mickeyw

He may have meant LR Fasteners

Perei branded lights here

Errr, and why can't you still do this? I used the drain cleaner on mine yesterday Will be waxoyling when the weather warms up a bit.

I just removed the green one. That worked about right with 265/75x16s (31.5" dia) Bigger tyres meant I need to change to the blue one.

Having fitted an auto box in my factory fitted Ninety V8, I've ended up with the exhaust pipe that crosses over from the drivers side running very, very close to the front of the gearbox sump. This is not good, as sometimes it will clonk the sump, and Mr MOT man will get the hump about that, not to mention that it will eventually wear a hole. I also worry about the heat transmitted into the gearbox oil. So, my first question is - how is the exhaust routed ahead of the Y piece on the 50th V8? Any pictures would be good. Microcat's diagram gives very little detail. Next, does the 50th use standard RRC/Disco 3.9 cast manifolds? I have 3.5 cast manifolds at the moment, but I have some 3.9 ones in the shed. Does the 50th use the larger bore pipe found on 3.9 RRC & Disco? Essentially I would like to know whether a 50th system will fit my truck. I know it has cats fitted, but I don't need them. They can't be too hard to replace with a bit of straight pipe. I would like to fit a system that is as off-the-shelf as possible. Yes a custom system like Nige's would be nice but I don't want to spend that much Double S exhausts said they could copy any existing pipe I provided, but that would mean taking my pipes to them, they're not exactly local. If I could say to them 'make me a 50th system but replace the cats with straight pipe' that would be ideal. It would be a good opportunity to upgrade to the size pipe a 3.9 should have IMO. Should also mention that I have the rectangular section cross member, not the round one. Before anyone starts flaming SS, I will add that I have had one of their 3.5 V8 systems for 16 years now, and have little to grumble about (except with the non-SS flanges they use). All helpful comments and pictures will be muchly appreciated.

The drive gear you need is the blue one FRC3310 with 20 teeth. I have just fitted one to mine and it reads spot on with 255/85s.

It would totally depend on the maintenance it's had. The pic I posted about was from a 175k miler. That said, when I bought my V8 Ninety @40k, its original 3.5 didn't look far different inside. V8s really do need their oil changes regularly. I think the book says every 6k miles, but I've always changed between 3-4k. A well looked after engine should look pretty clean aluminium colour inside, but real world ones in fair shape will have a browny/gold tint to the innards. When it starts to get dark brown/black and goopy it's a sure sign that major things need attention.

Ooooh, can we play trumps? This 3.9 a lot of problems beyond the obvious but I did get it running again. Not really worth the trouble though. I'd go find another one in better health next time.

That's plenty enough to make them very tight. I'd seek some replacement ones.

I would expect a similar fit to that of a wheel bearing onto a stub axle. Definitely not a press fit.

Are these by any chance the same thread as used on the TREs used with Sumo bars? Perhaps the manufacturers of them could help? Failing that, what about the 101 club? I assume that's what this is for.

My thoughts - If you have Railko bushes in your top swivel, (as seen in Series trucks and earlier 90/110 axles) you need to run oil, so it can splash lube the bush and pin. I reckon a small amount goes in the top and the tiny hole in the bottom of the bush may let some in/out. I can't see grease finding its way into the bush. If you lubed a Railko with grease during assembly the grease will get squeezed out in service, and the bush will go dry and wear faster. All the axles LR specified to use 'CV grease' featured taper roller bearings top and bottom. These can be lubed with grease prior to assembly, and enough grease will most likely stay in there during operation. The taper roller bearing design provides a void for the grease to be retained in. I daresay some extra may get splashed up there as the shafts spin round. CV joints probably self lube well with grease. UJs by virtue of their shape, would fling oil around better than a CV joint could. Grease does not fling in the way oil does. As already mentioned, if you have a slight leak, you can see when the oil has stopped running out My 90 has Railko bushed swivels, so I run them in oil, for the reasons I have given. I don't think the CV will mind too much as long as it has something kind of lubricant, and not nothing or muddy water.

As Danster spotted, the seller also has a 1983 Series III for sale. The details at the top of the page are identical for both trucks. If he is a newbie to ebay, as he claims, he may have made one of those newbie type mistakes and forgotten to change the details for his second listing. To me this looks like an innocent mistake, but who knows? We all had to start with zero feedback at one time, so you can't necessarily flame him for that. There's always the opportunity to ask him a question and see his response..... Ebay can be a good place to buy/sell lemons etc, we all know that, so as always, buyers should be aware.

[Anorak] Body looks correct for an E reg, push button doors, also the roof vents above the rear door only featured for a couple of years from E onwards. [/Anorak]

I used a reservoir from an air sprung RRC. Think it's about 10 litres. Given the rarity of these I would think you're better of lorry type from air scrap yard.

The leaks were so bad they wrote a book about them. See Defender water ingress manual

1.4:1 box went in behind the ZF and 3.9 last weekend, all pretty straight forward really. I had to change the ZF output gear (very, very easy) for one with the longer splines to suit the new cross-drilled input gear in the trf box. Now I'm loving the drive, it's so much more responsive . Also it actually gets into top on the country lanes, which is where I do most of my driving. T/C lockup happens about 46MPH now rather than 55MPH. 60 arrives with far less effort than before, and that's without giving it loads of welly. Trailer and motorway testing is yet to happen, but I think all will be well.

I have a brand new genuine parts V8 clutch kit sitting in my garage. I drive auto now AFAIK it should fit an R380, unless someone wants to correct me. Bluddy heavy so postage would be rather a lot I imagine. Forum relay anyone? I'm near Gatwick airport.

Surrey 4x4 autojumble (13th June this year) is usually a good one for getting sunburn/heatstroke etc

:hysterical: :hysterical: Yep, I know that problem

Normally it's a bit cold/wet for t-shirts at this gig.... Will probably go along to check out the qualiteee goods for sale.

Took over 3 months for my sister to get a V5 when she bought her Disco last year

In this situation I have in the past used a small cable tie to hold the remains of the clip to the clutch fork. Even some electrical tape can be made to do the job. Once the whole thing is assembled it doesn't need a clip anyway. However if you are intent on using proper parts, there's always the main stealer in Manor Royal You should only need one clip, they mostly break having become brittle with age. A new one should be rather more forgiving. If your garage can't put stuff together without breaking a new clip I would start charging them for it

Jeff Please post on here so we know how you get on with this project. I am in the process of MegaJolting my LPG 3.9. If I could find out enough about full MS and LPG injection I could be tempted to have a go at that

Richards. You won't have to worry about quality from them.