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muddy_muppet

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  1. Me either, until I was talking to a Peugeot guy, who said they use a sealant on them, and got me some Loctite AJ66! Got me thinking then, as these don't have any sealant lines around the waterways etc, like most composite gaskets do? Is there actually a need for it? Obviously not, but I thought I'd ask. Thanks Les MM
  2. Just after some assistance/advice on the new style multi-layer gaskets. Having obtained a nice shiny composite head gasket for the shed, (LVB500220) Is a layer of sealer required prior to fitting? (well on Peugeots they do, but that's French Poo for you)
  3. Is there any reason why you couldn't use a T piece on it's side? That way you just have one brake pipe to put a 90 degree bend in. Which you could make quite tight. Poor diagram I know! V V I L_>>> I V V EDIT: ok so it took me sooo long to do the diag, everybody else got there first!
  4. Make sure you notify the insurance company too. Covers you, in the event of a further dispute. Had a similar problem with shoddy repairs from the ins. co. supposed "specialised repairer" Refused to accept vehicle until repairs were of satisfactory quality. Then drove off in their loan car! Spoke to ins. co. who were most apologetic, and promised me they'd address the situation. They rang back 10mins later, stating, they'd spoken to repairer, if I wasn't satisfied after this attempt they would send in an engineer, who would have authorisation to move the vehicle to another repairer, and provide like for like vehicle replacement. 24 hours later, repairs were rectified, including respraying the complete rear quarter panel. Spot on 2nd time! Only wish it'd been like that first!
  5. Don't remember there being a Halfords opposite? (there again I was looking for tyres) It's not their old place, on the main road, with the blue frontage. (Possibly an old petrol station forecourt)? (The one pictured in the attachment). This place was further up, heading out of Leek, on the right hand side, a tin-shed basically about here on Streetmap
  6. Last time I went there, it was at the rear of the car/import sales forecourt (blink and you'll miss it). They were using a warehouse directly behind the forecourt to store the tyres.
  7. If it's a TD4, I think one of the issues, is the valve mechanism causing an obstruction to the air-flow. A chap on the MG forums used to make a bypass part for the MG ZT with the TD4 engine in. I'd assume it was the same type of bypass housing for the Freebie. If it's the older 2.0TD I seem to remember it just having a bolt on metal pipe to the inlet manifold, which you could cut up a coke can, and make a suitable plate/gasket to seal the hole off.
  8. Early Rover 200's had a manual valve in the heater circuit, operated by the heater control cable. You could always use a manual version. Or jjb10011 (Mini heater valve)
  9. Do you need main beam on for those spots to work?
  10. Used these guys: remotekey.co.uk cracking service.
  11. Another thought for you: Excess oil that's settled in the crankcase breather, being drawn into the manifold just at that point?
  12. Do you tend to get it about 50-60mph, when slowing down, but especially if you hit a bump? Could be other things, but 2 that come to mind are worn track-rod ends, and adjust play in the steering box.
  13. I've heard that certain engines are having problems with loose camshaft caps. Not within LRs but the Ford versions of said engine.
  14. You can use a standard D1 200tDi prop (plenty about 2nd hand + a set of u/j's).
  15. Yes the confusion is easy.... Diesel manual, petrol manual & Petrol automatic have one propshaft (FTC4140) Diesel Auto has a different prop. (TVB000130) So diesel auto doesn't fit anything else. (part numbers correct at time of going to press 10/06)
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