SteveRK

Its running with a weak mixture, hence overly fast idle in nuetral, but stalls when a load is applied to the engine (in drive) You need to have a look first for any split/damaged hoses that may be connected to the inlet manifold before tackling the engine management components Check for any air leaks into the inlet manifold.

I would not expect a drain hole in any gearbox as oil does not mix with water. The vent tube will be the only way water can get into the gearbox

I agree with all the above posts - no smoke = no fuel. Although a different engine my non turbo transit doesn't have glow plugs, instead the pump is meant to advance the fuel timing to match ambient temperature, but it doesn't. So long long as the temperature is above 10c it starts on the button. When its cold it doesn't - but it makes smoke! With the current temperatures you won't need pre-heat.

Your welcome, at this stage of your investigations my approach would be to try and eliminate possible causes to the point where there is only one explanation, rather than trying to find/pinpoint the cause. Its an approach i try to adopt when I get stumped with a problem, and of course good Detectives follow this course when investigating crimes (well Inspector Morse did!)

This isn't a suggestion/answer but some observations: Unlike the front suspension the rear suspension is 'pivoted' around the A frame ball joint located midpoint across the axle. Bearing in mind the relatively high body attitude if the vehicle is parked on a side slope there will be some degree of lean of the body that may be more pronounced at the rear than the front due to the pivot point between the axle and chassis? If the front springs are of a differant rate, and or subjected to a differant load than the rear then this will also result in differant lean angles in theside slope scenario above. It might be that the problem is with the front suspension. In order to allow the rear of the vehicle to adopt a lean then a corresponding lift on the opposing front corner will be needed, unless the whole body is twisting, or the body mounts are compressing, or there is clearence opening up due to a loose bolt. I would put the front chassis up on stands to elliminate the front suspension whilst parked on a side slope and observe what happens at the rear as a start.

Going back to your first post it is not clear whether the problem occurred as a result of all the work done, or the work was done to try and cure the problem. I had Michelin Pilot Primacy tyres fitted and no issues with tracking or following the road camber. I then had four new General TR tyres fitted and immediately noticed that more steering input was required on local roads compared to when the Michelin's were fitted.

Any air in the pressure system, once compressed, should not cause the pump to cut in on 'every pedal press' Mine cuts in after 3 or 4 hard presses and is probably a bit tired (175,000 miles) and MOST importantly it cuts in without pressing the pedal after switching the ignition off for around 15 minutes and switching back on. Do the same test on yours. Allow it to pressurise and cut out with the ignition on. Switch off for 5 minutes. Switch ignition back on, If it cuts in straight away you have an air leak somewhere resulting in a pressure drop.

My experience with driving in the dark is the roads have never been better lit, it wasn't that long ago that sealed beam headlights were quite sufficient. Of course the problem now is dazzling oncoming headlights which is driving an 'arms race' to fit brighter lights on our own vehicles so that we can see where we are going. On an unlit road with no oncoming vehicles std' fitments lights are quite adequate surely??? My daily driver has std fitment HID lamps with auto levelling. They are only 45 watts and yes compared to new Audi A4s (the worst offenders for dazzle surely) they are dim but as above quite adequate.

Whats the current status? does it run? When the AA arrived had it lost much coolant?

I think its more a case of petrol being cheaper than diesel out there. In Holland for example petrol is cheaper than diesel. In the UK diesel has historically been cheaper than petrol unti around 2004/5 when it started to become more expensive. I cant see any of the oil refinerys making 'sub standard' fuel for china

swap the springs over from left to right before condemming them, its a half hor job to do

Sounds like you have jumped in at the deep end in stripping the engine before checking to easier first test items. Thermostats don't open very much, maybe 2mm, but equally as importantly they should open before the water starts bubbling/boiling, the 'stat will have the temperature number stamped on it usually so you need a thermometer to test the water temp when it opens. A 'stat opening around boiling point will likely cause overheating in the engine. Did you check that the water pump impeller is not sheared and also for any blockages in the radiator or other water channels that need to conduct the flow of water when the 'stat opens?

Personally i wouldn't entertain trying to weld in new Z sections. I sourced a mild steel steel cut accurately to size with the fuel pump hole cut and welded some U channel sections underneath to give rigidity. It straddles the across the Z sections by around half inch per side to touch the inner wheel arches and is secured with a number of M6 stainless screws each side and some underseal between the floor section and original side support floor. No welding to fit and can be removed if required. Absolutely no problem with MOTs, noise levels or rigidity to take heavy loads. See: Fast forward to 4mins 30 seconds for details on the floor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zF4ow4ebYI

I agree, in fact its virtually impossible due to the horizontal ledge thats level with the floor so you cant get up to reach the upper bolts. Removing the rear wing is not a serious job at all. The important bit is to slice all the body sealer at the front (rear door opening) and around the back tailgate area.

oh dear! i hope so too