mickeyw

Whenever I have gone anywhere near the auto booths at Dartford in my 90 HT the jobsworths seem to spring out of nowhere An arguement ensues, I end up ££ worse off every time. I had the same thing when I used to go through in my old 88" rag top, the sarcastic banker suggested I cut some windows holes in the canvas, then I could go through as a car. The Severn Bridge has only ever charged me car rate As for the local tip, they normally come rushing out to open the barrier when they see me coming. I don't know any of them, and I wasn't charging at the gate either

Do we collectively know how the thieving scum are gaining entry to our trucks? It is as simple as poor door locks being played with? Or is there evidence window breakage involved? I think Defenders aren't tech enough yet for people to break into the house and pinch the keys. I'm just trying to think of other methods of protection. Hopefully an unusual approach may be more sucessful. I know we won't stop those that are sufficiently determined

Ordered a couple of weeks ago, but nothing received yet

Gutted for you Dave, that's certainly a good truck you had there.

I have not seen any conversion like you describe. I would check you can get 80l vertical toroidal tanks with someone like Tinley Tech. The big under boot floor ones are only designed for horizontal use. I can only imagine two vertical tanks would take up a lot of boot space. It may work out cheaper just to have one big cylinder in the boot, at the sacrifice of space of course I can fully sympathise with your lack of range issues. I have four tanks in my RRC totalling 100 litres. Gives for a reasonable range.

Even Dixon Bate stuff isn't cheap. I had a adjusting slider and pin/ball combo hitch removed from my truck while parked at work one day. I had always left it attached for many years without trouble. The removable bit now lives inside. Remember you need to keep such a heavy lump somewhere it can't 'get' you in the event of a prang. Fortunately I have a robust storage locker in the back.

On the fan cowl issue, the one from a 50th V8 fits perfectly My serp engine came from a Disco, the oil cooler pipes line up perfectly with the Turbo D rad I am using. Hoses - use bottom hose from donor vehicle, and header tank. Mods will be minor and pretty easy. Top hose can be cobbled from the serp top hose and your original with a joiner/piece of pipe and a couple of hose clips. PAS hoses are indeed different, but again, if you have the pipes from the donor car you should have enough bits to cobble together what you need.

Totally agree with Three Sheds and Zim ^^^^^

A bit more info following more experiments tonight. When driving I really can't decide whether the noise comes from forward or aft. I've not tried it with diff lock in, but diff lock definitely does disengage. Noise is somewhat increased when in low range? Does this indicate it stems from primary box? Forgot to mention earlier that all wheel bearings have been checked and spin freely.

Hi All, Your help is required please with transmission noise diagnosis, but first a little history... My truck is a V8 90 with 4 speed ZF auto, 1.41:1 LT230, and standard rover axles/diffs. I recently fitted a another LT230 (for a ratio change). I fitted a new cross drilled transfer gear and bearings in this. Bearing preloads were checked during assembly. Intermediate shaft was removed to facilitate the preload check, then refitted and checked again. The ZF had a new output shaft fitted with the longer splines to suit the cross drilled input gear. The bolt securing this was Loctited and torqued up as per the book. I also had the rear diff and shafts out to reseal the leaking diff to axle joint. After fitting I drove the Ninety for a week with no undue noises or anything odd. Then all of a sudden I have this noise occur, that as far as I can tell is road speed, not engine speed related. The noise is not easy to describe - something along the lines of a high pitch whirring is about the best I can come up with. It becomes evident after about 15 MPH, does not increase in volume but does increase in pitch. It is not the kind of noise that I'm inclined to ignore but is easily drowned out with some music First thoughts were 'have I forgotten to fill something with oil?' All oils have since been checked, including stuff that had not been touched (front diff & swivels & auto box), nothing was missing but the front diff oil looked a bit goopy so I changed that. Also checked there is nothing rubbing on the tyres, props or engine pulleys. All UJs have been recently serviced. I am at quite a loss as to what else to check really. My first suspicion was the new trf box, but everything looked healthy enough inside and rotated as it should. Sorry this has got a bit long, but has anybody got any ideas please??????

Must have been a 541tpart one. Sounds just like the experience I had fitting one of their 3.9 RRC systems. I even had to break out the grinder and welder to make it fit

I have argued with many people on this subject, and I really am not convinced that it's worth doing. I like the swan-neck device that holds the steering damper. I have changed the built in drop arm joint a few times in the 16 years I've owned my truck, normally because it's got full of muddy water and gone rusty, same as any other TRE can. I don't think it's as bad a job as people make it out to be, yes the drop arm doesn't always come of straight away, but I have a home made puller that does that job well. Compared with the fight I've had in the past to unscrew a TRE from the track rod, the drop arm joint isn't any worse a job IMO. I can see swapping the joint in-situ is bluddy awkward, so take it off and hold it in a vice every time. Clean off all the crud, wire brushing well, squirt WD40 around the circlip and leave for a few minutes. Remove circlip and all other loose parts, clean out the inside and knock out the pressed in seating with a punch. Clean again and reassemble, using a smear of grease around the seating to help it go in smoothly. I use a suitably sized socket and vice to ensure it goes in square. Then to fit the circlip I squeeze the whole together in the vice. I use a piece of tube to cover the threaded pin that is just longer that the pin and big enough diameter to press on the arm itself and not the lip that the gaiter hooks over. Another small socket to press on the end cover and slip the circlip into place. This may sound awkward, but with practice can be done with just one pair of hands . To make the job easy next time, a quick coat of paint over the circlip and end plate does wonders. With the Disco/RRC drop arm conversion I have seen various methods of fixing the damper to the drag link. Some as simple (and flimsy) as an exhaust clamp holding a bracket on, other more robust welded on affairs. I'm sure this could be done with 1/4" plate if you go down this route

IIRC Retroanaconda's Microcat is Feb 2009.

You need to have a look on Mr Retroanaconda's website for Microcat and Madcowz' site for Rave

Have a word with Jonathan Lane 44 (0)7974050570. He is more than conversant with producing LHD trucks to whatever spec you want. He also has past experience building and exporting Landrovers to Canada.

If it is a pipe approx 3mm dia bore that faces forward at the centre of the inlet manifold, between the carbs, it is indeed the vacuum advance pipe. This should be sucking air, but it should be connected to the distributor. Without this you have no vacuum timing advance and this will cause a distinct slugishness.

Wow! Lots of things there. Only real thing I know about Hystee disc brakes is that they are quite pricey for what they are. I would just make sure your brakes are in good order, you're only talking of running lightly loaded. I had parabolic springs on my 88" V8. I found them to give a very harsh ride. Others will tell you they offer a ride close to that of a coil sprung Ninety. They do give slightly improved articulation off road. The standard 2.25 carb, certainly on later models was a Zenith 36IV unit. The Weber 34ICH that is commonly found as a replacement is a touch smaller. There's nothing wrong with either carb if is in good condition, although the Zenith by virtue of it's size will give slightly more beans.

Shame there's no Aldi anywhere near me, just a Lidl. They never seem to have such useful stuff

I have the same one. One point of warning. It is marked left hand and right hand thread for the two different sizes. This seems to be the opposite way around the Landrover stuff, 200Tdi, Serp V8. Guess how I found out?

Windows XP mode in 7 should work. You will need to enable virtualisation on your 'puter before you can install XP mode, not all computers will have it enabled by default, the settings can be found in the BIOS. Once this far you'll need to download XP mode and follow the instructions.

Thanks to you all. I was already thinking towards something like Orange had done. It certainly looks the way to go to save constantly having to wash the fins after every day out. With so many recommemdations I might have to arrange a day out in Southampton

The time has come for me to look for a new radiator for my Ninety. The cooling fins have seen better days and I'm not sure quite how clogged it may be internally. Does flushing really do any good? I am using the turbo D type with integral oil cooler. Where is a good place to buy a new rad from that won't fail in service 5 minutes after I've fitted it? ****part rads are not an option, as I know three people that have recently had new ones from them either spring a water leak, or leak oil into water, and subsequently cause other damage, such as head gasket failures. I would rather not buy genuine, as the prices are a bit extreme to say the least. I have thought about getting my existing one re-cored but I don't know if it would work out any cheaper than a new genuine item On the re-coring thought, are there other designs of core that are less easy to clog with mud/wash out easier? Any ideas please???

Will be there too, eyes open.

Don't assume that you have a particular gear in your box just because of the transfer ratio being what it is, or that it came. You never know who's changed what is the past! Remove the transducer and prise out the gear with a small screwdriver, a very easy job with the box in the car; see what colour it is, count teeth etc, then make your calculated decision from there.

That's some impressive battery life for a Clarke/Sealey tool! Above your budget I'm afraid, I bought a Bosch GDS18V-HT last year. It has yet to stop impressing me each time I use it. IMO there was little point for me buying something that couldn't deal with tight/big stuff. LR wheel nuts are a walk in the park with this. Tractor wheel nuts make it work a little harder