be looking at? HOw tight is the belt supposed to be on this engine? I had a mechanic replace the heater matrix as it had been leaking. Would there be a temperature problem if he hooked the heater hoses up backwards (it does produce decent hot air in the cab). Thanks in advance for any advice