turbodave

Wow, Perhaps waxoyl changed? I thought it was the best stuff out there. What else is there that compares? Schultz obviously - I recall something called dinstrol? But I clearly have the name wrong...

Oil coolers definately were fitted to the 4.0 models, but the pipes and unions occasionally give problems IIRC - so I'd just stick to MOCAL branded hose and coolers if you wanted...

I actually have the horns, radiator and engine out right now, it's getting a new top-hat block from V8Developments. Thanks for the pointers on the chassis - so it's not my imagination that these seem less robust than the D1 chassis then!

Well, simple enough - I figure some early '99's must be starting to get flaky right now - where are the 'problem areas'? I was told that the roof either side of the rear door is the main place, but can't understand how this can be??? I've got a 2003 that I want to keep for many more years, and the Waxoyl jumbo kit. Please point me in the right direction!

USA D2's were 4.0 from '99 to late 2002. For the 2003 model year, they stopped the 4.0 and replaced it with the 4.6. Oil coolers were only fitted to pre 2003 models - or at least my April 2003 manufactured 4.6 doesn't have an oil cooler - just a couple of big blanking plugs in the front cover.

I'm about to do a freshen-up of my v8 - and notice that if I purchase genuine branded (ie boxed federal mogul / AE / Landrover) rings or shells, this will cost me twice as much as 'allmakes' or 'britparts' branded items... Has anyone personal experiences of the non-OE branded items compared to genuine?

That is a very good point Les... I won't bother dropping it. Saves the effort of removing the tow bar as well. Anyone know if these locking rings and seals the same on 1993/4 defenders as well? If so, I can easilly get these parts stateside...

Ah, that little bugger on the end is clearly the problem area!!! That pic sums it up nicely. Thanks fella.

After a 1000-mile trip in my '83 with the 200tdi working hard pulling a 8000lb trailer all the way, I clearly need to do something with the fuel pickup. Despite fitting an electric lift pump before setting off (see other post on this), just 250 miles after setting off, I suffered from fuel starvation - in that the lift pump couldn't suck anything out of the line. I removed the fuel cap - still no better. So. I crawled into a hot engine bay, laid atop the 200, disconnected the line, put it to my lips and blew down the line. I then sucked fuel in - till I just got the dieso in my gob, then blew it all backwards. This allowed my lift pump to work just fine - for another 300-odd miles at least till I had to repeat it all again... So, I am guessing there is some kind od gauze or fine mesh on the fuel pickup line in the tank which is getting covered with old carp. I can see a drain plug on the bottom of the tank, but I reckon it'd be better to pull the fuel pickup - if this is possible? Does the pickup/return pipe come out with the sender unit - or it's own plate? Or are they soldered/brazed into the tank? Do I need to drop the tank to gain access?

Good idea, I'll do that sometime soon.

Well, just to report that I got a cheap low-pressure fuel pump, plumbed it in, and the Tdi is now a flyer. Given the apparent unreliability of the manual units, it seems that an electric pump might be a good option if their mechanical unit gives out, or a replacement is needed in a hurry...

I found out that my lift pump has a sheared pin. Strange thing is, no-one in the USA seems to carry parts for the 200tdi So, can I fit (temporarilly) a small electric fuel pump - one for a carburated car for example - that doesn't make a lot of pressure (like 3 or 4 psi). I guess if the pump is ok with diesel it should work? Thoughts?

This is in my '83 110 which benefitted from a 200tdi upgrade. The engine starts and idles fine, but after giving it some proper beans today, it started to lose power. I left it to idle, and then it ran up fine again - only to lose power 20 seconds later. Searching through old posts, it certainly seems like it's either a blocked filter / lines / tank pickup screen - OR - a bad lift pump. What I can't figure out is how lift pumps 'kind of' work - surely if they fail, it's because the diaphram has split and they won't supply ANY fuel? Is this not suggesting that my problem is more likely filter/line related? I wish I could just go and find a new filter, but unfortunately I'm in the USA. I did order one ages ago to have on-hand, but misplaced it before fitting it... What is the 'bleeding' procedure for this engine?

I searched, and found this link: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/nonmetallic.html which tells me it is one of two poo-browns, but am still none the wiser if it is russet or rowan? Here is a picture of it. Admittedly it is faded and this is before it got T-cut'd, but hopefully someone can identify which of the two it is... http://www.davecoxon.co.uk/Baltimore/DC_110_3.JPG

Well, that leaves me feeling a little silly! I guess I've been looking at pics of bulkheads with replaced footwels! I think I'm going to make my own up as the sides are fine - it is just the other parts that are bogus. What do you reckon then, 16 gauge (1.5mm) as a suitable thickness?