mickeyw

I've been looking at the Toyo Open Country MT, as my BFGs are getting pretty perished, and the Toyo looks like a sensibly priced alternative. One thing I discovered is that compared to a BFG MT of the same size, the Toyo is nearly 10KG heavier PER TYRE!!! This is from manufacturer's data.

My 110 CSW is shod with 255/85R16 BFG muds 7x16 on modular rims. Suspension is all standard, nothing rubs, and I still have an excellent turning circle. I believe running Wolf rims will result in the tyres rubbing on the radius arms if you don't wind the lock stops out a little.

A standard 3.5 Defender rad is a petty thin unit, with no oil integral oil cooling provision. However the Turbo D rad does have an oil cooler circuit built into the end. My serp 3.9 (ex 1995 Discovery) came with oil cooler pipes that line up with the aforementioned rad without any alterations. Other serp variants may not be like this! The only thing to be aware of is the couplings that screw into the rad come in 2 different thread types. The earlier type are as found on a vee belted V8, and have a steel flared pipe end to seal against. The later type are a parallel fit, with o-ring.

I'm glad you got things sorted out. That looks like a pretty scary place to break down 😮

Lol. I only looked quickly at the index page you linked to, but it seems they have the same problems we do on here, corrosion, leaks, electric issues. But I'm used to all these problems, so that face might be the deal breaker for me 😅 I think even the face of the Bollinger would be easier to live with.

What tyres have you had fitted? Are they the same as before? Insufficient pressure sounds a likely culprit, but I'd definitely check all axle locating bushes are in good order too.

Jeez that takes ugly to new levels 🤮 WTF indeed

I wonder if that's just your local branch Fridge. I agree that the Larrys are excellent torches, and fantastic value even at normal prices when compared with the LED Lenser range. I have big and little and the head torch, all living in various vehicles

From what I have read of other peoples' comments online, availability has been a big factor in supplier choice. They all seem to have lengthy waiting lists, and when you consider how many owners want a new chassis these days, it's not such a surprise. I think I also read somewhere that GKN were no longer supplying Joe Public direct, but only through distributors. I can understand them not wanting to be constantly on the phone to muppets that want to haggle with them. A similar situation exists with Adwest and LR steering boxes. Other manufacturers have popped up too, some not quite getting everything correct to begin with, but reports suggest this situation is improving. Shielder (in Ireland) and RCP (Replacement Chassis Parts) are two relatively new companies I am aware of, although the latter doesn't actually supply a full chassis.

The ones you have Ross are the discontinued Halfords Industrial range, which are far more substantial than their new Advanced range or even the old Advanced range. The drawer runners on the new range feel distinctly flimsy. I've looked (online only) at the SGS Engineering stuff, and while it looks good I've not heard any comparison with the Halfords boxes. I love my Industrial boxes. I can't see me wearing them out.

I bought my MT KM1s 2nd hand on rims, with white lettering facing out. My choice would have been the opposite way, but I couldn't be bothered to change them. That was 15 years ago and they still have 50% tread left😁 The lettering is raised white on one side, and raised outline only on the other. The choice is yours.

I used a 'Ring' branded solar charger. I can't remember the charge rating, but it was absolutely no use at all, and resulted in the battery being flatter than without it.

Well found. I looked yesterday and didn't see it. I have to say that I am not sold on the idea of this product. I get the idea that it reduces the throw, making it a little closer to that of a normal car, but I would expect (I haven't driven a vehicle with one fitted) it to require more effort to operate. The biggest improvement I made to my V8 110's gear shift was the addition of a vacuum servo on the clutch pedal. I don't really find the throw of the stick an issue.

Hmmm..... a clutch should be supplied balanced out of the box, and as long as your flywheel has the requisite locating dowels it should be running true when attached to that. As lo-fi asked, is the bite point a long way down in relation to pedal travel? If so, this can be adjusted on the master cylinder push rod to pedal connection. This shows to adjusting process. I wouldn't get too focused on the dimensions, but they are a starting point. The drawing is of a 300Tdi Defender pedal. If you have the early pedal type the dims may be bit different. Ultimately I would aim to achieve what functions best.

Looking good so far. I made something similar for my 90 years ago. Construction was 1mm steel frame, clad with 6mm MDF. I cut the guage holes in the MDF to clear the diameter of the bezel, so all gauges sat flush with the surface, in keeping with the main dash. I did the same for the radio and window switches. I primed the MDF, and glued a leatherette style vinyl material on to match the dash top. I'll see if I can find some photos tonight.

Something to bear in mind - the LT85 does not do fast gear changes. It's a pretty agricultural box with quite some throw on the lever. How long have you had this vehicle? Is this a problem that has occurred recently or are you new to the peculiarities of the LT85? I'd be looking at clutch pedal travel. Every time I find a shift a bit hard work I remind myself to push the pedal all the way to the floor. A deliberate and unhurried clutch pedal movement can give a pretty smooth lever move and take up of drive. If your clutch pedal isn't adjusted right it won't help matters. Homing in for a moment on your mention of having fitted a Slick shift - as far as I am aware they don't make one for the LT85. I remember asking Shabs Piercy if he planned to make an LT85 version when he first launched the product, and he answered to the negative. Is you box definitely this model?

That's a heck of of turnover of bikes and cars, despite your lengthy time on the roads. By contrast I'm almost a one brand driver: 1988 - 1989: 1980 Ford Fiesta 1100 (mk1) 1989 - 1994: 1972 Landrover 88" 2.25P 1994 - 2014: 1986 Landrover 90 V8 1995 - 2004: 1961 Landrover 88" soft top 2.25P, project car that became a V8 2004 - present: 1990 Range Rover Vogue SE, daily driver for a number of years, now awaiting revival. 2014 - present: Landrover 110 V8 CSW - work horse, weekender and off roader 2017 - present: 2002 Mercedes E220 CDI estate. Voluminous, family haulin' motorway munchin' all round great car, and by FAR the most economic motor I've ever owned 🤣

That's quite some book collection! A few heinous crimes on that there shelf 😮

Have you swapped the cap with the one from the other side? This would help establish whether the cap or a loose flange is the cause of this anomaly.

I love the discreet nature of this winch mount. You'd hardly know it was there.

Have a look here http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/10427/RRC8443-EXTRA-LONG-WOLF-XD-MIRROR-ARM.html I wouldn't like to guess the originals of the Britpart item, but would hope that a genuine LR item would be of a quality you would expect.

Good heavens! £50 being a bargain for that is the understatement of the year. Apart from being single phase, that looks like industrial grade equipment. That should serve you well for many years. Oh and welcome to the forum

I have noticed that aftermarket arms are much looser than original Britax ones that LR use. Also the Britax mirror heads are made of more robust (probably thicker) plastic. The Britax mirror glass itself is twice as thick too, which makes it more tree-resistant. Alas the cheap ones are cheap for a reason.

No money for Arfur Daley here Some good inspiration for repairs on Defendersource https://www.defendersource.com/forum/f48/building-lr-110-front-row-door-frames-pushbutton-doors-73740.html

Thread revival time Now I have an aged 110 CSW, and the other day one of my kids told me her window had fallen down when she tried to close it. Turns out the lift channel was completely fooked, and was hanging out of the bottom of the door, as the lower rail was also crumbled. Lengthy searches brought me to the same realisation, that these lift channels ain't nowhere to be found. Common internet 'advice' is to 'just chop down ones for the front doors'. Alas it's not quite so simple as that. I shall explain below. Comparing old crusty 2nd row channel (top) and a new front window version (bottom). Not quite the 'cut a bit off the end' solution that was being suggested. These two lovely shiny channels are spot welded together, so I drilled these out. And they're apart. Ever wonder why new plated parts go rusty sooner than you'd like? A quick zing with the angry grinder to shorten both parts, and we have this. I cleaned all the developing rust away and painted bare metal before assembly. A few dabs from the TIG, followed by some more paint, and I think this will do the job well. Now to deal with the rest of the rot 'n' grot.