Normbourne

ok lads, all sorted, I have bought a "GPS" speedo, which should fix everything, no worries about tyre size etc., the only prob is it's diameter is only 85mm whereas the rover unit is 100mm. I'll have to think of something clever to mount it.... .. Thanks everyone, Norm.

G'Day lads, I'm having a bit of trouble, locating a Servo. overhaul kit, any ideas Fellahs..? I'm located in Australia, but that doesn't preclude my importing same. Thanks a lot, Norm.

G'Day Fellahs, My beast is a series 2a, 1967 and built in the UK. I live in Australia where the metric system has been adopted. What I need is a speedo calibrated in Kilometres, with the same dimensions etc. I had thoughts along the lines of just addng an alternative scale, but I wouldn't have a clue on how to proceed. So lads any ideas or does someone know where I can buy one....? Many thanks, Norm.

As a matter of interest, many years ago, I was bought, as a present, a kit which consisted of a coil former, some heavy gauge copper wire, and an aluminium casting which made up the handle, this was the gear to create a DC welder which ran off batteries. I wound the coil, assembled the unit and it proved to be excellent. It's action is that as you scratch the electrode, the current thro the coil withdraws the electrode into the coil, thus providing a vibrating tip, which consequently established the arc. This was 45 years ago, at that time, I used it to carry out sheet metal repairs to my mate's father-in-law's Morris Minor, it is tremendous Tool. Since then, I've never had occasion to use it again, but I still have the tool, taking pride of place in my tool case. If there is any interest I can post a photo. Norm.

I'm sure and have felt for quite some time that anti wrap bars are a definite advantage. The. Love of my life is a series 2a 109 built in 1967 and is the subject of a 20 year + rebuild, so I am encouraged by the comments concerning same, I intend to fit both ends but will advise once I get into it. Norm.

That remains to be seen, as it will be some time before the vehicle is ready for the road. Having said that I'm pretty confident, I had a mate with his milling machine, who milled the business side not that it really needed it, and installed it with a 10 thou gasket, plastered with lashings of Stag..! Further, the studs which were loose in the T/C casing, we're cleaned up and loctited into the casing, so there is no possibility of a leak there. Norm.

Hi Guys, Attached is photo of my transfer case cover. To the left is plywood pattern, in yellow, next top centre is attempt No.2, in which the melt was too cold, and on the right is the finished article in Blue hammertone. No prizes for guessing that the bottom centre is the original. Norm.

Thanks chaps, I'm pretty sure it is a Series 2a..! It is ex- Australian army. Norm

Hey Fellahs, Some years ago, I bought a series chassis, my question is where would I find the chassis No. Did they in fact number them...? Thanks Norm.

I had no idea that Rocky Mountains did one, but yes it's very similar to the flat one ..! Norm.

Further to the gearbox re-installation, my attention was drawn to the cover plate at the bottom of the gear box. I've always experienced oil leaks, and I've always wondered why...? Anyway I concluded it was due to some degree to uneven expansion rates between the steel cover plate and aluminium transfer casing. So I decided that an aluminium cover plate was in order. I reckoned that maybe the way to go was to cast one from scrap aluminium, complete with cooling ribs to the outside. I was pleased with the result but it took 3 attempts before I got it right. Hopefully that's the last of oil leaks in that area..! Norm.

Yes mate, they are exactly what I mean.. ! Pls let me know how you get on. Norm.

Unfortunately Gazz, I never got around to getting part Nos. I went to a crowd here in oz called "Seal Imports" who deal with a no. Of suppliers. To be honest I think you would have a much better chance obtaining seals in Europe. In hindsight I should have gone ahead and got the two that were available, after all they are used far more frequently, than the reverse, but SWMBO was on my case on the amount of cash on this project. As I say, two seals were no prob it was the third on the Reverse selector rod that was bit difficult. To be honest I think you would have a much better chance obtaining seals in Europe. Googling "Hydraulic Seals" brings up heaps of suppliers. Good luck, Norm.

Indeed that channel WAS the breather for the T/Case, but is now blocked, and an alternative arrangement installed to the casing. Norm.

Thanks Snagger for your comments and advice. Actually, in the matter of the gear selector rods, I had thought that maybe a hydraulic seal, would be the answer, they are designed to seal on shafts operating in a linear motion at high pressure, whilst they are available to suit two shafts, I couldn't find any to suit the third shaft which of course is different in size. Un fortunately, they are not cheap..! As regards the whole project, only time will tell of success or failure, but one thing for sure, it won't be any worse..! Norm.

Oil Migration gearbox to transfer case. Ive been giving the matter of oil migration between gearbox to transfer/case in series Land Rovers a great deal of thought and have concluded as follows. I am well aware of the widely held conception that They all do that mate but there has to be a reason..! The popular opinion is that oil tends to leak around the insert at the G/Box to insert interface which carries the main output bearing, assuming of course that the oil seal is in good condition. I have recently become aware that oil may also be leaking to the transfer case at the rear end of the gear selection rods, where there is a chamber which drains directly into the T/Case via a channel in the casting at the G/Box -T/Case interface. Apparently this channels primary purpose is to provide a breather to the transfer case. I believe that for oil flow to occur past the insert and past the gear selection rods, something must be driving it. The manufacturers have provided a small hole, approx. 3mm in diameter in the top of the gearbox, and again in the inspection plate at the top of the T/Case, to serve as breathers to relieve any pressure, I contend that this is inadequate! When one considers a chamber, where pressure exists, for it to dissipate in a timely manner, provision must be made to relieve any pressure. It then follows that the larger the breather, the faster pressure relief will occur. If of course pressure isnt relieved, then it will blow oil past the output shaft oil seal, past the bearing insert, past the gear control rods, and also that maybe thats the reason that very often, the oil seals at the forward end of the of the control rods leak. In my own gearbox, which is presently undergoing overhaul, Ive taken steps to address these issues. Ive mounted the bearing insert with Loctite 680, at the insert/Gbox interface, also the bearing mounting into the insert. The output bearing was changed to a 2RS, the seal removed on the inboard side and new oil seal fitted. A hole was drilled from the chamber at the rear end of the gear selection rods into the gear box and the channel in the casting, which had served as a T/Case breather, was blocked off, thus ensuring any gearbox oil appearing in the chamber, would drain back into the gear box. An 8mm banjo was installed to the top of the gearbox and an 8mm ID. nylon pipe connected, and run to the engine bay and terminated to the top of the firewall. An 8mm banjo was installed to the top of the transfer case and again, an 8mm ID. nylon pipe connected, and run to the engine bay and terminated to the top of the firewall. The G/Box oil filler was modified to allow oil replenishment to be carried out from the cab, a dipstick has been installed to the oil filler cap, to allow monitoring of level. The T/Box was modified by the installation of a dipstick and a new oil filler plug was installed to the top inspection plate, so the oil level, and replenishment of oil can again be carried out from the cab. If after all that, oil migration still occurs, then I will join the They All do that Brigade The only problem is, is that it will be some time before the vehicle is ready for the road, so I wont know for a while whether Ive been successful. Oil Migration gearbox to transfer case. Ive been giving the matter of oil migration between gearbox to transfer/case in series Land Rovers a great deal of thought and have concluded as follows. I am well aware of the widely held conception that They all do that mate but there has to be a reason..! The popular opinion is that oil tends to leak around the insert at the G/Box to insert interface which carries the main output bearing, assuming of course that the oil seal is in good condition. I have recently become aware that oil may also be leaking to the transfer case at the rear end of the gear selection rods, where there is a chamber which drains directly into the T/Case via a channel in the casting at the G/Box -T/Case interface. Apparently this channels primary purpose is to provide a breather to the transfer case. I believe that for oil flow to occur past the insert and past the gear selection rods, something must be driving it. The manufacturers have provided a small hole, approx. 3mm in diameter in the top of the gearbox, and again in the inspection plate at the top of the T/Case, to serve as breathers to relieve any pressure, I contend that this is inadequate! When one considers a chamber, where pressure exists, for it to dissipate in a timely manner, provision must be made to relieve any pressure. It then follows that the larger the breather, the faster pressure relief will occur. If of course pressure isnt relieved, then it will blow oil past the output shaft oil seal, past the bearing insert, past the gear control rods, and also that maybe thats the reason that very often, the oil seals at the forward end of the of the control rods leak. In my own gearbox, which is presently undergoing overhaul, Ive taken steps to address these issues. Ive mounted the bearing insert with Loctite 680, at the insert/Gbox interface, also the bearing mounting into the insert. The output bearing was changed to a 2RS, the seal removed on the inboard side and new oil seal fitted. A hole was drilled from the chamber at the rear end of the gear selection rods into the gear box and the channel in the casting, which had served as a T/Case breather, was blocked off, thus ensuring any gearbox oil appearing in the chamber, would drain back into the gear box. An 8mm banjo was installed to the top of the gearbox and an 8mm ID. nylon pipe connected, and run to the engine bay and terminated to the top of the firewall. An 8mm banjo was installed to the top of the transfer case and again, an 8mm ID. nylon pipe connected, and run to the engine bay and terminated to the top of the firewall. The G/Box oil filler was modified to allow oil replenishment to be carried out from the cab, a dipstick has been installed to the oil filler cap, to allow monitoring of level. The T/Box was modified by the installation of a dipstick and a new oil filler plug was installed to the top inspection plate, so the oil level, and replenishment of oil can again be carried out from the cab. If after all that, oil migration still occurs, then I will join the They All do that Brigade The only problem is, is that it will be some time before the vehicle is ready for the road, so I wont know for a while whether Ive been successful.

I discovered some serious probs with my clutch operating mech during my gearbox overhaul, which I've covered elsewhere. The shaft needs replacing together with it's spherical bronze bush. Therin lies my problem, there shouldn't be a problem with remanufacturing the shaft, but the bush bearing is another thing. The cost of a new one is prohibitive, does anyone know of an alternative or perhaps some bright ideas on fabricating one....? Thanks Norm.

Hi Snagger, As a matter of fact, I intend to extend the breathers, including those from the axles, with nylon tubing, into the engine space and terminate them at highest possible point on the firewall. The idea being to improve the wading ability to some degree. Im not talking about taking the vehicle swimming but simply to enable creek crossings to be accomplished with little likely hood of water ingress to GB, TC, or axles. I intend of course to loctite the bearing housing. Removing the old oil seal, revealed a seized output bearing which had been spinning within the housing also, thank heavens for loctite. Norm.

Yes I now see how that channel is a breather, I have only just noted the small hole in the inspection plate. This of course makes nonsense of my contention that it may be a pressure relief, what a round about method for a breather...! As regards oil being evident in the chamber upon gear box strip downs, I wouldn't expect to see oil there because as soon as any oil collects there it would drain straight through to the transfer case. As regards oil flow into that chamber, if that is what is happening (?) it could only be a minimal but the same could be said for oil flow past the output bearing insert. The mod I'm considering entails as I say, blocking the channel, and drilling a hole to ensure drainage into the gearbox, but of course I had Intended to revise and install breathers to both GB & TC as part of the overhaul. The installation of breathers makes the channel obsolete. It seems to me to remove doubt regarding all possible reasons for oil migration is the thing to do. But having said that, in view of your comments, I intend to give the matter further consideration. Thanks guys, Norm.

I've heard that in Europe, that there is an argument that goes that the oil is actually coming from the chamber at the rear of the gearbox selector shafts and from there down the machined groove on the transfer box face into the gearbox. Thus bypassing the output drive seal completely.* I've heard of a bloke, who installed a brand new virgin box and sure enough, oil migration took place, which seems to point to an inherent fault in the design. The fact remains, there is a clear unimpeded access between the gearbox and the transfer case, via the chamber at the rear of the selector shafts. After further deliberation I believe that what is happening with reference to oil migration is that the gear selector rods, act as pumps, transferring oil every time a gear is selected, to the chamber at the rear end of the selector rods, which of course is then drained into the transfer case...! I think I am on the right track in drilling a drain into the gear box and blocking off the channel drain into the transfer case. Further I cannot see any ramifications in doing so, it isnt as though the flow from this drain is meant to lubricate anything within the transfer case. (or is it....??) I've been racking my brains, trying to work out why rover would provide this channel, could it be that it was meant to be simply a means to relieve any pressure which may build up, due to the action of the selector rods....??? Anyway, for me my mind is made up, I intend to go ahead with the mod. I will advise in due course, unless lads, any of you, can see any reason why I shouldn't proceed. Norm.

Another thing I meant to mention is that oil had been leaking past one of the stud bolts also.

Despite my reluctance about pulling the gear box out, it turned out to be the best move I ever made...! When I came to pull out the clutch linkage from the bell housing, it was to discover that one of the pins through the connecting tube, had broken into three parts. I would have been really p......d off, had I put the box back in to then discover that it would have to come out again..! Anyway it turned out all oil seals need replacement and the seal on the main shaft, was approaching 5 on the moh scale it was that hard, not surprising really considering that I've never changed it and I've had the vehicle 40 years. But no wonder the oil was flooding past.

Upon further attempts to remove the oil seal, it became apparent that the insert itself was loose in the housing to such an extent that it was possible to spin it readily by hand. So I might as well fix it once and for all...! after all these years, a remanufactured engine ready to go in, a refurbished firewall, etc. etc. it would be foolish to just replace the oil seal, there is so much play on the insert interface, oil must be flooding past.....! I ' m hoping that I can get away with leaving the transfer case in situ and just remove the gear box. WML Norm.

Okay guys, thank you so much for your advice, I think I will take the easiest route, vis just fit the oil seal, and the oil filler/dip stick arrangement, which is a great idea. After all said and done, although oil migration past the bearing insert will continue to take place, it shouldn't be that great a flow, compared to that which will take place if the oil seal is crook. In the 40 odd years I've owned the vehicle, it's never been changed so I can't imagine it being in pristine condition......! Anyway lads I will advise in due course, in the meantime, thanks again.! Norm.