mickeyw

Agreed ^^^

There are a few different tune resistors used, cat, non-cat, different country emission spec etc. Very easy to change once you have found it on the loom (it's normally all taped up). Mine was close to the ECU (Disco 3.9). It's on a nice 2-pin plug. As I understand it the ECU will switch to the relevant software map according to which resistor is fitted. A bit like having dip switches I suppose. Now I think you want the green one. It's either that or the white one, I can't remember which one I removed and fitted, but I definitely had a green and a white one about. The one I removed is in my garage, I can have a look what colour it is later on. Alternatively, Microcat will confirm which one you need, I don't have immediate access. As for oil coolers, remember that off-road work can be very hard work for an engine, and you have very little air flow through the engine bay compared with m/way driving. An engine oil cooler is certainly a good idea, a auto box definitely needs one. I am using the RRC bog brush cooler for my transmission, I have seen two of these plumbed in series for extra cooling. I have no experience of the type you linked to, but as long as it has enough capacity/flow it will work. The one in your link looks like it's for small cars though

:hysterical: Used to be a Tdi, now it's not. Engine type conversion often needs fuel type conversion.

AFAIK galved and painted cappings are fitted to pick-up bodied vehicles. By this reasoning what you are asking for should be available. Sorry I can't provide part numbers at the moment.

Ahhhhhh!!!!!! Now it all makes sense to me

I would mount the g/box in the correct place. If it is a Disco t/box you will need to change the hi/lo housing for a Defender type. Then the trf lever will be in the right place on the tunnel. It will also keep all propshaft parts as off the shelf items and no silly short/crazy angles to contend with. You will end up with the engine in 300tdi forward mounted position I understand your situation correctly. I would be inclined the bite the bullet and weld some new engine mounts in where needed. You'll have to grind of the galv first though. Alternatively, why not make up some new engine mounts that can be bolted to the chassis, in the same way the gearbox mounts do? There is no reason you cannot drill the chassis for the bolts, and fit tubes to stop it being crushed. Drill the hole the size on the bolt on the inside and the size of the tube on the chassis outer face. You could get away without welding the tubes to the chassis as once the bolts are all done up they can't go anywhere. If it was me I'd weld them just to make assembly easier.

If your truck has had the engine fitted by someone other than the factory it is difficult know what parts may have been used. There are off-the-shelf exhaust systems for a factory built 3.5V8 Ninety but if yours has been converted I doubt anything will bolt together without some degree of modification. What part of the pipe do you need to replace?

WTF!!! How does anyone get more than 15MPG from a V8 of any capacity?? Do you all drive like nuns ?? My 3.9 Ninety auto with 255/85 MTs does about 10-11 MPG (on gas) on general run around work, the same gas MPG as my RRC with same power/drive train but standard road tyres. The Rangey can manage 14-ish on a run if I stick below 70MPH.

I have a Nokia E51 that I use with a bluetooth GPS (Holox). I run Tomtom mobile on this and it works a treat. The new E52 has the GPS built in, but rather spendy. Second hand E51s crop up on eBay pretty cheap though, and my GPS device was about £30 a couple of years ago.

I knocked a set of Tracker remoulds out in just 9000 miles! They were the last lot of remoulds I bought. BFG MT's however - the first set I bought 3rd hand and got another 40k miles out of them before I sold them on. They were beyond use in the mud but still road legal.

I bought some from Abtec. They seem to last well.

I would hope the £600 one is brand new. AFAIK a '78 model will be a 3-bolt type. I'd be a little surprised if Paddocks stocked those, recon or otherwise, as they must be fairly uncommon these days. I would trust Adwest, they are the manufacturers of these boxes after all.

I didn't think Tdis ever got that warm Now a V8 on the other hand... I've only ever cooked on the manifold, and it was only a pie warming job at that. I think you'd need a very long drive to cook the kind of meal you have in mind

Have to agree with FF ^^^. As much as I would HATE to drive round in a small cheap n nasty euro/jap box, it does unfortunately make good sense financially. Let the brain rule over the heart I used to have a neighbour with a caravan, which he dragged round with a big Volvo estate. For commuting he had a elderly Mini. He reckoned all the costs involved in buying and running an extra car were still less than if he had commuted 20 miles a day in the Volvo. If you get excessive withdrawal symptoms you can still drive the Landy at the weekend, even if it's not for off-roading.

The trouble with 20 year old stuff is it's very hard to come by these days! They don't make 'em like they used to. I have a Kamasa 1/2" set that must be at least that old, no ergonomic handles or anything like that, and much easier to fit a big bit of pipe over. It also lives in a tin box that is still intact, unlike the plastic case my 15 year old Halfords set lives in.

Hi Pete, Hopefully you want to improve fuel consumption, not increase it Sounds like you want to do some motorway work, so I don't see the lift being too much off an issue. Yes higher equals more wind resistance, but how much difference does it really make? Tyre wise I would get a set of road bias tyres that are not too wide. Wide is more rolling resistance and more £ burnt. Maybe a set of 235/85x16 or even 7.50R16, at least they won't look too silly in your big lifted wheel arches. The old style 7.50 Avon Rangemasters were pretty good for economy and wore well too. For more driver comfort you want to reduce noise levels as much as you can. Before you rush off to buy a soundproofing kit you could make sure the doors all fit well and there's not too much wind noise around them. Reduce vibrations by checking wheel bearings, diffs and UJs are OK, wheels are well balanced etc. Those are the kind of things that make long distance work more stressful. Hope this helps some.

An 88" 2.25P with 7.50s and an overdrive, 80 can be achieved once all the oils have warmed up, although it was hard to see the speedo as everything was shaking about so much. And yes the lanes do get strangely narrow

I know the TD has its shortfalls in the life expectancy department, but I think you should be able to manage a few more MPH than that. We had a 1987 TD Ninety County for the 140k miles, albeit with a replacement engine. We had it on 205 road bias tyres and I always felt it was a pretty responsive engine with a surprising amount of torque, and a reasonable tow truck. 80 MPH was manageable given enough level space, and no head wind and a pair of ear defenders. Country lanes were plenty of fun too. Fuel consumption suffered heavily when it was worked hard. I know the Tdi was a vast improvement and arrived not a moment too soon.

I have a mate who used Air Products gases for work. He's based in Rusper,so in the right area. I've no idea how much they charge, but I know he changed to them having got fed up with BOC prices. I think he has some arrangement that does not involve bottle rental.

Having made some ply shelving for the back of my 90 I found it got so wet (condensation & leaks ) over the winter that it all went horribly mouldy. I have since dried it all out and given it 2 coats of boat varnish. Let's see how we fare next winter

Mine turned up today too

You should try returning things to Britpart...

Excellent work Nige. There seems to be a permissions issue with that sub forum though. It won't let me view or download any of the thread attachments despite being logged in. Maybe you are already on this one

As Nige says ^^^ These boxes like to make noise for a hobby, but they'll take a lot of abuse and keep going. Unless yours is unbearably loud I'd leave it alone.