mickeyw

It only needs something to hold it in place during assembly. The seal I bought had an adhesive layer with a peel-off backing on the face that met the heater box. I should think any double sided tape would do the job if yours has nothing on it, or maybe a contact adhesive such as Evostick.

Some years ago I had reason to have the headlights apart on my 1990 RRC, and performed some general cleaning up in that area. When looking at the bulbs I found they were 80/100w items, which I realise are not E approved or legal or anything like that. It goes to explain why I had always found them to be so much better than my Defender's headlights. I guess the Rangey's headlight switch must be made of sterner stuff than Defender ones as it has given no trouble due to the extra current being drawn. Anyhow, the addition of relays to the wiring is normally considered to be a worthwhile upgrade. I am not advocating the use of high wattage bulbs

At least these are practical money spent, rather than simply being shiny bling that others are offering. My only concern is how much torque can be transferred through the 3 pins of the tool used for the door pillar screws

I wonder when that was built, seeing as it's wearing BFG KM1 muds? Its proportions are reminiscent of a Mini Moke.

The electronic speedos can be reprogrammed to work with any size wheel you choose. A certain person on here (not me) has that all figured out.

Just checked you are in the UK before I say 'don't do this ^^^'

Welcome to our profanity filter

The 265 tyres generally come up around 31 - 31.5" diameter. You already know these don't fit well, so 33" is going to be a good bit worse. 255s are roughly 33" tall, I have a set on my 110, so I can tell you these ain't gonna fit in a Rangey wheel arch without surgery. You say you have a 1.4:1 t/box to go on there, so I assume the truck currently has a 1.22:2 fitted. This will have gearing that'll be horribly tall with 33s fitted. I've been there

Given the speed at which JLR is churning out new luxury models I see no excuse for Defender II taking this long to arrive. Oh except for a general lack of interest by JLR maybe 😉 #williteverhappen With so much focus from all marques for eco-ness, whatever that really is, hybrid electric witchcraft etc I struggle to see that an Defender replacement won't be radically different from what we know. Good luck to Projekt Grenadier

I'm sure I read somewhere that JLR had taken some legal move to quash this project. The article linked to is a few months old...

I'm doing a fair bit of welding out in the garage at the moment. Garage evening temps have been low (6 deg C last night), so I've had a fleece beanie hat on top, being as follicly challenged as I am. Normally I'd have a heater going, but when welding or plasma cutting I leave the big door open to let the fumes out. My problem is that a welding helmet or safety visor doesn't fit on top of the beanie securely. I also find that if I have to wear a hard hat in the cold weather my head gets super cold, so another reason to find something. I've looked up welding caps, and there's quite a garish array to choose from, but most seem very thin, and aimed at keeping the rays off one's head or neck. Would anyone care to recommend a cap that would offer a little insulation without being too thick to fit under a mask?

Never, no way...

I have a couple of power tools with dead NiMH batteries. I intend to rebuild the battery cases with 18650 Li-ion cells to equivalent voltages, and battery protection circuits. The latter prevent excess discharge, which is one thing that Li-ion doesn't like. There's a chap on YouTube who is successfully welding battery tabs with little more than a small car battery. https://youtu.be/tlm-C_fiGS8 I have a suitable charger from my father's collection of RC equipment. Another solution involves a bit of 3D printing, and creating an interface to adapt your existing tool to take a popular modern power pack from the likes of Makita or Bosch. Woodworking genius Matthias Wandel has a video on doing such things with Ryobi batteries https://youtu.be/NJx0dqtDNfE

From what I can see, the o-ring sealing face is clean and undamaged. I can see the thread damage looks pretty nasty, but unless the damage is actually preventing you fully tightening the union I am surprised it's leaking. Maybe you could try a new o-ring and see if that helps. As far as repair options go, I would think replacement is a better option.

Is this not a standard book procedure? If not, it still seems like very good sense to me.

Glad you've found an opportunity to do this James. The board sounds quite reasonably priced. I'm sure it'll last OK if well painted. The galved sides haven't fared so well either! Did it live by the sea once? I have ended up buying a new (to me) LM146. In fact it's 15 years old but been well looked after, and has sides, ramps etc, and the floor has been good enough to carry a car three times now, so can't be too bad. It even got used for piggy back duties the other weekend when I used them both at our local bonfire night. Now I need to get around to selling the old trailer.

Depending how keen you are, the lower part shouldn't be too difficult to make from a sheet of ally, assuming a '97 is not a steel skin. The cut out for the door handle could be the hardest bit. The top and vertical sections are separate parts, and I've not seen so many rot of there.

What a great photo!

The 4.2 now has an expensive 700 miles on it Yes, I am pleased and relieved I got the engine in and the truck is usable again. I've also welded up both front door bottoms, as they were pretty non-existent. I haven't dared remove the rear door trims yet - eek. The truck scraped through an MOT. Two advisories for chassis rot around the a frame cross member - I think he was quite lenient there, but that's gonna be some body off repair work before the next test.

They look like RRC electric window switches, but not situated in their normal environment.

Woohoo! Glad you liked it Nige. And thank you too. Now, what to choose for my prize.... locking Salisbury diff thing, errrr, guess probably not . Better have a browse...

Finding things, establishing a term or expression for a product or method is down to educating the market. I didn't know what a pegged diff was before you were making them. Like Pete says, the right tags on a web page will work wonders...oh and knowing how to educate the search engines helps too.

A contentious point Ross IMO. If one of us caught up with these thieves and dealt them some justice, there would be no shortage of budget to hunt us down and tell us the error of our ways :/

Gutted for you Ian. Have you spread the word on all the Facebook groups, such as Landywatch?

Maybe searches will respond better with tab-locker. Must be lots of searches for locker in this context.