BrettS

Also in Canada with the same experience. I have sent Paddock several emails and used their contact us page through their web site to inquire about their SuperPro bushing kits, but have had absolutely no replies. Really? In this day and age they can't reply with a few taps at the keyboard? Brett

I've tried twisting and I've tried pulling with no luck either way. Dumb thing is plastic so worried about breaking it. I have a new speedo on the way so have been sort of waiting to see if it yields any clues. Brett

Does anyone know how to remove the trip reset cable on a Series 3 speedo. I put this one one about 15 years ago but damned if I can remember how it's attached. Don't want to bust it. Brett

OK, this makes sense too. With my 110 not originally being a 300Tdi though, I could not find a small bracket on the chassis so I bolted the hose clip to the chassis where the inner wing attaches. This actually works well as it helps to hold the air hose off the brake line junction/valve thingy (LHD truck) which is mounted right there on the bulkhead. Brett

Yes, 300Tdi. 110 is an Ex-Mod so originally had the 2.5NA. I upgraded a few years ago. It didn't have the proper wing with the air inlet so the hose has been tied up in the engine bay all this time. All sorted now with the proper bits, just a bit confused about that bracket. Think I have that licked now too but it has decided to start pouring rain so will have to finish up later. Thank you all for the help. Brett

Thanks guys. My 110 was not originally a Tdi, so wasn't sure on the set up. I don't see how the bracket could naturally be mounted to the inner wing on mine to orientate it to support the hose. Must be a mounting tab or something I am missing. Easy enough to make something up Brett

Got the rest of the bits figured out but can anyone tell me just exactly where this bracket is supposed to mount? I'm thinking on the side of the bulkhead toe box facing forward to support the elbow? Thanks Brett

Well, not having much luck. Thing does not want to budge. Have the brake back plate off now so a lot more room but no joy. Even the wood chisel is not doing the trick. Will have another crack at it tomorrow. Brett Update... OK, I couldn't leave it alone. I went another round with it using the chisel, then used the wire wheel to clean it up a bit, then for the hell of it, grabbed it with a pair of vise grips, just to see. Well, didn't I see the little bugger move a little bit. Bit more wiggling up and down and the pinion finally slid out. I was surprised to see the little gear was yellow, but then this gearbox did come out of a 90. I will order the blue one as is fitting for the 110 where the gearbox now resides.

Just wondering if heat would be an option here? Not talking red hot, just enough to maybe help things break free a bit. This bugger is being stubborn. Brett

Yes Mo, you may be right. Been soaking it, tapping away at it, hitting it and swearing at it, all to no avail. Tough spot to try to get at that's for sure. Thanks for the suggestion. Brett

Thank you gentlemen. That is a big help and just the info I was looking for. Brett

Hi guys. The speedo cable on my 110 has siezed up and the bit the square end of the cable goes into has broken. Did some searching on the forum and I see that I have to pry the pinion out of the transfer box and I assume replace the drive gear. Can't find any pictures of the parts in any of my manuals so I'm just trying to make sure that the broken bit is part of the drive gear and that is what I need to replace. I hope this thing doesn't give me too much grief trying to remove it. Have started soaking it with penitrating oil. Thanks Brett

Well, I guess the rubber was kind of old and a bit hard. A bit of heat from a heat gun softened things up a bit and they popped out easy enough. Brett

Question about a Series 3 brake servo non-return valve. I've just swapped my leaking servo for a good one and I need to swap over the non-return valves. These appear to just be a push in fit, but how the heck do you get them out. I have tried a pair of screwdrivers for prying but the valve doesn't want to come out and I don't want to force it in case there is a better or easier way. Anyone have any advice how to get them out? Thanks Brett

Available in Canada! Brett

I plan on putting a 2.5NA into my Series 3 88 next month. I was just wondering what clutch I need to use. The 2.5 clutch or the old 2.25 unit? Or is there a difference? I was thinking the 2.25 is the one to use with the Series 3 gearbox. I also read in an earlier post that the 2.5 intake and exhaust manifolds were swapped for the 2.25 items. Is this necessary or can the front exhaust pipe just be modified to fit the 2.5 manifold? Thanks Brett

In the engine use the Shell Rotella T 15W/40. Seems to be a good oil and the one I see recommended most often for diesels here in Canada. Walmart sells it in bigger 9L jugs or 20L pails. Used this all last year and through the winter in my 2.5 NA. Using it in the 300Tdi now. I believe the oil recommendation for the LT77 and R380 are different with the LT77 requiring ATF and the R380 a MTF. Like John, I use the Redline MTL in my R380. Canadian Tire carries some of the Red Line stuff but I had to get the MTL at a nearby speed shop. Transfer box and front and rear axles, use the Castrol Hypoy C 80W-90 gear oil, also at Walmart. For the wheel bearings I just use high pressure w/b grease available at Canadian tire. Good for the U-joints as well. The last tub I bought was Lucas Heavy Duty wheel bearing grease. On the Series trucks, you are not supposed to use the North American brake fluids. It is not compatible with the English rubber. Silicone-based fluids are supposed to be ok but you need to start with all new seals, at least that is what I have read. Having said that, most folks over here use Castrol GT LMA brake fluid in there Series trucks. It's what I have used for the brakes and clutch systems for the last 24 years on mine. Exceeds DOT 3 and 4 requirements. I don't know if the NA spec fluids will harm the rubber in the later trucks, but I am using the Castrol in my 110 too. And the only place I can find it is at Zellers. Brett

I has all those bits and then some dipped about a year ago. No problems at all with warping and they look great. Brett

Many moons ago we did a chassis swap on my Series 3. Rolled into the shop Sat. morning and drove it out Sunday night. Two 12 hour days, and that included extensive welding repairs to the bulkhead. We were three guys with a couple others coming and going over the weekend. It was a lot of fun too. Brett

Bang in some nails... brilliant! I should have thought of that. Ok, just kidding. My gearbox is good with just a little clunking going on. I think it has many more miles in it yet before it needs a tear down. Just thought a new gear would slow down the wear and get me ever more miles, but yes, I see the point about mixing old and new parts. Suppose I should pull the cover off and see just what is in there now. Engine and gearbox came out of a '96 Defender, so for all I know there could be a cross drilled gear in there already. Thanks Brett

My R380 seems to have a bit of wear on the rear output shaft. Bit of a clunk but not too bad. Would I benefit from swapping in one of the cross drilled input gear to halt any additional wear or would it be a waste or money at this point? Thanks Brett

Everything seemed ok today so yes, hopefully it is sorted. And none to soon either as we are heading off to a rally for three days on Friday. Will be the first long trip with the new engine and I am looking forward to to it. Of course, now that I've said that... Brett

Well, I took apart the sedimentor at the back beside the fuel tank. Nice layer of crud on the bottom. Found a loose hose clamp on the fuel line going into the pump. Nothing leaking out but may have been loose enough to draw some air in. Checked the priming lever on the fuel pump. It had resistance, so hopefully it is sound. I sort of tried but I just couldn't bring myself to rev the engine flat out against the governor. The turbo hoses appear fine inside and out. Took the truck for a run on the highway and flogged it up to 125 kph. Backed it down to 100 a couple time and accelerated again and all seems well now with the truck pulling well and no reappearance of the earlier symptoms, so I must have hit on something. Thanks for the suggestion. Brett

New fuel pump, filter and lines when the engine went in a month ago. Truck was in use before that so I don't expect the tank was full of crud. Hey, just thought of something. There is a sedimentor at the back near the tank on my truck. Never had it apart. Should I be looking there? Brett

My 110 seems to have developed a bit of a problem. Newly installed 300Tdi has been fine for the last 1500 km or so. Two days ago traveling along the highway at about 110 kph, if I pressed down on the accelerator peddle, I noticed what seemed like some one was taking little stabs at the brake peddle. The truck slowed for just half a second then carried on. It would happen every four or five seconds as long as I was trying to accelerate. It was windy and I thought at first I was hitting little gusts of wind, that were slowing me down. But it was only happening if I tried to accelerate. Maintaining a steady speed at or below 60 mph was fine. I didn't notice any real change in engine note as this was happening. Fast forward to today and it is still doing the same thing. But towards the end of my journey on the highway, the truck would not accelerate at times from 100 kph. Then it would. Off the highway and near home, it started to act up in the lower gears at slower speeds, but seemed to miss a bit as I tried to accel after shifting up. Any ideas what I should be looking at???? I'm thinking maybe a fuel problem? I installed a brand new fuel pump when the engine went in though. Of course it wasn't genuine so I suppose the quality could be suspect. Not familiar enough yet with this engine (or diesels) to think what could be ailing it. Any thoughts most welcome. Brett