mickeyw

Tab-Loc, as in your diff is fitted with a Tab-Loc system. You have a Tab-Loc'd diff. Fit your diff with Tab-Locs. I think the Xcess 4x4 Tab-Loc system has a good ring to it. I say system because you could apply this concept to any number of makes of diff, or other device you haven't yet realised an application for.

Are you going to use tyre 'soap' or a liquid lubricant? I bought some stuff, rather dubiously named 'Rim Ease' when I was fitting some rear tractor tyres. I found it dried out quicker than I could fit the tyre, so had to keep reapplying. Still a much better solution than washing up liquid. I've not yet tried the soap/paste bucket like most tyre shops use.

Nice find Steve. Did you bump into my fabrication during your research? Anchored to the tow car. https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/47119-tyre-changing-at-home/?do=findComment&comment=445941

Top job there I have been having similar ideas to attach to the front of the 110. As I was thinking of rather heavier objects, and mobility while under load, I was considering forward projecting swivel castors. And that's the nastiest farm bike you could find?

I think that guy also designed milk floats in the past.

Ditto ^^^ I've never had much luck adjusting them with a spring balance. Generally they end up too loose when done that way. (Now reminding myself that the 110's swivels need tightening up.)

I expect the struts simply aren't powerful enough to lift the weight of the wheel. Also I very much doubt the points of the wing and bonnet the brackets attach to are strong enough.

+1 ^^ TBH, I think so many folk are doing chassis swaps that I wonder if the manufacturers simply can't keep up with demand. I imagine it's easier for them dealing with businesses that make regular orders. That way they probably spend less time answering questions and arguing over prices.

I think in this day and age, and with browsers no longer requiring us to type "www", the dot com bit tells the reader that it's a website address. Therefore I vote we ought to keep that bit. Sorry I have no graphic contribution to make

What FF & Bowie said ^^^ I had a 1986 V8 90, converted from 3.5 to 3.9. Never had a problem at MOT time despite their computer thinking it was still a 3.5. My current 1986 V8 110, was 3.5 then 3.9 and now 4.2. I've not had to MOT since the latest engine change, but been through 2 tests as a 3.9 without problem. That's 3 different MOT stations too.

Welcome home

A hydraulic jack and a length of wood will work for spreading too. Just make sure the jack's pump is at the bottom, otherwise it'll be starved of oil and won't pump.

I don't think I'd buy a £36 brake caliper Like Ross said, reasonable quality (Mintex or Delphi) pads are not expensive.

Welcome Terry. First off - did you weld the new footwells in while the bulkhead was still attached to the old chassis? If not, this could easily be a source of error. Secondly, galvanising can distort a bulkhead if it isn't suitably braced at the outrigger mounting points. As for what to do about it, that is a hard one. You have a shiny new chassis, and a freshly galv'd bulkhead - but something is going to need some adjustment, and unless the door pillars can be jacked apart sufficient to fit, I would imagine the bulkhead being the likely candidate for modification/correction. I know this probably isn't what you want to hear, so hopefully someone more experienced with this operation will be along shortly to give an alternative take on the situation.

Test post for Nige

I always feel that having something kept out of sight as much as possible, and not so shiny to stand out is a good start for security. Of course you'll struggle with that latter concept with a brand new unit. My mother has always adopted this principle with her horse trailer, although she seems to have no difficulty making it look thoroughly neglected

Last summer we went camping with the 110. I have a 110Ah battery (Numax CXV31MF I think) as my only battery, and we left both our phones and two tablets charging overnight in the truck. No problems starting the next day. I think many of us have a tendency to overthink these things

Oh, I just noticed it has a winch. I'd love to see the batteries that will allow that to be used in anger

...And there was me thinking you couldn't get any more slab-sided than a Foers Ibex or a UMM Alter

And I can't see them being very long-lasting either. Long live the RV8 Oh, really??? PMSL

Shame it's scratched! Mine came with the plastic protective sheeting attached, but that was when Si was getting them made I see no reason to paint it. Mine is plain stainless and looks the part. I have a rubber mat sitting on top to reduce noise and rattles (not so many with a V8 ?), and that folds up with the pedal lock. I can't see paint staying on a floor panel for long!

I have seen that method of tipping before. First time was on a foreign D130 station wagon I saw in the car park at Newbury. Apparently it is a commercially available kit on the continent. If this chap made his own, then fair play - it looks very good.

Another happy owner here. I used to either have a constantly jammed handbrake, or one that didn't work with the early type drum handbrake. It was generally the expander that got stuck after a heavy off roading session through deep mud. Consequently I was always having the drum off and the expander apart for a clean. The X brake may not be perfect - I did sometimes find a degree of light rubbing, as if the disk was warped. I should point out that fitting the disk to a less than perfectly clean drive flange can produce this condition, so correct fitting is important. However, it always worked when required, and never jammed on me. Those latter points makes it far superior to the standard fitment, IN AN OFF ROAD APPLICATION. I pointed out to someone else recently that IMO if you don't off road, this device is not really necessary. A correctly maintained drum brake works very well, even with big trailers attached. If your handbrake is giving trouble and you only drive on the roads, just correct the problem to standard spec, and it'll work fine.

That's interesting Jeremy. I wasn't aware BOC were making an effort in this direction. Are they a recent arrival? The Hobbyweld bottles are 137 bar, which as you say, is about half the Ryval pressures. What was killing me pricewise was the bottle rental when a BOC size Y bottle was lasting me 2-3 years! To begin with Ryval looks like a better deal, until you take the delivery cost into account. I can't see an option to collect from a local depot, which I can for my local Hobbyweld outlet.

Correct. I've been using their argon co2 mix for MIG for some years now. You pay a deposit on a bottle, then a price for the gas/refill. It's no different to how you get propane bottles really. They have distribution point around the country, but you can order online and state which outlet you want to collect from, or they will deliver for a price. http://www.adamsgas.co.uk/product-category/hobby-welding-gas/