mickeyw

Despite sitting lower than when empty, is it actually too low? I think I'd be looking forward to the softer ride afforded by carrying a bit of weight. I recall the TIC parabolics I had on my 88" were quite spine-jarring.

Not got as far as a test yet, but I found a little garage time this evening and knocked up a bung for experimenting purposes The larger push fit connectors are for 10mm nylon hose (8mm ID) for oil flow, one pick up tube to just shy of the bottom of the oil can and another for delivery. The smaller connector is for 3mm pipe to inject air. Fitted into a standard 5l plastic oil can. Removed the wad inside the cap and made a hole to clear the connectors with a step drill. The shoulder on the bung is about the same thickness as the wad, so thread full engagement is maintained. The cap has 2.5 turns of thread. I shall pressurise an empty can first to see how much pressure this setup can withstand before risking it going all Exxon Valdez. SimonR once surprised us with how much pressure a 2 litre fizzy pop bottle can take, and while I don't expect this to take anywhere near that, these cans do take a fair bit of rough handling without rupturing. I'll video the tests for you. Can't promise it'll be tomorrow though.

I'm noticing this bit "Once the power reaches the battery protection low-level setting, it automatically stops cooling" Our compressor fridge box is the same, and the battery protection voltage seems to be set so that as soon as the engine is off and the battery stops receiving charge the fridge powers off. I have not found a way the adjust this threshold, making it impossible to just run it off a freestanding leisure battery.

Can we not download these off your website Nige?

Holy thread revivals! I had long forgotten about this escapade. In fact I think it's been a very long time since most of the members that helped me out have even been on the forum. As for the homemade puller I'm afraid I do not know of its whereabouts. I've looked in the regular place for keeping made up tools and equipment and it is not leaping out at me. Given the dimensions of the material it's quite possible it got chopped up for other purposes. Sorry I can't help you on that front. Judging from my photos the flatter pieces are 25x8mm or maybe 10mm thick mild steel, and the fat bits 20x25mm - all odds and sods that I like to rescue from a mate's scrap bin. Bolts are probably M10. There's nothing complicated about it. The puller yoke and legs are part of a Clarke hydraulic puller kit.

I have a couple of similar barrel pumps from when I used to buy oil in 25l cans. Nowadays it seems cheaper to buy engine and gear oil in 5l cans. I have wondered how much air pressure it would take to push EP90 up a say 10mm ID delivery hose. I am thinking about bolting an air fitting and delivery hose through the plastic cap of a 5l can. It'll either work or be as messy as Wax-oyling a cat.

I'm not aware of any, but Factory seem to be continually adding to their services so maybe it will pop up on there at some point. I'm lucky to have a local plating company (YB Plating at Gatwick) but their minimum order fee is £95, so getting small personal jobs done is not cheap.

Thanks, very interesting. The reduction in effort would suggest a different bore size.

@FridgeFreezer as I know you have pretty balanced views of things, could you please explain how the LOF cylinder is any different/better to a standard item, and why you are so happy with it, say compared with a generic aftermarket slave cylinder? I'm genuinely curious.

I baulked at buying BFGs this time. I don't do enough miles to wear them out. My last set KM1s were 50% worn but perished to MOT fail point. The new ones are Toyo open country MTs in 255/85x16 flavour. They were 1/3 less £ than BFGs and are perfectly ok and no noisier than before.

Alas Buffalo board has always been eye wateringly priced. I've not looked in recent times - trailer flooring is a job I am trying to put off as long as possible. I did give a thought to using scaffold boards as someone suggested they might be a cheaper option.

Arjan, just considering your location, bear in mind that Santana used the LT85 in their own 6 cylinder 3500DL models. Therefore there is always a chance that you might come across one of those.

@Arjanyou may recall that @Retroanacondawas playing with a Mazda + LT85 combination a while back. Maybe he can share some useful info.

I am pretty sure the foam is the same for all models, as is the gaiter itself. The opening in the tunnel is further forward on the LT85 vs LT77 but the same size.

It is a simple swap over. There are however V8-specific brackets for the hi/low/diff lock lever and possibly handbrake lever that you will need to swap over too. The 1.192:1 was intended to give better fuel consumption on the standard 205R16 tyres, but I don't know many folk that run them these days. My V8 90 managed OK on 7.50R16s but when I went auto and 255/85R16s I had to change to a 1.41:1 to achieve gear shifts in the right place.

A radio install is a very basic thing from a wiring POV. You need permanent live, ign live and a ground. Even the early models will have feeds for all this tucked in behind the clock and cigarette lighter socket inthe middle of the dash, so you should be able to tap into those. A later '95 model may have a bespoke socket in it's loom for all this, I don't know. Like you I mostly play music from my phone. I have a (fairly old now) single dDIN Pioneer radio/CD/USB head unit that also does bluetooth. My phone uses Android Auto and Spotify to send music over BT to the car. Here's a pic borrowed from the web that shows how my head unit is installed. This mount is a standard LR part.

I've not been through all your other posts to see what your vehicle and engine configuration is, but I am wondering why the need for big brakes. I have always found correctly maintained standard LR brakes to be perfectly acceptable, unless perhaps you have a high powered engine and high speed rated tyres to suit. How have you approached the companies you mention? Unless you are talking to a handling/performance specialist that has done some homework, you're likely dealing with box pushers that don't have access to the details you're asking for. If you've gone direct to the manufacturer's tech sales it's possible they don't want to deal with private individuals. It sounds like Luke has taken the time to work out what's what, and what works for a certain application. He is after all looking to sell to us private individuals, and will be pricing his offerings to take product development time and sales advice into account.

I've just treated myself to the M12 3/8 extended ratchet. I am somewhat taken aback by the weight of it. With the compact 2Ah battery it comes in at 1.4Kg, and is noticeably unbalanced towards the anvil end. It's a big chunk of metal of course. Data on all this product is rather lacking, and the manuals suggest that the standard reach weighs the same, which seems a tad unlikely to me. I've not actually used it much yet, but I'm trying to imagine using it at arm's reach in some awkward position. How do you feel about it in this respect @Ed Poore?

Welcome Ozzie, What the others have said.... and intro posts are always better with photos

I think this thread needs a photo of your setup @CwazyWabbit

The original series cooling system (if that is what you have) has an overflow bottle fixed to the inner wing, rather than a pressurised header tank. The events you describe above are correct for this type of system. You don't want to completely fill your radiator, just make sure the cooling matrix is covered. The space left at the top is for expansion - too little space and the overflow bottle catches the excess. It's a one-way flow. It is possible to change to a pressurised header tank if you obtain something off a newer vehicle. On my V8 engined 88" I used a standard series 3 rad and connected the overflow to an early Range Rover brass header tank. With this arrangement you swap the original radiator cap for a blanking cap. Pictures here c/o Google images.

Crikey. That looks like a reasons to sell it list

I've not seen that colour on a Defender before, but I rather like it.

Stephen I'm afraid theres's no built thread by me, but many others have done so here https://forum.v1engineering.com/. The first thing you need is a 3D printer, is that's not too much tech for you . I've printed and assembled the hardware, and I've bought parts to wire it up, but that's as far as it's progressed for the moment. The computery bit require some learning. So many projects on the go 🙄

I've been slowly building an MPCNC that I plan to use as a plasma table. Initially I've gone for a 500mm sq working area, but it would be very easy to scale up. Time will tell if plastic parts and plasma are a good combination, but others have been successful. For first assembly it's mounted on an MDF board, but would be on a box section steel frame eventually. This could then be placed on whatever frame/trestles are available, so not too hard to store on its side.