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ipace

Getting Comfortable
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Everything posted by ipace

  1. The problem is that I just want to make sure I have enough fuel going in and want to make sure that the egt is safe....
  2. Hi Guys, I just had a decat and mid box delete on my TD5. The improvement is performance is impressive! However i am concerned as on the boost gauge it is now showing a peak of between 1.3 - 1.4bar (18.85 - 20.3psi) boost pressure (boost gauge is connected using a t connector on the wastage pipe) Previously it used to cap at 1bar (14.5psi) The car had been remapped a while back….. is this a safe amount of boost or am i playing with fire? Overboost has not yet kicked in. your views would be greatly appreciated.
  3. Hi Guys, I have blanked the EGR yesterday and all seems fine, however on some tutorials i read that you should unplug the solenoid plugs (2 of them on the 15p and 1 on the 10p), the instructions that I followed, which where shipped with my kit only mentioned that you need to block off the vacuum pipes that where unplugged from the EGR. Can anyone tell me what is recommended to do? Should i leave the electrical plugs in the solenoids or should i unplug them? if so… what is the difference/advantage of doing either way?
  4. Hehe yeah.... Mine stopped asking when it's close to being ready.
  5. It's a Chinese android dual din from autopumpkin.com it's got gps, dvr, reversing camera and all the works can't fault to be honest.
  6. excuse the carp photo.... but this is how it would look once fitted
  7. I recently got a dual din head unit and like many people i googled to find out how to go on about it, but it seems that there is not much information on how it’s achieved. I have therefore taken some photos of the procedure maybe they will be of any help to anyone who decides to do the same…. Basically i just cut to shape a modelling plastic card to fill the hole and glued it with epoxy as per below: Sanded it down with 80 grit sandpaper to get good adhesion with the fiberglass I then laid 5 sheets of fibreglass sheets on the back of it to strengthen it as i would need to cut open a new aperture and it will also have to hold the weight of the new unit. Once set, i filled and smoothed the surface with ABS filler from Wurth. This needed at least 3 thin applications and sanded it to a smooth surface with 180 grit sand paper in between each application to ensure a smooth finish. The last sanding was done with 250 grit sand paper and this time round i sanded the whole console to get the same finish all throughout. To finish off i then sanded everything with a 500grit and went ahead with the primer Once this is all done…. just mark the size required, making sure that you align the bottom of the unit with the bottom line of the ‘blank space’ of the the console. This is very important as the hazard, demister etc. switches will hit the head unit and it won’t be fun starting all over You now just need to cut out the new aperture with a dremel tool or whatever you see fit once this is done just give it two coats of spray to finish it off…. sit back and enjoy
  8. Hi Guys, I have a problem which is getting me all confused.... maybe one of you can shed some light.... I fit a defender pedal box including servo and MC to my Series 3 which already has power assisted brakes however it was very weak. Apart from the fact that it used to pull to one side, which i believe is a hub seal issue. I now have a worse problem than i used to with my brakes!! Basically no matter how much you bleed them the pedal still remains soft. You pump it up it hardens but you can barely stop the car at 15KMph!! Any idea what it might be? I have set the shoes as much as i could just in case it's does not have enough travel but to no avail!. Its good to mention that the defender pedal box has been idle for over a year could it be a seal issue on the MC? Would a series MC fit this servo maybe since it's bigger it would help?
  9. Hi all, First of all, please excuse me if this is a stupid question but i have tried searching and all threads referring to a coil conversion all end up with the same conclusion which is either a designa chassis or buy a 90. I currently have a swb series III. Lets say i want to go ahead and do it since it does not effect my road tax or anything of the sort.... i already have defender axles and coils in hand so that should not be an issue. Am i correct in saying that, if you measure an already converted chassis from another swb series and use those exact same measurements to weld the new brackets on the new chassis, everything should line up perfectly on the new conversion..... or am i totally wrong and talking bull...? I would apriciate your input on this as it has me quite confused. Thanks, Ian
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