mickeyw

Here we all are, well aware that it's pretty easy to break into a Defender. However it seems that even the Jeep Wrangler, which probably isn't much harder to enter, is still not safe despite having more complex security systems. http://www.zdnet.com/article/biker-group-charged-with-hacking-hundreds-of-jeeps-in-crime-spree/

Arjan, my early 110's roof also has steel gutters. I didn't think that part was any different from the Series type. I know later Defender roofs are constructed a bit differently, but they must still have a steel gutter for rigidity??? Regarding the wipers, why not remove the central windscreen bar? Of course would need a single piece of glass cut to fit, but you could then keep the Defender wiper arms. You may need to use the shorter series wiper blades. I have not proven this concept but the logic seems good in my mind.

waiting for @landroversforever to pop his head up

Wow, somehow I missed this thread. Number one for me is finish putting the 4.2 together, and get it in the 110 which has been engineless and off the road for far too long. That'll do for now. This year has been difficult with a significant bereavement in the family, so having the LR back on the road will provide some small sense of normality.

Lots of cars in the background. Looks like a car dealer. edit. Just looked at the ad. Clearly a dealer. It strikes me as overly shiny, yet no pics of the engine bay or underneath/ chassis condition. Call me suspicious, but I'd be wary of it being a polished turd - unfortunately there are too many of those on the bay. If you're serious about it, ask for more photos and give it a thorough look over before you decide to buy.

Entering your chassis number here comes back with this

Sounds like you're insured with Dick Turpin and Associates. With a hike that that you may as well have stumped up the £3k repair yourself and not claimed in the first place, grrr! My experience with classic policies is that the vehicle covered can't be your only transport. Some companies don't allow commuting on classic policies. Limiting the mileage certainly helps. Our cars (we have 3 between the two of us) are all on about a 4k year allowance each, and we don't normally manage that much. Postcode is certainly a major factor - there's not a lot you can do about that. I can't see that insuring in another name at the same address will help.

Unfortunately with the demise of so many Boge levelling units, and owners fitting heavier springs to compensate, I doubt there are too many RRCs that still have their magic carpets.

Well done for persevering. I have yet to drive an air sprung RRC, but one day......maybe on the one-ten even

Yes, crammed in to the point of it being difficult to move A tip I picked up from ingenious woodworker and engineer Matthias Wandel (find him on Youtube) is to have as much equipment as possible on wheels. that way it can be nested away when not in use, while the items you want to use can be moved into a usable position. Obviously this won't work for everything; like my lathe, mill and #1 bench are far to big and heavy. My supplementary benches are currently Workmates with large boards clamped to them. They can be dragged about, but this often leads to the contents rolling or rattling off in the process. My longer term plan is to make a couple of mid-sized mobile benches, maybe with fold down extensions too. I shall try to make these matching heights so they can be pushed together for bigger projects.

It just needs to be smaller than the pipe being beaded. I don't think I needed to reduce it - the screw head diameter happened to be just right

All that item is is the diodes and resistors nicely packaged. I made my own with a bit of veroboard and through hole components. I based on the schematic on their installation page https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/TachAdapter

Could it have been these guys http://www.ppcages.com/ ? It's been a few years since I've been to a LR show, but they were always there.

Oh dear. I had forgotten about this thread. Over two years have passed, and a little progress has been made. The insulation is pretty much done. I've had to replace the roller door tube motor, as that failed and had no manual overide. That made things a bit tricky getting gear in and out through the side door for a while. I also replaced the timber cladding that was trapped behind the roller box. I actually managed to fit the RRC inside for quite a few months before it was evicted so I could work on other jobs. It just fits under the roller door. Last summer I finally completed the 10mm2 SWA supply from the house to the garage, so that means the Colchester lathe is finally operational again, and no more running an extension cable from the house when I want to weld. The cable had been buried for at least a year but it took far too long to get it connected up at both ends. I now have a CU with separate circuits for the phase converter, the sockets, the lights, and eventually I'll add a 16A socket for the welder. The floor still isn't fully painted as I just have too much of it covered. The Bridgeport is still at my parents' house. I need to clear enough space for that first. Currently I have V8 parts everywhere while I rebuild the 110's engine - an unplanned and unwelcome job at this particular moment. Other equipment gained include a free vintage vertical bandsaw that needs a little TLC. Also I bought a small media blasting cabinet to help clean up certain engine parts. I'm running crushed walnut shells - they're great for cleaning carbon deposits without damaging the aluminium components.

I just noticed that I hadn't updated this thread. I actually fixed this problem some months ago. It turned out the post-cat O2 sensor was toast. After dabbling with a cheap replacement from Euro Car parts that didn't work out of the box (no the box wasn't blue ) I ended up with a Bosch item that looked identical to the original and worked perfectly. I then reset the logged faults using the reader and phone app. So, £5 for a code reader, £70 odd for the sensor (massively discounted as they had sold me a dud to begin with) and I'm all sorted. I also purchased the paid for version of phone app (only a couple of quid) as I believe it's worth recognising the work of the developers of a good product that has saved me time and money. Link to the app here in case anyone else is interested https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/store/p/car-scanner-pro/9nblggh5rv45

Looks like a tidy motor, and I don't doubt it's a lovely drive. When you're busy changing oils, change the coolant too. Coolant maintenance is just as important as oil changes, mostly for corrosion prevention, which in turn will enable better cooling.

Mel, waffle material is not something I would have thought of. Sounds like it has worked well for you. Do you recall what it ended up costing you? I have a set of fairly thin waffles, but at the price I paid for those I can see covering a 12' x 6'6" deck getting pretty costly.

I created a 'fat' brake pedal by welding a piece of metal either side of the original Defender brake pedal, sufficient to keep a standard RRC or Disco auto pedal rubber in place. This worked perfectly with the X pedal lock. I noticed a while back that the dead pedal on my RRC is quite bent, presumably from someone pushing against it. I never bothered straightening it. I guess it can't be that stronger an assembly.

Sounds like an adventure alright...and a fairly short trip by your standards. Buying from ebay, something that's falling apart and in another country. For most people this would bear the hallmarks of a drunken night in with the computer. Pretty sure you aren't most people though Arjan.

Agreed the crank seal from Turners looks pricey, but I'd have complete confidence in anything purchased from them. As for the clutch, I see no reason for you to need a HD unit. As others have said your 2.5 N/A is not going to destroy a good quality standard item. Even if you towed big trailers the engine just doesn't have the beans to kill a clutch. The quality of the product is far more important than being HD! And the £20 saved buys a large chunk of the seal

Indeed. I hadn't appreciated that this was a non-turbo version of the engine.

So you have numpty spanner wielders. What about the drivers? Like Fridge says, too much power could be a bad thing in the wrong hands. It sounds like your trucks are pretty heavy old buses, but an engine with 'just enough' power (300 Tdi) may be the ticket. Transmissions may last longer too... Yes I know they're an old design, but they're simple and I believe pretty reliable. If you bought manufactured engines from Turners you are as good as getting new engines, that hopefully will provide several year's life. Conversion costs will be minimal too. Failing that, as others have said, use what is locally popular in other vehicles. I'm a through and through Landrover fan - I've never driven a Toyota LC, but I can't say I've ever heard anyone else say the six pot 4.2 was gutless!

As Snagger said ^^^ Some years ago I had a tyre shop decline to look at my RRC's tracking. They made some excuse like 'we can't do Landrovers'. I suspected this might be because they were worried the rod ends being stuck solid, so I mentioned that all the rod ends were new (which was why I wanted the tracking checked) and would move freely. With this new information they had a sudden change of heart and jumped on the job. I can understand their concern, having spent a great deal of time myself trying to remove old joints prior to replacement.

Crikey - three years have passed, and I've still not re-decked the trailer. I've not needed to use it to transport vehicles, but there are many holes in the floor and sides that let things like aggregate fall through. I don't think I'd dare carry more than one bulk bag in its current condition. The ply got hijacked and used for something else - in fact some of it was used for a smaller trailer, and actually some of that has rotted out already. I can't remember what we coated that with, but it was some kind of outdoor wood preservative, and it has not protected the edges at all well. I think the old floor on my Ifor was decent birch ply (£50+ per sheet), as opposed to lesser WPB, which no doubt was how it came to last so much longer. Unfortunately I suspect the pukka £££ phenolic coated board is going to be hard to beat. The Ifor is now in desperate need of a complete overhaul. It looks distinctly scruffy, rather like those tatty old cars that have 'pull me' written all over them. I don't use it much, mainly local trips, so the cost is hard to justify...never mind finding time work on it.

235/85x16 is well within the scope of a 7J16. BFGoodrich recommend a rim width of 6" - 7" for a 235/85/R16 all-terrain tyre. I run 255/85x16 on 7J16 rims and they're fine.