serious2a

I never did get any help regarding dimensioned sketches, etc so I did the only thing I could do, and made one up myself from scratch which works extremely well and is a real time saver if removing and replacing the injector pump. I posted this with pics on the landyzone 19J Forum section on 13/07/14 entitled: 19J Injector Pump Pulley Wheel Holding Tool, for anyone who may be interested.

Thanks, Guys, for replies. I contacted my local Land Rover parts supplier with the STC99 Number and they confirmed this was indeed the number in their parts book. Unfortunately they were unable to tell me any details about it - what years it was fitted, size, etc. so I'm still in the dark. I had read on some forum about another turbo number - ETC6878 and I mentioned this to them and after a bit of digging they found it in their books but could tell me nothing about it. The odd thing about it is this - the engine with the smaller Airesearch turbo on it looks original and undisturbed whereas the other engine with the bigger Garrett turbo on it has new bolts fitted which would lead one to guess that it might have been changed at some stage. So, I'm still left not knowing which of my engines has the correct turbo on it. Any guidance as to where to turn next would be much appreciated. Thanks again.

Hi, I have two 19J engines, each with different sized turbos fitted. One has a Garret with the following numbers on it :- BC2 M27 A/R 48. The other has an Airesearch (amalgamated with Garret, I believe), turbo but I cannot find any numbers on it. I need to know which engine has the correct turbo on it and a part number would help in this respect. The two turbos are of different sizes. The Airesearch (smaller) turbo is fitted to engine No.19J149620. The engine number has been obliterated from the other engine (for reasons unknown !). Hope someone can help me resolve this question, Thanks in anticipation.

"western" has hit the nail on the head with his description and "cwazywabbit" has done even better by pinpointing the item in section 4.3 of his link. This is the first time I've seen a sketch of one and can now try to figure out how one could be made up to apply to the 19J engine. If anyone had one, (even for a TDI engine), and could send a couple of pics of it, it would really sew this thing up for me . Much saving in time and difficult access as "puffernutter" says, would make the tool really worth having.

Thanks guys for prompt replies, but I'm pretty sure the ebay tool on "cwazywabbit's" link and the others referred to here are 'timing tools' as distinct from the 'pump pulley/sprocket holding tool' that I want to see. Am I right in my assumption ? If so I'm still looking.......

Hi, I wish to remove the injector pump for servicing on my 19J engine but want to avoid the hassle of removing the timing cover et al. I have heard there is in existence a tool for holding the pump belt pulley in place whilst the pump is removed and replaced, applied presumably through the round steel access plate at the front. Can anybody suggest where I might get a pic of one of these tools so that I could turn one up for myself ? Thanks in anticipation.

Thanks mickeyw & pat_pending - now I know what it is, I can try to get rid of it, although being off an old 4-speeder, I don't think there'll be too many takers !

Hi, I've had this lying aroung my garage for some time. I am a 'series' man so somebody probably gave it to me thinking it would be of some use, but it is clearly not a series part. The question is, is it a Range Rover item ? I can't advertise it to get rid of it until I know which model it belonged to ? It has brand new shoes on it, by the way. Hope somebody can provide the definitive answer.........

If I get you right, rubyreddevon, you are talking about bolting the carb flange directly onto the manifold ? I thought when you mentioned this in your prievious post you were talking about setting the carb horizontally instead of it being 30 degrees up from horizontal as standard and rotating the float chamber to line up with the body of the carb. The horizontal option is very feasible but the vertical is definitely NOT ! In any case the two attacment studs are in the wrong orientation and the the stud/bolt centres on the manifold and flange are disparate, and if set vertically the oil would run out of the dashpot ! My set-up clears the bonnet comfortably, but getting a 90 degree (as opposed to my 60 degree) flanged adaptor made up, will of course increase the clearance between the dashpot and the underside of the bonnet. It's the only realistic way to go in my opinion, if you're sure you really need this extra clearance. Here's a thumbnail pic to refresh your memory:-

Rubyeddevon - you have brought this thread back to life after I thought it had run its course ! You describe yourself as a 'rank amateur' but your detailed description and 'handle' on the workings of the carb are very far from amateurish. It's interesting that the slow running non-return jet turned out to be the cause of your problem. I removed this jet and as far as I could tell, no air would pass the ball when 'blown' against its seat but I did not try blowing the other way, simply depressing the ball off its seat to check for spring action, dirt, etc. Everything seemed fine and I just replaced the jet as it was. Of course there was no improvement in the dribbling problem and it was very soon after that that I capitulated and made up the S.U. conversion described earlier in this thread. This now means that although I would like to check this jet again, based on your experiences, I'm not in a position to do so. Although happily I can report that my S.U. conversion continues to give great service - easy starting, good mpg,(a relative term !),& total reliabilty. Your theorising about the 'flow reversal' in your last paragraph, is definitely worth investigating for others here suffering with the 'non-atomisiation' problem who are sticking with the 361V. There's good news for you, Reg, as you'll be pleased to know that the float chamber on this particular type of S.U. can be altered to cater for a horizontal installation. (There were older types of S.U. carbs fitted to cars of the 1950's which were horizontal but availability (or the lack of) would probably rule them out). All you have to do is remove the 1/2" A/F bolt that attaches the float chamber to the main carb body, whereupon you will see a 'timing lug' cast into the body of the carb to locate the float chamber at the standard 30 degrees. Simply grind away this lug using a Dremel-type tool or suchlike and then the float chamber can be rotated to any desired angle - simple ! The tapered joint is not a petrol or airway so accuracy is not of prime importance although naturally you'd want to have the two parts mating nicely. I reckon there's no likelyhood whatsoever of the float chamber rotating in service Now the bonnet clearance worry is sorted out it's time for action ! If (or when?) you do this mod, I'd be very interested to see and hear about the results. To that end would you put a post to that effect on this thread so that I (and other interested parties) do not miss it if it's under a new heading? Good luck.

Les Henson says he used a lot of bad language to remove the spigot bush - NOT NECESSARY! Simply get say an 8" piece of bar as near as possible to a sliding fit in the bore of the bush, fill the bush with very soft grease (cv joint grease is ideal) and whack the bar into the grease - the bush will pop out with the hydraulic action, as nice as you like! Mind your good trousers, though! Having said this, the bush rarely wears excessively unless the vehicle has been used with the clutch held down when in gear for unnaturally long periods - the only time when relative movement between the bush and the input shaft takes place - and can be checked for size using a digital vernier etc and compared to the shaft - ideally no more than .008 (0.2mm) beyond which it is wise to renew the (cheap & easily fitted) bush. QED.

It's a malleable iron pipe bend, (GF = George Fisher) in this case with a male 1 1/4" thread on one end and ditto female on the other. Available in any mechants dealing with steam/water pipes. (You can also get sharp bends, 90 degree elbows, tee-pieces, the lot). A plumber could probably put you wise to a supplier in your area. p.s: The threaded ends are removed of course before welding.

The S.U. (1 1/4") came off an old mini (probably 60's 0r 70's). The jet and needle, etc were left as they were and operate just fine. I did a plug check after a 30 mile run recently (hitting 55 on the m/way and more pedal to go!) and they were a lovely mid brown so it can't be too far out!). The manifold was made up using a 90 degree 1 1/4" bore GF fitting (cut at 30 degrees to suit carb angle), welded into two labouriously cut, bored & profiled 8mm steel flanges (that's where the only real work is), and trued up after welding, on a belt linisher. The adaption for the air cleaner was made up from a Rover 414i exhaust manifold,(welding two bends together), the tapered section was rolled up specially, and welded to the top of an old damper top cover which just happened to fit the existing rubber flexi tube spot on! The attachment flange to the carb was again hand made but of only about 4mm this time, as it doesn't need to be any thicker. It IS an engineering job, no doubt, but if you have the wherewithall it is definitely worth doing. Any other questions just ask.......

Thanks Otchie1 - I never expected such a detailed and in-depth description, but's it's certainly more than enough to put me off buying 'pattern' service kits! When taken into account all that you rightly day about heat/cold, internal abrasion, etc., the only sure answer has to be a new carb! A re-furbed one would still have the same old Mazak castings which could never be brought back to 'as new' condition, as all that could be done would be ultra-sonic cleaning internally and nicely vapour blasting the outside to give a suitably impressive finish! As you imply, heat stresses and worn air/fuel passageways could never really be contended with. Unfortunately I didn't think of trying your tip about screwing the idle screw full in to see what happened and it's now too late for that so I'm left wondering.....

O.K. otchie1, point taken. What I should have said was: "This is the ONLY certain way of remedying this damned problem short of replacing with a new Zenith". You seem to have done the next best thing but spending that sort of money was simply not an option so I never contemplated it. I didn't consider my carb body to be worn, let alone worn out, this being judged mainly by the butterfly spindle - the only significant moving part, (the accelerator pump can be disregarded). I'd like to know what in particular in the kit is shockingly bad - There's not much beyond a couple of gaskets, fibre washers, a diaphragm, and a few jets . What can be so bad? Handy to know if I'm ever faced with tackling the problem again.