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hyperion

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Everything posted by hyperion

  1. Never buy the old model 1.8 freelander. It's engine is carp, the load from the 4 wheel drive cause massive overheating if pushed too far, The IRD box has a design fault abd the VCU tends to block also on the TD4. The back window comes down with no reason, after you lock the car. Should i go on? I drive the 1.8 version and it's a great car if you like to spend money on repairs and DIY every week.
  2. Perhaps your idle air control valve is stuck. "When loads are placed on, or removed from the engine the ECM senses the change in engine speed and in conjunction with adjusting the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, advances or retards the ignition timing to maintain a specified idle speed. When load is removed from the engine, the IAC returns to its original position and the ignition timing returns to the idle setting."
  3. 3: Possible a IRD/VCU fail. I had the well known IRD/ VCU failure, the sound started like you describe. Are the VCU and gearbox replaced/ repaired?
  4. Tried to find a posting on this problem but no luck I have a 1999 1.8 freelander. I just found out that the back door won't open. Window comes down as usual but the door itself does not get a signal to open. Tried the following. -remove the battery power and reconnecting it. This results in the backdoor window automaticaly going down. Closed the window again (hoping to reset the 0 position) but no positive result. I checked what happens. If I pull the door switch (door handle) I hear a relay switching inside the fuse compartment (CCU?), I found out that for about 0,5second the power comes on to the motor 12V/DC, but it quits and the motor is not driven. Does anyone know an other way to open the back door so I can check it?
  5. My supplier of the IRD box says the IRD breaks because of a blocked Visco coupling. And both should be replaced. He advices to buy both parts. Can anyone out here confirm that or is it just sales talk .
  6. My freelander had a leak inside the cars heat exchanger (car heater matrix under the dashboard). The solder of a copper pipe was broken and leaked a little bit. Had to remove the dashboard but was able to repair it. Perhaps it's a tip to check this heater matrix it's hidden under the blower inside the center console in the car.
  7. This isn't the problem as far as i can see now. The movement of the gear in the IRD is not normal. So I fear the repair will be a bit longer and complex. Or is the IRD box easy to remove? If anyone has a tip on the IRD repair please post it. First i need a new IRD, I hope this will be not that expensive, but i heard big repair prices for this, perhaps i will try it myself with some help.
  8. Removed the plug under pos 5 in the drawing. The gear pos 5 (laygear) moves from 1cm left to right if i turn the axle Iassume this is the gear i seen through the peek hole.
  9. The IRD unit is broken, removed the plug in the IRD unit and looked inside, the gear moved 1cm left and 1 cm right. so i'm more or less sure it's the IRD unit. Removed the axle to the rear wheels, I can still drive with front wheel drive. Because of the load is of the IRD gears now. Does anyone have tips how to remove the IRD unit of the freelander without dismantling the entire bottom. @Llanigraham: Do you mean the diff mountings inside the IRD box (diff mounting = differential mounting inside the gearbox) read bearings, You know what i mean?
  10. So I had the loud bang too . The IRD unit is broken, removed the plug in the unit and looked inside, the gear moved 1cm left and 1 cm right. so i'm more or less sure it's the IRD unit. Removed the axle to the rear wheels, I can still drive with front wheel drive. Because of the load is of the IRD gears now. Does anyone have tips how to remove the IRD unit of the freelander without dismantling the entire bottom .
  11. Traction control isn't the problem but secondary gearbox Removed the axle to the rear wheels and sound is gone. This means another large repair after my tophead) Does anyone know a dealer that can send a new gearbox for a nice price?
  12. I say when i pull up this means going faster (or try to) or was I unclear on this. This must be the TC (comes in when i pull up) and not the ABS is assume. To explain: I Have to drive backwards up a small hill to leave my garage (i could turn the car around but I drive in front first when I come home ). The car slips a bit when the bround i wet, so the TC kicks in. Up 'till now it all worked fine but since a day of 2 this described sound apears when i do this. What could it be?
  13. My '98 freelander makes a bad noise. When i pull up and the traction control kicks in, up till now I only hear the sound pulling up not while driving constant. I hear a loud bang (klunk noise) like metal of an axle "stick-slipping" . It's not a rattle as in the normal traction control sound. I assume it's the traction control system not working properly. Anyone a tip on what to do, go to a garage is a good tip perhaps but not what I would like to do as the first action.
  14. Doesn't sound like an exhaust problem, but this is easy to check. I try to see if it is the drive shafts etc. I'll keep you posted on it.
  15. Thanks for pointing out the locations. Perhaps the values are in the RAVE documentation, I will check this.
  16. CV looks to be working ok, so no 2WD but 4WD . Rear diff mount, you mean it has to be refastened to the sub frame. I have to check the torque values of the bolts then. Does anyone know those values?
  17. I will check this. Hope this is not the case however.
  18. Sometimes when i pull up. I hear a loud short bang on the back side of the car, like the coupling takes the drive axle suddenly. Does anyone know if this is normal or if this is a problem I have to look after. I heard there is a speed difference between the front and the rear drive. Could this cause the problem?
  19. Are there cars without any problems please tell me which one. The thing I know is that the freelander is not worse then any other car I ever owned. My SAAB had a failing computer system (more than once), the central locking sywstem stopped working, my remote stopped working. Alarm stopped. My opel leaked on every little rubber it had. My Citroen AX, had a blown engine after 2 months out of guarantee and the backdoor leaked as if it wasn't there. The only car that didn't have any problem was my first real car the peugeot 104 it always worked never failed to start and could drive at a constant topspeed of 90km/h. The problems with the freelander are known because the landrover owners are willing to openly talk about the problems they experience. I did not find that on any other forum i visited.
  20. And yes it worked Davis 1701 . I bumped the car while opening and the door pops open. Removed the lock from the door. I cleaned and greased the lock (there where some oxidated parts). It works fine again (for now). Lock motor seems to work great (the alarm too). Many thanks.
  21. So I need to try a jump kick, or just run head on into the cars door to get it open. . I'll keep you posted. If it takes a few weeks before you get a reaction it means i had a little hospital visit Just yeasterday the door opened once ???? But my kid was so helpfull to close it . Can it be that the opening motor doesn't turn the lock open far enough to give the lock free for manual opening? Then replacing the motor would be the best option I think. If it is a pure mechanical problem a good look and greasing could be helpfull I think. Has anyone experience in this?
  22. Hi, I have the same problem as described above (with the rear door) . Tried to get the door open from the inside, but this doesn't work. I removed the inner protection of the door and tried to feel with my hand to open the door from the inside. There are 2 levers (1 for the outside handle and 1 for the cable, thus inside handle). If I pull the whatever handle (inside or outside) the door won't open. The two cables seem to turn around the same part but what or where i can tilt the lock I don't know. Does anyone know how I can tilt the lock from the inside (which part i have to flip, shift or pull)?
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