Jump to content

darthdicky

Settled In
  • Posts

    653
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by darthdicky

  1. We’re heading from different areas of the country and haven’t decided yet whether to go Friday evening or early Saturday morning yet, we’ll see some of you up there!
  2. Is anyone going this coming weekend? Jon and I are heading up there for a long overdue muck about in the mud
  3. It does seem like a good use of a 3D printer Simon, but I'm not sure if plastic would be flexible enough to fit between the fins unless very precisely made? Rubber may be better perhaps? Unfortunately mine isn't a branded light and I got it second hand so I don't know what make it is or whether there's a market for more of them, so I'm tempted to say it's probably not worth much effort! I'm not worried about heat build up as they are spaced out and I'll only ever switch it on at night when it's not very hot anyway. Want to avoid the other options which seem suggested online which is putting rubber strips or tape along the whole thing which would cause problems with heat. I have just spotted this though, so tempted to order a pack for £9.50 and see if they fit: https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/uk/lightbar-isolator-kit.html but shipping is £13.50 Edit: Found them in the UK for £13.89 delivered here: https://www.aj4wdoutfitters.co.uk/product-page/lightbar-isolator-kit-by-front-runner-ligh907 so will see if they work
  4. Has anyone found a good source for something to stop light bars whistling? It seems a common complaint and plenty of cheap plastic things are available in the US, but not over here? https://hidkitpros.com/shop/rubber-windwhistle-isolator-for-led-light-bars/ Just seems to be a small bit of plastic which wedges between the cooling fins and stops them vibrating at motorway speeds. Anyone got a good source or an alternative fix? Richard
  5. I've got a broken forward facing PTO going spare if it would be any use? Broken as in the casing hit a tree stump (nothing to do with my driving!) and cracked it in two...
  6. Not had any problems with mine James and I think Jon or I converted his 90 years ago with no issues either. Just in the process of changing my rear hoses to the same setup at the moment, although they will be cable tied tight to the axle when I’ve finished! All mine were from Llama4x4. I think they also do super long ones which can run down the radius arm rather than flap about like mine do.
  7. Also, pic of fire extinguisher and battery/winch cutouts above
  8. Just found some in the garage and the instructions say you can also use hose clamps to hold them in place, as long as you use the plastic insert part
  9. You can use the small quick fists back to back with the larger ones, which may give a better grip on the bulkhead bar than cable ties? Mine is in the passenger footwell with the battery and winch cutouts above it, will try to remember to get a pic later Richard
  10. Surely if there were any issues with items that were replaced following an accident, then it would be for LR and the insurer to sort out between themselves? I agree it wouldn't be a very nice situation to be stuck in the middle of the two arguing though...
  11. Thanks Paddy, I've ended up re-using my old ones having spent ages trying to find replacements that fitted. A local LR specialist sold me two which were the right thread but too long and he told me they were 3BA. Having bought some more 3BA screws I can confirm they are different to what he sold me and don't fit! Worth noting that the piece that holds it together has two screws in the top half and two in the bottom - so to get it apart you only need to unscrew the top or bottom two on each side. Could have saved some time had I known you don't need to try and undo all of them. My window is now back in again with the Woolies trim pieces in there and seems to allow them to slide nicely but not rattle - although I haven't taken it out for a drive yet. 4m of trim was enough with a little left over, and it wasn't too bad to slide in there with plenty of silicone spray. Horrible, horrible job to get the plastic parts out (which in my case I definitely needed to do - there's no way it would fit with it in there) but I'm glad it's done now.
  12. That's brilliant but in your case would it not be quicker to remove the canvas and hood sticks to fit it in? Or is there a taller roll bar in there which still gets in the way? Having had this problem in the past I got a set of old 16" rims with 205's on and swapped the rear tyres over when I wanted it, but having had a bit of a moment at the end of a long weekend away where I stupidly removed all the wheelnuts on one side before I'd jacked it up and it nearly fell on me, I would recommend a solution that is quick, easy and most of all safe! It also put me off taking it out for shorter trips locally as it was a pain to swap them over. I ended up changing vehicles and the new one just fits as it's a truck cab. Just have to remember to take the CB aerial off first... Rich
  13. Thanks Ralph, it looks like they're No. 6 * 1/4" countersunk machine screws but that thread also shows them being run through with a tap and the countersinking not quite going far enough, so I'm not sure if it's the original size? Might get hold of some anyway on the off chance...
  14. Having spent quite some time trying to remove it, I've decided that the Delta tek bearing still spins freely and the end plate is not that corroded so I'm just going to leave it be. It's quite quick to get apart and can be refurbished at another point in the future if I really want to smarten it up or the bearing starts to seize up. Next challenge - any good tips for removing the mainshaft bearing? Whilst mine still moves freely it's quite gritty and slightly rusty and I've bought a replacement, I just can't get it out! Don't want to bash it too hard as I don't want to crack or bend the casing. Wondering if drilling a hole through the centre and then using a hacksaw to get to the edge might do it?
  15. And to anyone considering doing this themselves, at this stage my advice is don't do it! It may be possible to bend the plastic/metal track in slightly at the top and bottom just enough to stop it rattling? I wish I'd tried that first before I pulled it all apart.
  16. Can anyone confirm what size the screws are that hold the frame together? Have mangled mine getting them out so would like to replace the ones that have come out. Seem to be 8mm long, thought I may have seen someone mention they were M3 countersunk but I can't seem to find that post again?
  17. Maybe it's just me or maybe Truck cab windows are different, but I'm having a nightmare doing this on mine. There seems to be a plastic/metal track that the windows run in and that's too narrow for the Woolies replacement to fit in. I've managed to remove it from the top half after a few hours battling with it, and I'm not looking forward to doing the lower half. Once this has been removed the Woolies trim does seem to slide in reasonably neatly once the window has been split in two - I'm not sure if it will just drop in as that may be easier than trying to get it round the corners. Photos attached of before, partway through, then once I'd figured out it's easier to get a screwdriver down both sides to make it thinner then use another screwdriver to push it from one end and then it pops out eventually. And the state the thing is in now - need to try and smooth it off a bit and give it a coat of paint before I stick it back together again.
  18. And final question for today, should this end plate just lift off, or is there a hidden circlip or something holding it on? It all turns smoothly so I don't want to whack it too hard, but I'd like to get the grey part off to clean it up and possibly paint it. It's not just lifting off so I've soaked it in WD40, tapped with a mallet a few times but doesn't seem to be budging yet...
  19. Having cleaned up the mainshaft a bit with some wire wool, I think it needs a little more cleaning up on the part where the brake fits to avoid it corroding on again. Probably a daft question but what sort of dremel fitting would clean this up nicely without damaging the metal underneath? In a similar vein, what would be slightly more abrasive and take a tiny bit off the edge of the round gear and/or shim? It's got a few nicks in it where it's been forced in/out before so the round shim/washer doesn't fit on easily. I just want to get it smooth and round again so the shim fits back on. It was a real pain to get off and won't be easy to bash back on again when I put it back in. It's held on by a circlip so it doesn't have to be a perfect fit from what I can tell?
  20. So I've finally found some more enthusiasm to finish the job, having bought a pile of bits from Gigglepin last year and then lost interest and put it away in a box. It's all apart and having cleaned things up a bit, the two lower gears have clearly been rubbing together at some point. Not sure whether that may be in the past if someone put it together with one the wrong way around? Or do they all end up doing this as there's nothing really to stop them rubbing? Don't think it's terminal, it all worked fine in the past and the drum slides onto the main gear fine.
  21. Exmoor Trim told me that they are pretty much identical as they use the same frame, the only big difference is the headrest as you say. Have a look at their website and you can see the difference in foam shape between the two types. Do try them out before you make a change though, I much prefer the shape of the older ones which to me feel like you sit "in" them with much better side support. The newer Puma ones I feel you sit "on", sit slightly closer to the wheel (especially in a truck cab) and there's no side-to-side support in the backrest. I've taken the newer ones out of mine and moved back to the old style ones. Partly because I hated the vinyl in summer but mainly because of the shape!
  22. It seems prices have gone up in the last 10 years - this trim is now £7.50/metre! Can anyone confirm how much is needed for a truck cab? It looks like the part the window slides in is 1.9m, as I'm assuming the rubber end part isn't touched at all? Therefore 4m should do both channels? Richard
  23. I've got the MXS 5 one for the 90 and a smaller one for the motorbike and I'm really pleased with them. I've still had to replace batteries which were old (bike was probably original at 10 years and one of the ones in the 90 was probably 10 too) but they have certainly lasted longer with the chargers on them. Would definitely recommend them. If you're just looking for a trickle charger which will turn itself back on after a power cut could you use one of the CTEK motorbike ones? Probably don't need 5amp charging for that kind of use?
  24. Hi Tony, Not sure if it's the answer you're looking for but page 111 from the manual here: http://landrover.narod.ru/DEFENDER/TGVWorkshop_Manual.pdf may help? Richard
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy