m&mv80

Cam belt?

I had one on the back of my 90 and I can't fault it at all, it was smaller than 11mm though, think it was 9 or 10mm, great value for money and great service, I had one of his winches as well and the same goes for that, don't think you will be disappointed, I had a 11mm bowrope on the front and would have happily replaced with one of these had the need arisen. Hope that helps

try this link http://www.indexmarine.co.uk/pages/wtrprfconns1.htm#usb it looks like the one in your first post but doesnt say its an adaptor

why dont you get one of these self locking ones, much better than the ones with the spring clips and safer to as there is no way the strop can come out

my old discovery head looked the same as that when i changed the head gasket (it was blowing at the back like they do), had no choice but to fit it back on at the time as needed to use it, my thoughts were that it wasnt causing a problem before i took it off so should be ok to put it back on again, i drove it for another year without fail and then i sold it but i believe it still driving now, also in some of the workshop manuals ive seen (not landrover 200tdi) it shows that certain cracks in those areas are ok, depends on there direction and size if i recall corectly, why was the head removed from its origional eng? if you had no other option it would be worth a try but i woulnt pay hardly anything for it or you could have it tested but to be honest if your able to your prob better off waiting and getting a good one

my understanding is that a shaft with single joints on each end must run with the flanges parallel with each other and a double cardon shaft must be used when they are not, therefore as soon as you lift a landrover you are altering the angle of the front diff (nose pointing up) and should change to a double cardon shaft to allow for this. in practice it seems there is a bit of lee way in this theory and in many cases you can run a lift of a couple of inches and get away with it, having said all of that it does seem to affect some cars and not others though, ive got a two inch lift and fitted a double cardon shaft even though i didnt have any vibrations or noises but i just felt it was the right thing to do, also maybe std props would wear faster when being run at greater/unparallel angles??? have you run the car with the front prop removed? did the noise dissappear? HTH martin

im looking into replacing my pto pump with an engine/crankshaft driven one, i am happy with the speed and performance as it is but would like the ability to drive assist, does anyone know what size pump i should be looking for, is it just a case of sizing it the same as my pto one (35cc i believe) or is there an advantage of a bigger or smaller one to match (read as 'get closer to') the wheel speed, im worried of having to smaller pump and having to rev the engine to get the speed of the pump up but have the wheels spinning way to fast, or having a pump thats to big and if i do put to many revs on then have to much flow from the pump, also any good ideas on how to run the pump off the front of the engine would be good, there is not much room in front of the v8, the only way i can see is a toothed belt but any other ideas would be welcomed cheers martin

sounds like it was a good event, i was hoping to come and watch as it was local but i couldnt make it, any more pics anyone????

agreed, i think the only way is to either completley encase the belt in some sort of dirt/waterproof housing, this would then mean you could poss use v belts so you dont need such i tight tolerence on the alignment, or use a mechanical link rather than a belt. i have the same problem on my own truck, is there anything out there that you could use to send the drive through 90 degrees, you could then come off the front pulley and then through 90 degrees giving you more room, i was also thinking about the possibility of trying to mod a pto take off for a pto(shaft) winch, this would include the clutch and bring you to the side of the eng where you would able to attatch the pump, i havent checked measurements so not sure if it would be possible.

i think the problem is when you put water and mud into the equation

yeah i know well you have both confirmed my thoughts about the 10 spline and its definatley the origional axle i know that much, i guess ill have to have a look then to be 100% sure, might just wait till it breaks so i dont have to do the job twice. thanks for your help gents cheers martin

as per title, is my front axle 10 or 24 spline? its a factory v8 90 csw 1988, the rear had a 4 pin diff and 24 spline shafts, just wondering whats in the front? any ideas anyone??? cheers martin

mines cracked to so if the price is right i would be interested

exactly, i can see how relieving stress on the chassis bushes is a good idea but im not so sure bending a std radius arm is the best way to go about it

anyone know how he bends them? i guess heat them up first then bend to required angle, if so does this affect there strength?

depends why you want to fit it, if your fitting a second battery for winching or for something with a heavy load/discharge rate i would say yes its worth it, if not then just a split charge system would be fine if your not fitting a second battery then why do you want two alternators??

not sure what you mean by pilot bearing (the one in the end of the crank shaft?) if so thats easy to change anyway had to do it on a manual conversion i done still its been in and running for three years and done about 25000 miles so cant be causing much of a problem

ive got a rangerover that i converted from a 3.5efi auto to a 200tdi auto using the original v8 gearbox, the only change was the engine back plate and flywheel so that it would mate to the gearbox, unfortunatley i cant tell you what it is or where to get one from as i got it off of ebay, the only other things were a slight modification to the bell housing for the starter motor as its on the other side, fit a kick down cable bracket and move the engine mounts on the chassis, its quite straight forward if you can source the adaptor HTH martin

that does look good, whats a rough cost for a set up like that?

would rangerover air con fans work as push fans mounted in front of the rad, or are they not good enough?

i thought about doing this, i was going to have the super charger blowing through the turbo and use an electro clutch on the super charger to control when it comes on, basically when the turbo is at full boost you dont need the super charger running as the point is to reduce lag etc not get lots more boost, this could be controlled quite easily with a pressure switch controlling the clutch, the only thing with this system is you need some sort of change over flap so the turbo doesnt have to suck through the supercharger when the supercharger isnt running, its nothing special or complicated but would just need a bit of thought. also the fuel pump wont need any adjusting as it is already sensing the boost pressure and fuels the engine accordingly, all you are doing is getting more boost earlier (not waiting for the turbo) which means it will deliver more fuel therefore more power sooner. i was all set to do this to mine but i happened to stumble across a vnt turbo so i am going down that route instead, i will be very interetsted to see how you get on cheers martin

i did wonder about this but it didnt seem to make any difference, i was only testing with these filters anyway to see what would happen, its back to being direct feed at the moment, ill have a bit more of a play but might just leave it as is to be honest

i tried the fuel filter trick to try and smooth the signal, i was quite suprised with the results, i first tried a small filter approx 35mm long and 2omm dia, no difference then a filter just over twice the size, still no difference i then thought maybe a restrictor would help so used a plug with a 1mm hole in placed in the vacuum hose, still no difference i then had a rummage around and found a big fuel filter, about the size of a coke can, this made a difference, the reading was then fluctuating 41 - 42kpa i fitted everything i had tried inline and still the same result, so now im not sure what to do, how important is a stable map reading? at the end of the day its not affecting the advance so surely it doesnt matter that its not 100% smooth, 1kpa is nothing really is it? looking forward to any comments you may have cheers martin

ok ive done it , i had actually done the same as quagmire in the end, there is indeed the said plug at the rear of the manifold, just for reference and if it helps anyone else in the same position, i removed the vacuum take off adaptor from an efi plenum as per rangeyrovers pic, its the same thread so just screwed straight in to the manifold and its the correct size hose tail, quagmire; interesting to see the reading your getting, with mine in the same place and hose connected direct im getting 40-43kpa at idle approx 650rpm (i think the idle is a little low), good tips about using a sphere or fuel filter to smooth the signal ill report what i find cheers for the advice chaps martin

thanks for the reply rangeyrover, trouble is mine doesnt have that as its in a 90, after a bit of research ive found that there is a non return valve in the fitting for the servo hose, therefore putting a t piece in the servo hose isnt going to work, im going to have to remove this non return valve from the manifold and then get an adaptor/t piece to fit before it, there is also a plug at the back of the manifold that looks like it might be vacuum ill have to remove and check, either way im going to need to remove to find out the thread size, unless anyone here knows, im still interested to find out what others have done when running carbs? it seems to be easier on the efi's thanks again martin