darthdicky

Maybe it's just me or maybe Truck cab windows are different, but I'm having a nightmare doing this on mine. There seems to be a plastic/metal track that the windows run in and that's too narrow for the Woolies replacement to fit in. I've managed to remove it from the top half after a few hours battling with it, and I'm not looking forward to doing the lower half. Once this has been removed the Woolies trim does seem to slide in reasonably neatly once the window has been split in two - I'm not sure if it will just drop in as that may be easier than trying to get it round the corners. Photos attached of before, partway through, then once I'd figured out it's easier to get a screwdriver down both sides to make it thinner then use another screwdriver to push it from one end and then it pops out eventually. And the state the thing is in now - need to try and smooth it off a bit and give it a coat of paint before I stick it back together again.

And final question for today, should this end plate just lift off, or is there a hidden circlip or something holding it on? It all turns smoothly so I don't want to whack it too hard, but I'd like to get the grey part off to clean it up and possibly paint it. It's not just lifting off so I've soaked it in WD40, tapped with a mallet a few times but doesn't seem to be budging yet...

Having cleaned up the mainshaft a bit with some wire wool, I think it needs a little more cleaning up on the part where the brake fits to avoid it corroding on again. Probably a daft question but what sort of dremel fitting would clean this up nicely without damaging the metal underneath? In a similar vein, what would be slightly more abrasive and take a tiny bit off the edge of the round gear and/or shim? It's got a few nicks in it where it's been forced in/out before so the round shim/washer doesn't fit on easily. I just want to get it smooth and round again so the shim fits back on. It was a real pain to get off and won't be easy to bash back on again when I put it back in. It's held on by a circlip so it doesn't have to be a perfect fit from what I can tell?

So I've finally found some more enthusiasm to finish the job, having bought a pile of bits from Gigglepin last year and then lost interest and put it away in a box. It's all apart and having cleaned things up a bit, the two lower gears have clearly been rubbing together at some point. Not sure whether that may be in the past if someone put it together with one the wrong way around? Or do they all end up doing this as there's nothing really to stop them rubbing? Don't think it's terminal, it all worked fine in the past and the drum slides onto the main gear fine.

Exmoor Trim told me that they are pretty much identical as they use the same frame, the only big difference is the headrest as you say. Have a look at their website and you can see the difference in foam shape between the two types. Do try them out before you make a change though, I much prefer the shape of the older ones which to me feel like you sit "in" them with much better side support. The newer Puma ones I feel you sit "on", sit slightly closer to the wheel (especially in a truck cab) and there's no side-to-side support in the backrest. I've taken the newer ones out of mine and moved back to the old style ones. Partly because I hated the vinyl in summer but mainly because of the shape!

It seems prices have gone up in the last 10 years - this trim is now £7.50/metre! Can anyone confirm how much is needed for a truck cab? It looks like the part the window slides in is 1.9m, as I'm assuming the rubber end part isn't touched at all? Therefore 4m should do both channels? Richard

I've got the MXS 5 one for the 90 and a smaller one for the motorbike and I'm really pleased with them. I've still had to replace batteries which were old (bike was probably original at 10 years and one of the ones in the 90 was probably 10 too) but they have certainly lasted longer with the chargers on them. Would definitely recommend them. If you're just looking for a trickle charger which will turn itself back on after a power cut could you use one of the CTEK motorbike ones? Probably don't need 5amp charging for that kind of use?

Hi Tony, Not sure if it's the answer you're looking for but page 111 from the manual here: http://landrover.narod.ru/DEFENDER/TGVWorkshop_Manual.pdf may help? Richard

Fab video, what drone were you using? Having done the NC500 on a bike it's definitely the way to do it as overtaking traffic is so much easier (when the motorhomes don't deliberately try to hold you up). Would quite happily go and do it again. Rich

It’s similar but different! It will fit in a PCL XF (possibly the same as a “euro”?) fitting but doesn’t seal properly. Why it has to be similar but different I really don’t know

Don't bin the electronic one, I had to pay about £75 for a new one when mine was playing up! Worth putting up for sale somewhere. Rich

Also thanks for the kind offer Stephen but it was the female part I would have needed.

Found the answer here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic57766.html?highlight=arb+air+fitting Should be any one of these: US "Industrial standard" ISO 6150 B Rectus series 23/24/1400 Tema series 1400 Legris series 23 Norgren Dynaquip D3 Hanson 3000 CEJN 310 US.MIL.C 4109 Norma / AFNOR: NF.E49.053 Parker Rectus Tema Series 23KA Aignep 220 Norgren series 237 Gromelle series 600 PCL ISO B12 However, as pointed out in that thread they tend to be really expensive so I've swapped the connector on the gauge to a PCL XF one. That matches everything else I have (not easy to get it apart, I thought I was going to break the gauge!) and will probably fit another female XF end to the extension I have in the vehicle, or use the one that came off with a PCL female-female connector to make an adaptor - which may have been what Mo was suggesting earlier that I couldn't get my head around! Rich

Not sure I follow Mo....? Don’t really want to go chopping what I’ve got up as it all works fine separately, I just want an adaptor piece so I can use the gauge on both, I think...

Thanks Gary but as we’re currently in lockdown again, I was hoping someone had found what I need online! It’s possibly an ARB 171402 for the female part and 171307 for the male one, but nowhere seems to have them available.

Just bought one of these air gauges https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/arb-air-gauge-arb605/ to blow up my tyres, but have found it uses the ARB type fitting which isn’t compatible with the PCL XF ones I have in the garage. It fits nicely on the extension hose which fits the compressor on the car, but 90% of my use is in the garage and it’s a pain getting a different hose out and running the little ARB compressor for that. Having had a good look around, I’m stumped as to what connector ARB use and more importantly where I can buy one? I think I just need a bit of hose which goes from XF male to ARB female, but where can I get one? Annoyingly I have one here, I just need another!

Cheers James, will have to get an order in with Screwfix sometime

Which lights did you go for in the end @Retroanaconda? Need to improve mine as a few of my fluorescent ones are on the blink

Painting my bumper at the moment and starting to think that either Hammerite isn’t the right thing to use or I need to improve my technique! What’s the best way to get it to really stick well? What’s the best way to prepare the surface? Do I need to put primer on first? Not looking for spectacular finish, just something that doesn’t scratch off with the slightest touch. Also want to do the axles at some point so want to get this done properly.

Glad it’s sorted. Mine is a TGV engine and it’s not clear whether they all had a hole in the flywheel - I’ve watched it go round so many times and whilst there are marks and holes, I’m pretty convinced that mine just doesn’t have them in the right place!

I took the little plate off the back of mine and spent a lot of time trying to work out where the bolt goes in, but came to the conclusion mine doesn’t have whatever hole or Mark is meant to be in there. Looking with a mirror is worth a try as mine is far from standard!

If it all spins round fine then it should be okay, but as I’ve found they do seem quite tolerant of running however they are set up. If you do find a way to make sure it’s spot on, please do let me know!

Certainly was! To be honest I don’t know how it’s done, I ended up taking it to someone who knows what they’re doing who mentioned using a DTI to do it properly. As far as I could tell there is no marking where the flywheel would be to lock in place, so you can make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC and just rely on the marks in the timing case. If it seems to run fine then it shouldn’t be a problem. Mine ran fine but had very little power, high EGT’s and terrible fuel consumption. Re-calibrating the injection pump and setting the timing properly has made a big difference to mine, but I don’t know how much of that was down to the timing. Richard

I'd hate to see your feet if you bought condoms when you needed socks 😂

I got some from here recently: https://www.etbinstruments.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=100_97&product_id=180 Carriage was £2.45 but I think it worked out cheaper than Merlin Motorsport overall. Rich