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isuzurover

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Everything posted by isuzurover

  1. Where are you? I am in Australia... but anyway: Brian Hjelm 61 7-3399-7033 Or contact via www.aulro.com website
  2. Isn't it always the way... I don't know anyone who has twisted/broken a genuine relay, but quite a few who have with aftermarket ones - what about you Bill? (they are still pathetically small shafts like you say). Btw - great tech as always Bill. Now borrow a camera (and cable) from someone and make with the pics. Btw btw - it wasn't our fault Joh "don't you worry about that, let me worry about that" Bjelkepetersen (sp?) kept getting re-elected, the bugger changed the voting rules - So we can either blame him or the Cowcockies who voted him in every time...
  3. Some specs to help you decide: Rangie Diff - 8.25" diameter spiral bevel cw and pinion Salisbury - 9.5" HYPOID cw and pinion (hypoid diffs have more teeth in mesh so are MUCH stronger - even for identical diameters) Rangie diff - 1 cross shaft and 2 tiny spider gears Salisbury - 2 cross shafts and 4 spider gears Rangie diff - 1.1" diameter, 10-spline halfshafts (but can be upgraded to salisbury size) Salisbury - 1.24" 24-spline halfshafts - but can be upgraded to 1.3" 30 spline or 1.5" 35 spline (and beyond) using Dana 60 components. Also - a SIII and a one-ten Salisbury have a short halfshaft the same length. I never ever regretted fitting a salisbury. And as for changing one in the field - (1) you won't need to, and (2) removing the centre and crownwheel is a matter of 5 minutes with a spanner and a tyre lever. Refitting just needs a soft hammer. Removing the pinion gear is another matter though. As mentioned above - no special kit required. No upgrades are needed for the salisbury - BUT - there are actually more upgrades available (most ex US) if you use DANA 60 parts - which are almost identical. There are people in the US using Dana 60's with 44" wheel and not breaking anything.
  4. What is so "horrible" about that? I have seen it done a few times and it works well. I don't know what all of you are saying is so hard. I know at least 2 conversions using Rangie FRONT discs and FRONT calipers - that can run standard series rims too. You just need to remove the normal mounting bracket from the caliper, fit longer bolts to join the 2 halves of the caliper together, and use them as the mounting points.
  5. What Bill said - it is a lot of work even to keep the low range as low as 2.35 when the high range is increased to 1:1. Why not fit an LT77 or R380 with LT230? Have the choice of high range from 1:1 to 1.4:1 and low range of 3.32:1
  6. Actually I just arranged to buy BOTH taps for about 1/3 the price I paid for the track rod.
  7. Paul, - Rick is in Australia, so his supplier would be no good to you. Since you are in Germany? then contact Mann+Hummel to see if they make anything for your engine. Otherwise look up the Donaldson europe website to see who your local suppliers are.
  8. Old one was beyond straightening (or beyond getting it straight enough to sleeve). The QT/Sumo one seems well made, and was only about the same price as getting 2 taps and some steel to make one myself. Since found out that the QT one is 29mm OD and the Maxi-Drive version is 32mm OD.
  9. Looking good Michele - is it finished yet?
  10. Turned my standard track rod into a banana on one of the tracks over here in Perth. Since I couldn't get a LH tap to make my own, was forced to buy a commercial one. The one I ended up with looks like a QT services one and has a part number starting with QT on it. So who has one of these, and anyone managed to bend one?
  11. Couldn't be easier to replace, and if I remember correctly you don't even need t bleed the pump afterwards. Just remove the nuts holding the engine stop and throttle connections on, then remove the two bolts holding the housing on the side. It is rare for the housing gasket to leak, it is usually the o-rings on the engine stop or throttle shafts.
  12. The buggy looks great, well done. I would be interested to hear how the ashcroft CVs hold up in a rear steer application...
  13. I always change my engine oil when hot. As mentioned above there is no guarantee you will get everything (sludge, etc) out when the engine is cold. If you use good oil and change the oil regularly, it shouldn't matter, but to be on the safe side, why not, it only takes a few minutes extra. I have pulled down a couple of engines (not previously serviced by me) for rebuilds or parts, which have had deposity of semi-solid sludge in parts of the engine. I don't know if this was oil sludge or if the owners had put engine stop leak in, but either way, why take the chance. Incidentally, filters (oil and air) become more efficient the more dust they collect (at the expense of increasing pressure drop). So leaving an oil filter on a bit longer will not do any extra harm, as long as it doesn't collect too many particles and the pressure drop across it becomes too high.
  14. The only reason the 2.25D has such a bad reputation is because the 2.25P is such a strong engine (because they share all critical components). If they are looked after and not abused they will run fine for many years, and the same CAV pump and injectors are still used on new diesels!!! Your problem could have been something as simple as water in the fuel. When did you last drain the filter(s)? It could also have been a stuck nozzle. If you have never had the nozzles tested, now would be a good time. They are prone to cracking, especially if overheated.
  15. 4.10 and 4.11 should both use the same carrier. AFAIK there are only two different lockers, 30 spline and 35 spline (and possibly 16-spline as well?). I don't think there is a difference in the carrier between full float and semi-float - but maybe they say that since all (or almost all) 35 spline D60's were semi-floating.
  16. You guys should go carp fishing in Australia, you could have about 50 3' carp in an hour in some places. The uncle of a mate of mine wades into the creek on his property and gets them out with a pitchfork when the water is low in the dry season!!!
  17. There are some D60's floating around the UK, so a scrapyard might have a prop flange. Otherwise contact keith from rovertracks, he sourced some used D60 diff gears cheaply for me. Dana is also an option, don't know how much they are new though...
  18. Fishing rod in one hand, glass of wine in the other? Throughout my fishing "career" I have caught mostly carp and eels, the two things I am least interested in catching. An uncle of mine once shot a carp with a .303
  19. I have fished for carp (and lots of other fish) in OZ - but that is very different to the "Coarse Fishing" used to catch carp in europe. In OZ it is illegal to throw carp (or even so much as a scale) back in the water. I have done (and still have the gear for): Fly fishing - fun but use a lure/bait/spinner instead if you actually want a good chance of catching something Lure/bait fishing (mostly freshwater - murray cod, perch, etc). Beach/Surf fishing Deep Sea/Reef fishing
  20. As others have said - big difference between 100-150psi and 1500-3000psi. My (home made) air tanks are 5mm wall seamless hydraulic pipe with 6mm end caps, and only ever see 120psi max.
  21. There are several options - you could look at all the genuine Dana-Spicer axles that are available, and see if there are any FF 35 spline axles that are the right length for you (or close). You would have to redrill/machine the integral drive flange to the rover pattern, and these would not be as strong as a good aftermarket axle, but they would be cheap. Second option is that any axle maker who can cut splines with a 30° pressure angle should be able to make the shafts you need. Personally, I would get some 35-spline side gears and weld the rear diff before I would fit a detroit (would be cheaper too)!
  22. Have a look here for some ideas http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/...pic.php?t=80331
  23. Michele knows Italy like the back of his hand - it is only when he crosses the border he gets hopelessly lost
  24. I agree with Bill - Get either a Macnamara locker or an ARB D60 locker. I was quoted about US$670 for a D60 ARB in the states. AFAIK macnamara are the only source of the 35-spline stub axles. Lots of sources for the halfshafts though.
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