mickeyw

Report back with pictures please 😁 I had my locks apart years ago because the handle return springs were broken. We drilled out the spot welds holding the casing together and reassembled with small machine screws and nuts. My dad being a clever old school engineer made up a pair of new springs. These are skills rarely found today. Wish I'd taken pictures...

I have these latches on my 1986 110. When the inner release handle fails to open the door it normally needs the pull rod adjusted a little. The cams that operate the latch tend to wear quite a bit over time. Adjustment is a door trim off job. A previous owner of mine added a nylon cable tie around the peg the cam runs against (increases its diameter), which has made quite a good workaround. Unfortunately these latches have been NLA for years, so it really is a matter of fettling what you have, and I definitely recommend this. I much prefer these latches despite their peculiar workings which are more of a pain on the passenger door. They are less inclined to freeze up in winter, plus they don't stick out to catch trees like the push button ones do when playing in the woods. There are a few parts manuals that show the general assembly of linkages in the door cavity - I'll see if I can find one. Edit: That was easier than I was expecting. Have a look here. https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-body-chassis/doors/front-door-latch-mechanism-to-(v)-aa270226_52672

This is something I always planned to do. When I re-fitted our utility room I added a hot water take off point for this exact purpose. Somehow I've yet to try it...

On a LWB station wagons I've seen oil tanks under the driver's seat. @CwazyWabbit's 110 has the tank under the rear wing, where the exhaust box is but opposite side of the truck. This does require a lot of hose distance, which in turn adds cooling capacity 🙂

Watching with interest as I too have such a beast complete with PTO pump. I've been long harboring a plan for a full hydro setup that can run a winch plus external implements. Just the thing to do with a V8 LR 😎 Thoughts - the H14 is insanely heavy vs the Goodwinch TDS that's currently fitted to my 110, but let's not allow that to blow the vapour sideways. Difficulties - my winch sits at a top of the bumper height, rather than the normal bottom of bumper position, and this obstructs the motor drive shaft. The standard drive motor setup is designed to fit in a 4 cyl engine bay inside the N/S chassis leg. There are parts of the V8 engine fighting for the same piece of real estate. I believe your 109's engine sits rather more rearward than the Defender position, plus the recessed series front panel probably makes it easier for the motor placement. I like your crank driven with dog clutch plan. I've seen this on numerous challenge trucks and it seems to work well but does need quite a bit of room. Don't rule out belt driven pumps. Flowfit sell PTO setups for Transits that use a serp belt from the front of the engine, although I'm not sure how much grunt is needed to run a tipper body compared with a winch. Also seen Red winches that are run from a belt driven PTO.

That's the thing with people like Stephen mentions. They don't need to publicise their work when they have a waiting list, but unless you're in the right circles, you don't get to hear about them. I'm sure that after talking to enough people you'll find the right person for the job Nick.

Kingsley seem to be turning out some very expensively remanufactured and 'upgraded' RRCs based on what I've seen for sale at eye watering prices. Can't comment on the quality, but if they're good a body repair is going be a mighty spendy experience.

The only diff failures I've ever had were also caused by the crownwheel bolts coming loose and shearing. Your diff looks like it's been using too much of that special dry lube 😲

That looks very smart HOG 👍 For some folk shopping around for alternative ideas or materials means projects can happen sooner. Available budget is a big factor in these decisions.

I keep a dustpan and brush in the back of my 110. It does an ok job on dry matter.

Well, every day is still a school day! This is the first I've ever heard of such a tool. Something to go on the Xmas present list me thinks. The promo video on the Tube is amusing

Spotted at the GDSF yesterday.

Simon, Ralph, a useful bit of info there, thanks. Having fine tuned such a relay for the LED equipped car, will it still function correctly with trailers that have either filament or LED lighting? I have multiple trailers and am considering replacing the aged lights on one of them with LED units.

Hasn't Ross got something like this? @landroversforever

Does anyone have experience of Keith Michaels insurance?

You can't break stuff when you don't use it

Calling on distant memories here - the plain pulleys are steel, whereas the ribbed ones are plastic. If you have a A/C compressor the pulley runs against the back of the belt, therefore a flat faced pulley. If a non-A/C arrangement the pulley runs on the ribbed side of the belt, therefore a ribbed pulley. This is at least true for 3.9 serpentine engines a la Disco/RRC. I have not looked at a P38 engine bay.

Having been with and advocated the NFU for over 25 years I am dismayed to find this year's renewal has doubled in price to cover my 110. I have a multi car policy with them covering my 20 year old Merc estate as well as the 110. The Merc cover has actually dropped in price, despite having my 81 YO mother on there. The 110 (4.2 V8 CSW with winch and big tyres) has jumped from £350 odd to £626 for myself and SWMBO. Policy total has gone from £619.54 to £907.28. This is for fully comp cover SD&P plus business use, and a 4000 miles per year limit on both vehicles. There have been no changes to drivers' clean records, all is exactly as per last year. I questioned whether there had been an error but was given some BS reply 'The underwriters came back to say both vehicles are in line/below the current technical rates and the change rate amounts are within the 20%cap and therefore the renewal price is correct.' I followed on by questioning the 20% cap part as even the whole policy cost has gone up by 46%! Maybe I'm misunderstanding things... I await their reply. So now I've been looking at alternatives. Heritage offered good prices for comparable cover, but I am unsure whether to go with their Classic policy for the LR or the mod 4x4. I explained that I use the vehicle off road at play days, but they seemed unconcerned which cover I chose, which worries me considering there's quite a price difference. More phoning to do, but I'm a bit peeved with the NFU's response

I've replaced a couple of those tensioner bearings, but not ones with plastic pulleys. I don't recall bearing removal being a problem, just use common sense and care. Maybe you can replace yours with an earlier (think mine is steel) pulley?

Hmmm... the craftsmanship looks excellent. Alas not all works of art are practical or beautiful, but they do tend to be on the expensive side.

HOG I think in the circumstances you haven't done too bad. Plenty of us are still seeking that elusive round tuit, even without health complications. I've just prices up new scaffold boards at £360, £75 of which is delivery. I need to find somewhere local I can pick up from as even my V8 won't use £75 worth of fuel for that job. I also need to check the position of the floor supports, in the hope I can use a 6' and 8' board to make up the length, and alternate which end gets the shorter board. I'll investigate fence rails. C69501B measures 1965mm x 1220mm x 18mm and £175 each from GT Towing. I would need 3 of these plus a C695011B which is a half board at £125. Total £650 plus collection costs. Aluminium for an LM126 is listed at £478.80, so a 4 ft longer version will be getting on for a similar cost to the Phenolic ply, and I'd still need to buy the timber supports. https://gttowing.co.uk/online-shop/lt-and-lm-ply-coated-panels-and-flooring/

Now it is the turn of my LM146 to need a new floor. The boards have all crumbled around the fixing screws and now resemble Pringles. I added some extra self-drilling screws last year, but the original deck is too far gone to hold any kind of fixing. Slight side note - several of the self drilling screws I used to re-deck our hay trailer have snapped after a couple of years. @Retroanacondahow has your trailer faired with these screws? 18mm phenolic coated anti slip birch ply is now £152 a sheet! By the time I have 4 of those delivered + VAT etc I'm looking at close to £800 😮 I had it in mind to use scaffold boards instead, but only found them up to 13' long so far. I'd prefer to have boards the full length of the deck.

Exactly this ^^^

Strange, as the shelf label shows their Ultimate Speed brand. I can't see anything about the charging rate.

Exactly as Fridge has said. The payback time of an LPG system is only worthwhile if you either do a lot of miles each year, or plan to keep the vehicle for a long time. I ran LPG for around 20 years in 2 of my own Rover V8 powered daily driven vehicles. These were both systems I installed, so cost less than if I had a garage install them. I forget how many miles I calculated the payback time was, but I know I saved a lot of money during my ownership. These days in the UK LPG has become hard to find, and I no longer run the V8 as a daily car, so I removed the LPG from my 110 to reclaim some interior space.