BrettS
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Posts posted by BrettS
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Well, new lift pump and new fuel lines and all is well. The old pump was not sucking at all. No wonder the engine wouldn't run properly. Once we threw the new bits at it, it started right up and ran great... up until the trip home.
About 10 minutes after leaving my friends shop for the long drive home, a clicking sound started coming from the engine compartment. Faint at first but it was getting louder. I noticed it most at idle sitting at lights, less so at speed. Of course, all the other noises may have drowned out the new noise.
There was no loss of power that I noticed. I was towing my 88 on a tow bar and that seemed fairly effortless for the Tdi. So thinking it best not to push my luck, I turned tail and headed back to the shop. The loud clicking persisted, but no other ailments were noticed.
Once back to safety, I popped the bonnet for a good listen. The noise is coming from the area around the injection pump. Can't tell or not if it is actually coming from the pump, but it is that side of the engine.
It was getting dark, so I couldn't do much more. Hopefully, it is just something come loose, or we forgot to tighten something... but I don't usually have that kind of luck. Just hope I am not looking at something £££!
I know it's hard to diagnose a sound with out hearing it, but anybody have any ideas what to look for. One suggestion I have been giving is to look closely at the vacuum pump. Seems they are prone to developing a "clicking" sound.
Thanks
Brett
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Alright Mo, thanks for the insight. Will give it a shot and hopefully that will take care of that.
Brett - Who's new to this whole TDI thing.
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Did you prime the fuel filter, Brett ?
Mo
No I didn't. The general consciences when I asked about bleeding the fuel system was to just crank it over. Was told the system is self purging.
The engine did fire up, and with the revs up, it pulled well. But take your foot off the peddle and it just about dies, and it doesn't want to come back up to speed without a lot of coaxing.
Brett
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I resently changed the belt on my engine (my first time) and it was a breeze. Mine was out of the truck at the time so it was that much easier. Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine.
Brett
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Well, I have a spare lift pump, so will change that for sure. I don't think the fuel lines are blocked, at least from the engine back to the tank. I'm going to run some new lines anyways, just to cure the leaks. The old stuff seems kind of brittle.
Fuel filter is new, so that should be fine.
Thanks
Brett
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Well, got the newly installed 300Tdi fired up yesterday and I was less then impressed. It started for the first time fairly well but the idle was way to low. We adjusted that and it seemed to idle ok for a bit then wanted to stall out again. Trying to drive the truck didn't go so well either as the engine wasn't very responsive to the actions of the accelerator peddle.
Pumping the peddle didn't do much but eventually the revs would come up and you could pull away. But between shifts the power dropped off again. Once you could get the revs up again, it seemed to pull well, the trick was to not let up on the peddle.
Needless to say, we didn't go for much of a test drive in this condition. Any ideas where I should start looking? This is the first Tdi my friends and I have seen so we are not too familiar with the beast. Could it be the fuel pump maybe?
When we joined the old and new fuel lines, we did have some trouble with a leaky return line. I shouldn't think that would give us this type of problem.
Any ideas most welcome.
Brett
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Diesel Jim, thanks for that link. I had seen it before but do you think I could find it again?
I should have mentioned that my truck currently has the 2.5 NA mated to an R380, the one with the short bell housing. I have another R380, with the longer bell housing, that came with the 300Tdi that will be going into the truck with the new engine. I am thinking (hoping) that the new gearbox bolts up in the same spot and this in turn pushes the 300 forwards and into the right location. I think it was Western in a previous post that thought this should be correct.
The plan would then be to fab up some chassis mounts. One thing I was told is that I should get the engine in the right spot, install the rad and cowl, then centre the fan in the cowl, giving me the correct height. Sound reasonable.
Only three more sleeps till the big day!
Brett
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Does anybody have (or can point me in the right direction) pictures of the chassis portion of the 300Tdi motor mounts?
We are about to stuff the 300 into my 110 this weekend and I am not sure yet about fabbing up the mounts. Can I just relocate the 2.5 NA mounts or will I need something a little different?
Of course if anyone has some measurements on the placement of the new mounts, I would be interested as well. I didn't have much luck doing a search... got back everything but what I was looking for. Must be my technique.
Thanks
Brett
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Well, beefed up the clutch fork a bit on the weekend. Should be pretty much blast proof now.
Brett
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Great info here and timely too. I thought I might have trouble finding this bearing in Canada, thinking it might not see a lot of use over here, but I need not have worried. My local bearing supplier had boxes of them, and cheap to boot. They told me it is a very common bearing.
I hope changing it is just as easy.
Brett
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Yeah, that is sort of the solution I am leaning towards.
Thanks
Brett
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I have heard and read about the Defender clutch levers failing and people advising strengthening them. While I have mine apart, exactly what should I do to strengthen it? It looks to be in good shape at the moment, but while it's out...
Thanks
Brett
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Thanks for the part numbers. The problem is I can't just pop out and pick up the bits I need. Everything pretty much needs to be ordered on your side of the pond and delivered to my side, so I am trying to have everything I will need on hand for the big day. If all goes to plan, and it's a big if, we'll have the Tdi swapped in over a weekend. Sort of drive in, drive out service. Hey, we did the chassis on my 88 in two days, in and out again, so how hard can this be...
Brett
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With the upcoming swap of the 300Tdi into my Ex-Mod 110, I have been trying to visualize the procedure to make sure I have everything.
I was just thinking about the clutch hydraulics. I am wondering if I need different pipes and/or flex hose? With the R380 going in as well, everything will be moved forward a bit and I don't know if my current lines will work or not? Any thoughts?
If I need to order bits I will need to do it soon.
Thanks
Brett
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Well, they don't call Canada The Great White North for nothing.
These are from a couple weeks ago...
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Still may be interested in whole box. Keep me updated on progress!
Cheers.
Will do then.
Brett
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It is the separator that mounts on the chassis, the fuel-filter on a 300TDi is bolted to the wing above the steering-box (not certain what the layout would be on a LHD but I suspect it may just be the reverse of RHD models).
Ok, thanks for the info. Should be able to find the spot then.
Brett
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Well, I suppose worst case I could have the prop shafts shortened (lengthened?) if needed, but I am hoping it won't be necessary. My 110 has rear disc brakes.
There does seem to be some interest in the the short bell housing from the R380, but most likely, if and when the time comes, the gearbox will be sold complete.
Another question about the install. Where does the fuel filter mount? Is it on the bulkhead like the 2.5 NA? I seem to remember some one once telling me it mounts on the chassis rail. There is a filter and fuel lines attached the the 300 now, but that doesn't really help me with a location.
Brett
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Thanks Western, that's really good to know.
I've got the engine, gearbox, rad, cowl and lots of other new bits. I'm in the middle of a timing belt change, then new water pump, motor mounts and clutch and I shold be good to go.
Oh, and I have an excellent welder helping me.
I am half toying with the idea of putting the 2.5 NA and gearbox into my Series 3 88... but that will be a whole new topic.
Brett
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Hello all.
I am getting ready to stuff a 300Tdi and gearbox into my Ex-Mod 110. I think I have just about everything I need, but I do have a question (first of many I think).
My 110 is currently fitted with a 2.5 NA diesel and an R380 gearbox, with the shorter bell housing. When I fit the replacement R380 with the longer bell housing, will the gearbox sit into the same location and will I be able to my current drive shafts?
If so, that will make measuring up and moving the engine mounts quite a bit easier. I believe when replacing an LT77, it needs to be moved. At least I think that's what I read somewhere, hence my question.
Any info gratefully accepted.
Brett
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This is my trusty 88 that I have owned since '84. Spent this last summer making it pretty again.
Brett
Got My 300 Tdi Installed
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Well, upon further investigation, the clicking sound is more of aa phft sound and it is coming from the front injector. While hunting around for the the problem, I placed my hand on top of the engine to lean down and listen about. It was then that I felt short little blasts of air coming up from between the injector and the valve cover.
I pulled the injector expecting the sealing washer to be messed up. It didn't appear to be in too bad a shape. Why would the injector suddenly start leaking like that?
It will have to wait till Monday when I can hopefully get a new sealing washer at a diesel shop. Hopefully this will solve this latest set back and I can finally get around to enjoying this engine.
Brett