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MOJO90

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  1. Thanks to all for your help. I will set the nut between 70 - 120 and align split pin and hope all will be OK
  2. Thanks for the help. Steve - what is the torque pre-load metre? I only have a standard torque wrench (i.e. set required torque and it slips when reached. I have replaced the seal and the drive flange not just the seal - so my concern is if the new drive flange will require the pinion pre-load to be set. Although if it does I don't know how to and to be honest I did not check it before I removed the old seal so i don't know if it was correct before. There has never been any problems or 'noises' from the rear of the truck so I guess it must have been set OK
  3. I have read Les' article on rear diff seal replacement and searched but can't find the answer I need. I have 1984 '90' with a rover rear axle (at least I think it is - it's same as the front axle)with castellated nut and split pin. I replaced the seal following Les' artcle but the drive flange was grooved so would not have stopped leaking so I also replaced the drive flange. Les's article says "torque up the drive flange nut and fit split pin" but I can't find what torque to use anywhere (even in LR workshop manual). Also reading threads on here there are comments about pinion pre-load. If I have only replaced the seal and the drive flange do I need to 'mess' with the pinion pre-load ('cause if I do I haven't a clue). What torque should I use on the nut and if the split pin hole does not line up do you tighten up or slacken off to the nearest hole? I note from threads that 'Hybrid' is a diff expert so hopefully he (or other expert) can help me out? Thanks, Graham.
  4. This should be one of those simple jobs but as usual... Standard 90 rear suspension with standard shocks - replacing lower bushes with new standard rubber ones. Trouble is I can't compress the rubber enough to get the lower nut on the thread. Compressing the springs or jacking up suspension won't work as it just pushes the shock piston into the body - no help to compress bushes. Problem is that a past owner has welded a washer on the lower mount due to wear but that means the shock thread is no long enough to go through bushes and mount with enough thread left to fit the nut. Any ideas how I can compress the rubber bushes to expose enough thread to screw nut on - even a couple of threads will be enough to get it started. Cheers, Graham
  5. Not sure if this is the right forum so mods please move if not. Local council (Bolton, Lancs) newspaper had article about a countryside forum. They are asking local people to get involved in having their say on use of the countryside around Bolton & Bury (lots of it but little or no green lanes)- they want all interest groups including 'off-roading'. I am posting this in the hope that someone from the local area may be able to get invloved and maybe GLASS? As I have not yet been off-road in my truck since buying it and re-building it I don't really feel knowledgeable enough to fight the corner for green lanes. I have no doubt there will be lots of ramblers there trying to close every potential green lane in these areas. According to the article there are details on the Bolton council web site. If anyone knows any GLASS member that can get involved or wants to get involved can they mention this post? I think this is the link http://www.bolton.gov.uk/website/pages/Countrysidelocalaccessforum.aspx?bid=2660
  6. I have an early 90 on coils. Stripped front axles following Les's excellent article in tech archive. When I removed the drive flange lots of oil poured out so I presume the seal at the back of the stub axle is leaking? No problems with strip down (gob-macked reading some of the horror stories about corroded nuts, etc.) but need some help with the stub axle. Can I replace the rear oil seal on the stub axle with the needle roller bearing in place? How do I get the needle roller bearing out? If I take it out will I be able to put it back or will it need replacing (seems to be in good condition)? Can anyone tell me where to find the main axle part number (I realise that I may have a 'hybrid' axle built from parts off different date axles)? PS: Will also replace hub oil seals although they seem to be OK and the bearings are OK as well. Thanks, Graham Sorry forgot to add that swivel hub is Railko type so expected to see phospher bronze bush at back of stub axle (not needle roller). Is this a possible upgrade or can I expect to find more differences from the original axle? (10 splines on diff end of half shaft with 24 splines on outer end of CV joint - not pulled CV from shaft as it seems to be in good nick also.
  7. Thanks Les - great advice as always. Pat (Professor?) thanks very much for your offer - can't PM you as my email client is on the blink. Unfortunately I am up in wet and windy Lancashire so too far away as the only option for collection is the 90 and that's (still) off the road and will be for some time. Last owner went through some quite deep muddy stuff so I think I had better check out the timing cover but when it was running it seemed to be OK. For now I'll put all my efforts to get back on the road and then have some fun in it - then I might look to getting a 200tdi conversion - if SWMBO agrees
  8. Done several searches on the forum and found lots of advice on this subject but I am still confused My truck is '84 90 with Sherpa lump fitted. This all stared because I have just replaced wading breather pipes to gearbox, trannie and axles and was looking for the wading plug holes. Found the clutch housing one no problem but can't see the one for timing cover. I read on here that Sherpa no good for wading due to timing cover not being water proof. Read also about other differences in timing gear, housing and injector pump (Les Henson says it is the same but Frida T says they are different). Engine swap was done before I got the truck (from 2.25 diesel) so timing cover may have been changed to defender one by previous owner. So my problem is how do I tell which timing cover has been used and can the sherpa cover be made waterproof by using RTV sealer or is it not that simple? A photo of a LR 2.5NA cover and a sherpa cover would be very helpful. If I have to go for the LR cover, then can anyone give a definitive answer on the differences and help with part numbers? Also anyone have any used LR 2.5NA bits they can sell cheap? Finally am I right in thinking the 12J engine is the LR 2.5NA, 15J is the sherpa lump and 19J is the LR 2.5TD engine?
  9. Thanks or all the advice. Bought separate parts from LR Series today. What seems like lots of very low cost itmes soon add up!! Just got the pleasure if doing the job when the parts arrive
  10. 1984 LR90 with leaking LH swivel. Does not seem to be too much play and the balls are not pitted. Looking to buy swivel seal repair kit from MM4x4, Mail Order 4x4, LRSeries, etc. Which is best buy - Bearmach or Britpart? I know best buy is OEM but a) being lazy, b) can't afford it, c) SWMBO won't let me spend it!, d) hardly use the truck - not many green lanes in Lancashire
  11. Thanks all for your advice - went out and bought one today - and a nut runner and cut off saw - and a regulator/oiler - bit more than £13 spent!!
  12. wots the view on Aldi air impact wrench for occasional use? Worth £13?
  13. Stuntman - did you see my reply to your earlier post? If I can get this link to work then this was the post - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52011 This picture looks similar to the old switch on my 1984 90. The terminal numbers I gave in the post are off the back of my switch. I removed it from the truck and then connected it to a battery and bulb so I could check the output on the switch positions. You could do the same to check the terminal output/numbers are correct and corespond to the list I gave. Once you know what terminal is permanent live, ignition fed live and 'spring loaded' feed (to starter) it is quite easy to identify the right wires from yor wiring diagram. If still struggling what age/model truck and what colour wires have you got at the steering column switch position?
  14. I had the full loom out of my 1984 90. It was a replacement by someone else using a newer truck loom but there were mucked up wires all over the place so I decided to strip it out, separate the loom and then re-build it getting rid of any surplus wires. Bulkhead to rear section easy to get out - more difficult to get back through the chassis - I didn't bother - fitted some external cable protection and cable tied to the top of the chassis rail. Front section from b/head to lights also easy to remove. More time consuming is loom from instruments/column to fuse box and through bulkhead - lots of dash has to come out. Not a problem for me as I am doing the "routine defender repair" - start on one job (wipers), then go onto next and before you know it all the dash is out, the floors up, tranny oil replaced, etc One day it will be on the road again What I did find is that most of the electrical problems came from corroded connectors so I have done a lot of replacement of these as well.
  15. Not sure if this is same or not. My defender is a 1984 2.5NA diesel and does not have glow plug relay. I have rebuit my loom and by using a battery and test lamp have sussed out the following for my loom. Since I am not yet on the road I have not been able to fully test but what I have tested seems to be OK. Terminal 5 = Brown cable thick - main feed from altenator Terminal 1 = white cable - Ignition feed to fuse box Terminal 2 = Brown/Red cable thick - to glow plugs (non-relay type wiring) Terminal 3 = White/orange cable - to ignition fuse no 4 then to heater blower motor and to white cable that goes to the fule shut off valve Terminal 4 = white/red cable - to starter motor relay and to brake check relay. I have done some 'reduction' in wires as my loom was from a later truck (not installed by me) and I have simplified it so there may be some differences in colours and final destination. Hope this is of help
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