darthdicky
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Posts posted by darthdicky
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Even found some photos of the clutch mechanism
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Dave at Southdown made me up this guard nearly 20 years ago now. The guard lives on but the winch has gone!
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Shows how much it hung under the chassis by - not much but enough to catch
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Found some old photos actually.
Tip 1: Don't hit tree stumps with the bottom of the PTO
Tip 2: Don't overtighten the overload clutch as the chain can snap, and then you can't take the load off the winch
Tip 3: Electric winches are far simpler for self recovery!
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Just had a look round my old files and things and can't find anything for the PTO, however I do still have a broken one sat in the garage.
From memory the bolt in the red cover only holds the cover on (don't overtighten it as it'll crack the cover!) which then lets you see the overload clutch. This can be loosened by undoing a grub screw and turning the outer ring - however make sure you make a note of how tight/how many turns it takes to undo, as that sets when the clutch cuts in. It's quite a simple system when you take it apart - based on some flexible plates and ball bearings - but if it's set too loose it'll just click at any sign of load and if it's too tight it might break the chain/cable rather than cutting out at the right amount.
If it's been set correctly and works fine I would be tempted to leave it be. Or buy the remains of mine and take that apart to see how it works 🤣
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I think most of Gwyns ones are made by https://www.firowpropshafts.co.uk/ to his spec. I bought his to replace mine and am very happy with them. One of my old ones didn't have the ability to grease the slider and the joint had worn, so I think it's definitely worth being able to grease that part.
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Having done this job last year and battled to get the brake off, I ended up using one of these pullers and it did the job: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht270-3-pce-gear-puller-set/
Richard
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We’re heading from different areas of the country and haven’t decided yet whether to go Friday evening or early Saturday morning yet, we’ll see some of you up there!
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Is anyone going this coming weekend? Jon and I are heading up there for a long overdue muck about in the mud
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It does seem like a good use of a 3D printer Simon, but I'm not sure if plastic would be flexible enough to fit between the fins unless very precisely made? Rubber may be better perhaps?
Unfortunately mine isn't a branded light and I got it second hand so I don't know what make it is or whether there's a market for more of them, so I'm tempted to say it's probably not worth much effort!
I'm not worried about heat build up as they are spaced out and I'll only ever switch it on at night when it's not very hot anyway. Want to avoid the other options which seem suggested online which is putting rubber strips or tape along the whole thing which would cause problems with heat.
I have just spotted this though, so tempted to order a pack for £9.50 and see if they fit: https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/uk/lightbar-isolator-kit.html but shipping is £13.50
Edit: Found them in the UK for £13.89 delivered here: https://www.aj4wdoutfitters.co.uk/product-page/lightbar-isolator-kit-by-front-runner-ligh907 so will see if they work
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A bidding war - excellent!
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Has anyone found a good source for something to stop light bars whistling? It seems a common complaint and plenty of cheap plastic things are available in the US, but not over here?
https://hidkitpros.com/shop/rubber-windwhistle-isolator-for-led-light-bars/
Just seems to be a small bit of plastic which wedges between the cooling fins and stops them vibrating at motorway speeds.
Anyone got a good source or an alternative fix?
Richard
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I've got a broken forward facing PTO going spare if it would be any use? Broken as in the casing hit a tree stump (nothing to do with my driving!) and cracked it in two...
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Not had any problems with mine James and I think Jon or I converted his 90 years ago with no issues either. Just in the process of changing my rear hoses to the same setup at the moment, although they will be cable tied tight to the axle when I’ve finished! All mine were from Llama4x4. I think they also do super long ones which can run down the radius arm rather than flap about like mine do.
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Also, pic of fire extinguisher and battery/winch cutouts above
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Just found some in the garage and the instructions say you can also use hose clamps to hold them in place, as long as you use the plastic insert part
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On 5/13/2021 at 11:04 AM, ThreePointFive said:
I can use the bulkhead replacement bar to mount quick fists using some substantial cable ties.
I can't fit it to the driver's side seatbox as the X-End pedal lock flips down, might be able to go into the passenger side but my monster battery cut off switch is likely going to get in the way - I'll take a look later.
You can use the small quick fists back to back with the larger ones, which may give a better grip on the bulkhead bar than cable ties?
Mine is in the passenger footwell with the battery and winch cutouts above it, will try to remember to get a pic later
Richard
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Surely if there were any issues with items that were replaced following an accident, then it would be for LR and the insurer to sort out between themselves? I agree it wouldn't be a very nice situation to be stuck in the middle of the two arguing though...
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Thanks Paddy, I've ended up re-using my old ones having spent ages trying to find replacements that fitted. A local LR specialist sold me two which were the right thread but too long and he told me they were 3BA. Having bought some more 3BA screws I can confirm they are different to what he sold me and don't fit!
Worth noting that the piece that holds it together has two screws in the top half and two in the bottom - so to get it apart you only need to unscrew the top or bottom two on each side. Could have saved some time had I known you don't need to try and undo all of them.
My window is now back in again with the Woolies trim pieces in there and seems to allow them to slide nicely but not rattle - although I haven't taken it out for a drive yet.
4m of trim was enough with a little left over, and it wasn't too bad to slide in there with plenty of silicone spray.
Horrible, horrible job to get the plastic parts out (which in my case I definitely needed to do - there's no way it would fit with it in there) but I'm glad it's done now.
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That's brilliant but in your case would it not be quicker to remove the canvas and hood sticks to fit it in? Or is there a taller roll bar in there which still gets in the way?
Having had this problem in the past I got a set of old 16" rims with 205's on and swapped the rear tyres over when I wanted it, but having had a bit of a moment at the end of a long weekend away where I stupidly removed all the wheelnuts on one side before I'd jacked it up and it nearly fell on me, I would recommend a solution that is quick, easy and most of all safe! It also put me off taking it out for shorter trips locally as it was a pain to swap them over. I ended up changing vehicles and the new one just fits as it's a truck cab. Just have to remember to take the CB aerial off first...
Rich
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Thanks Ralph, it looks like they're No. 6 * 1/4" countersunk machine screws but that thread also shows them being run through with a tap and the countersinking not quite going far enough, so I'm not sure if it's the original size? Might get hold of some anyway on the off chance...
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Having spent quite some time trying to remove it, I've decided that the Delta tek bearing still spins freely and the end plate is not that corroded so I'm just going to leave it be. It's quite quick to get apart and can be refurbished at another point in the future if I really want to smarten it up or the bearing starts to seize up.
Next challenge - any good tips for removing the mainshaft bearing? Whilst mine still moves freely it's quite gritty and slightly rusty and I've bought a replacement, I just can't get it out! Don't want to bash it too hard as I don't want to crack or bend the casing.
Wondering if drilling a hole through the centre and then using a hacksaw to get to the edge might do it?
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And to anyone considering doing this themselves, at this stage my advice is don't do it! It may be possible to bend the plastic/metal track in slightly at the top and bottom just enough to stop it rattling? I wish I'd tried that first before I pulled it all apart.
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Can anyone confirm what size the screws are that hold the frame together? Have mangled mine getting them out so would like to replace the ones that have come out. Seem to be 8mm long, thought I may have seen someone mention they were M3 countersunk but I can't seem to find that post again?
Fairey pto
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Although looking at those photos now, I would question whether the 3 plates were in there the right way around for it to work, which might explain why I had problems with it...